TTL vs non-TTL

[My2Girls66]

I have an SB24 Nikon flash from my N8008 and my N80. It will work on my D50but not on the TTL setting- the rest of the settings work. How big a deal is this? Is it worth buying an SB600 or 800 for TTL feature?

 

[MarkBarbieri]

I'm not familiar with the particulars of your situation, but I can tell the difference between TTL and non-TTL metering. TTL stands for "Through The Lens." TTL flash metering works by having the camera do a meter reading, do a quick pre-flash and metering that, figuring out how bright the flash should be and adjusting it, and then firing the main flash. It happens so fast that you don't realize that the flash has flashed twice.

If you don't have TTL, it probably means that you'll have to set your flash levels manually. That's not that hard if you have light meter and a bit of time. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a non-TTL flash unless it was something like a studio strobe.

 

[My2Girls66]

Thanks. I was hoping to save a few $100 on a flash. I've just been using my onboard flash these past 2+ yrs that I've had my D50 with decent results. I bought my N80 because it has an onboard flash, I hated carrying a flash unit on my N8008 but am now finding it would be nice to have that better flash option. The SB24 has auto and manual that work with my D50, with a little practice I might be able to do the adjusting but it looks like the SB600 or 800 would be much easier- less thinking involved
Thanks again

 

[The Grays]

Some of the other things are the metering patterns that the camera can do with the flashflash and how it can communicte with the camera for some more difficult lighting situations. You will not get those features.

 

[MarkBarbieri]

I hate to sound negative, but the onboard flash on every camera that I've seen is very close to being useless. They can help when you absolutely must have the extra light and don't need a good looking picture, but they make everything ugly.

A good flash should be TTL, bouncable, and far from your lens.

 

[My2Girls66]

Mine is bouncable, far from the lens but missing the TTL part unless I go back to my N80
Oh well. Something else to add to my list of wants

 

[Geoff_M]

I have an SB24 Nikon flash from my N8008 and my N80. It will work on my D50but not on the TTL setting- the rest of the settings work. How big a deal is this? Is it worth buying an SB600 or 800 for TTL feature?

I own a SB-24 from the days when my primary body was an F4s. Film TTL and digital TTL systems work "night and day" different. The biggest difference being when the "pre-flash" happens.

I haven't used my SB-24 for any digital on-camera work (I use it on a light stand as a remote flash that fires at full power). When you put an SB-24 on a dSLR the best you can do is "auto" mode. Basically this means that the speedlight will have to use the little light sensor on the front of the flash to determine when to turn off the flash. It'll not likely be near as good as TTL, but better than the other option.... manual mode. "Auto" mode also might not provide very good results due to the fact that dSLR sensors have an exposure latitude that's more like slide film than negative film (where you could get away with more over/under exposure).

Give it a try, but I think you'll find an SB-600 or 800 to be a welcome addition.

 

[pjacobi]

I would be very, very careful about using older flash units on modern dSLR cameras. Older flash units were triggered by a high voltage mechanical trigger. If used on modern dSLR, the high voltage could fry all the low voltage electronics inside the digital camera.

Verify compatibility before use!


-Paul

 

[Geoff_M]

The D50 User's Manual lists the SB-24 as being a compatible flash unit. Link, Page 111