YVR has some nice architecture and interesting decor, but its still an airport. As for how it stacks up against other airports, fairly well, it won best airport in North America a couple years in a row, but as for my experiences with it, flying that time of night, sometimes they have disastrous line times at customs and security on the way out.
Take the three hour thing seriously (That is to say, arrive at the airport 3 hours prior to your flight), im the type of flyer that always shows up 1 hour before my flight leaves and have never had a problem, but if i'm flying out of YVR i always take care to book an early morning or late night flight to avoid the line.
It's not horrendous or anything either, dont get me wrong, if you're there at the suggested time you will not miss your flight, so don't worry about getting there any earlier than recommended, just be sure to follow those guidelines for this particular airport.