This week I'm working on... (now with a page 1 directory)

Goofster, do you have your camera on Auto ISO? I noticed your first photo shows ISO 1000 Aperture priority, and the 2nd photo shows ISO 200 and undefined exposure setting. :confused3

Wow, great catch, and to be honest I'm not sure. I know when I took the pictures, I had the camera set on Aperture Priority, and that I didn't change anything manually. All I did was take the first shot, go into the other room set the AE - lock on the sunlight, then return and take the second shot with the AE - lock button still held down. Why the settings are all changed I'm not sure.

After seeing what you mentioned, I went back to my saved folder with the original shots, and sure enough the info is different for the 2 pictures. It got me thinking that perhaps I submitted the wrong shot, but I can't find any other shot like it in my original folder (I keep my shots organized by days). In the other examples I took (in their original folders), the EXT info stays the same. So again, to be honest I'm really not sure.
Unless the camera automatically changed the settings (which I wouldn't think it would change all of that, especially in a non-Auto mode), the only other thing that I can think of is that perhaps I somehow erased the original second picture, and thought that the one I submitted (taken at different settings) was the second shot. I don't know why I would, and I honestly don't remember taking the same shot at different settings, but I guess that might be a possibility. Normally I keep better record of my shots, but because these were more test shots than anything else, I wasn't really keeping good info on them. Unfortunately I also reformatted my SD card about a week ago, and those original shots are no longer on the card either.

I wish I had a better answer for you, but I'm as confused as you are to what happened. Maybe somebody else here can offer a better answer (besides the fact that senility on my part is setting in). But again, good catch.
 
Wow, great catch, and to be honest I'm not sure. I know when I took the pictures, I had the camera set on Aperture Priority, and that I didn't change anything manually. All I did was take the first shot, go into the other room set the AE - lock on the sunlight, then return and take the second shot with the AE - lock button still held down. Why the settings are all changed I'm not sure.

After seeing what you mentioned, I went back to my saved folder with the original shots, and sure enough the info is different for the 2 pictures. It got me thinking that perhaps I submitted the wrong shot, but I can't find any other shot like it in my original folder (I keep my shots organized by days). In the other examples I took (in their original folders), the EXT info stays the same. So again, to be honest I'm really not sure.
Unless the camera automatically changed the settings (which I wouldn't think it would change all of that, especially in a non-Auto mode), the only other thing that I can think of is that perhaps I somehow erased the original second picture, and thought that the one I submitted (taken at different settings) was the second shot. I don't know why I would, and I honestly don't remember taking the same shot at different settings, but I guess that might be a possibility. Normally I keep better record of my shots, but because these were more test shots than anything else, I wasn't really keeping good info on them. Unfortunately I also reformatted my SD card about a week ago, and those original shots are no longer on the card either.

I wish I had a better answer for you, but I'm as confused as you are to what happened. Maybe somebody else here can offer a better answer (besides the fact that senility on my part is setting in). But again, good catch.

Sorry I hope I didn't offend you or anything like that. It wasn't my intention. I was just wondering if Auto ISO was on or maybe your camera got switched to another mode. I've done the Auto ISO thing on dark rides and forgotten to turn it off after --not good in broad daylight! :scared: :laughing: I wonder if the AE lock thing changes ISO too?:confused3 It did stop down your aperture and shutter speed...
 
Sorry I hope I didn't offend you or anything like that. It wasn't my intention. I was just wondering if Auto ISO was on or maybe your camera got switched to another mode. I've done the Auto ISO thing on dark rides and forgotten to turn it off after --not good in broad daylight! :scared: :laughing: I wonder if the AE lock thing changes ISO too?:confused3 It did stop down your aperture and shutter speed...

No, no offense taken in the least bit. I appreciate your question (the part about my senility was just a joke - at least I hope so :thumbsup2). I want to know what happened as well. I know in the other test shots I took the camera never changed much of anything, but in these two shots, all the info seems to be changed. So unless I did take more than the two shots (which again, I don't remember doing, and can't seem to find any originals of them) or I somehow did change the settings (which I also really don't remember doing) I really don't know why the info is so different.
 
Canyou give us a tutorial? I'd love to learn how to do HDR in CS3. Thanks!

Piece of cake.

Open all of the pictures you want to merge in CS3.
Click File-Automate-Merge to HDR-Add Open Files
Adjust to your liking!

Forgot to add.....

To save it as Jpeg you need to convert it over from the 32 bit image you created to 8bit
Click on Image-Mode-8bit/Channel
 

Piece of cake.

Open all of the pictures you want to merge in CS3.
Click File-Automate-Merge to HDR-Add Open Files
Adjust to your liking!

Forgot to add.....

To save it as Jpeg you need to convert it over from the 32 bit image you created to 8bit
Click on Image-Mode-8bit/Channel
One more question, are you opening RAW files or JPEGs? I think I'm a little confused. :confused3 I'm guessing you must be working on JPEGs?
 
This week instead of tackling something new, I thought I'd do some more experimenting (and hopefully learning) of things I've already been working on.

Some of the best HDR images I've seen were actually taken indoors (there was one posted around Christmas time that was just amazing). So I thought I'd try some indoor HDR shots as well. Even though what I've taken so far is no where close to some of the thing I've seen, I did notice that HDR shots can add some really neat looking depth to an inside shot.
Here are a few examples:

regular (not under or over exposed) shot:
08.jpg


HDR merged shot:
08a.jpg


regular shot:
13.jpg


HDR shot:
13a.jpg


I really like the way the second kitchen shot came out. It has an almost painting like look to it.

If anybody else has any indoor HDR shots, or any advice or suggestions, I would love to see / hear them.

Tomorrow I hope to post some more examples of Auto Exposure lock shots.
 
So help me out. Is HDR something you have to have as a feature on your camera, or is it something you do in PP????
 
So help me out. Is HDR something you have to have as a feature on your camera, or is it something you do in PP????

Kind of yes and no. Many of the newer DSLR cameras offer a feature called exposure bracketing, that allows you to take 3 (possibly more) shots in a row all at different exposure settings (which you can set). So all you have to do, is select that bracketing option on your camera, and you can take 3 quick shots at different exposure settings. If your camera doesn't offer this feature (for example, I don't believe the Nikon D3000 offers it, whereas the D5000 does), you can still do an HDR shot, but you would need to manually change the exposure between each shot (not necessarily a hard thing to do, but it does take a bit longer, which can make a big difference with cloud movement for example).
The other thing that you have to have is a program that works with HDR shots. I use Corel paint Shop Pro Ultimate X2. Many of the better photo editing programs do have some kind of HDR feature now, the difference I think is just how much editing that they allow you to do. Corel, for example, has very basic HDR editing. I believe some of the others give you many more HDR editing options.
So as long as you have an editing program that allows for HDR shots, you can give it a try (even if your camera doesn't have the easier bracketing feature).
 
Thanks for clearing that up for me. My Xsi does have exposure bracketing, so it sounds like I should be able to get there!
 
Thanks for clearing that up for me. My Xsi does have exposure bracketing, so it sounds like I should be able to get there!

Yep, the XSi has exposure bracketing. You can set it to go up to -2, 0, +2. If you want more than 3 shots, you'll have to set it up manually.
 
Piece of cake.

Open all of the pictures you want to merge in CS3.
Click File-Automate-Merge to HDR-Add Open Files
Adjust to your liking!

Forgot to add.....

To save it as Jpeg you need to convert it over from the 32 bit image you created to 8bit
Click on Image-Mode-8bit/Channel

One more question, are you opening RAW files or JPEGs? I think I'm a little confused. :confused3 I'm guessing you must be working on JPEGs?

NateNLogansDad - are you opening JPEGS or RAW files, and then merging them? :confused3
 
To further test AE; I'd suggest going outside and locking onto a different subject from right where you're standing. I only say this because you'll hardly ever have the opportunity to go into another room and just meter off of what you want to. It'll also help for those moments you have to do some fast shooting. You'll just become accustomed to being aware of your surroundings.... light-wise. :thumbsup2

Thanks for the great advice. I went ahead and tried it out (sticking with my goal for the week to do some more experimenting with past goals). I metered my light off of a house (that was a just off to the side, and had the sun shining on it) and used that exposure setting to help get the effect I wanted. It only took about 3 seconds to do it. Here are a couple of shots I took (on a somewhat bright day) using AE - lock:

aelock02.jpg


aelock01.jpg
 
I am loving this thread. You are helping me learn more about the functions of my camera. THANKS, Goofster!
 
Unfortunately this week I haven't had much of a chance to use my camera, but I did want to at least do something new, so today I played around a bit with the White Balance Bracketing feature.
Unlike Exposure bracketing, WB bracketing doesn't give you the option of choosing the WB settings (at least on my Nikon D5000). It has 3 WB presets that you can choose from (WB1, WB2, and WB3) when using the bracketing feature. From what I can understand from the manual the bracketing changes the amount of amber and blue that the camera uses to expose the shot. I tried it out quite a few times on both outside and inside shots, and to be honest I really didn't see all that much of a difference. The WB3 did give the most difference, but even that wasn't all that noticeable. Here are a couple of examples of WB3 bracketing:

normal:
DSC_0619.jpg


added amber:
DSC_0620.jpg


added blue:
DSC_0621.jpg


and inside
Normal:
DSC_0703.jpg


added amber:
DSC_0704.jpg


added blue:
DSC_0705-1.jpg


As you can see, there's not really a whole lot of difference to be seen (and this seemed to be true on all the experiments I took).

Also, unlike AE bracketing, you only have to take 1 picture, and the camera automatically records 3 different shots at the different WB settings.

So I guess my question would be when would you use something like this. Is it more for trying to get a fine-tuned shot at just the right WB setting? I really don't see enough of a difference to use it on a regular basis (unlike the AE bracketing that can give you a much greater difference).
 
I'm really excited to try some new stuff;) I was reading about AE lock yesterday, I am going to watch the video and try and play a little!

Thanks for sharing!!!
 
Yep, the XSi has exposure bracketing. You can set it to go up to -2, 0, +2. If you want more than 3 shots, you'll have to set it up manually.

There is a work-around, sort of. Set the camera for bracketing +/- 2 stops then set exposure compensation to -2 and take the three exposures. Now set exposure compensation to +2 and take three more. Five of the exposures will be at -4, -2, 0, +2, +4, and two of the six exposures will be identical so leave one of those out of the HDR set.

If we want more than 5 exposures we are doomed to use manual! ;) Fortunately the base dynamic range plus the extra 8 stops of HDR will almost always be enough to cover the full range of a scene. I used this technique to photograph a black steam locomotive on a sunny day, there was some real dynamic range in that scene!

1218_2452_0_1.jpg
 
Wow, that's an incredible shot Bob. What I like about it is that you could never tell that it is an HDR merged shot.

This evening offered a nice chance to get a few more neat looking HDR merged shots (far from very realistic looking, but kind of neat nonetheless).

hdr03a.jpg


hdr05a.jpg


hdr09a.jpg
 
Hey Goof, I'm at work with some free time. I have the camera but no book. How do you set up the White Balance Bracketing? :confused3
 


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