Team Picture Question

[PoohJen]

Hi Everyone!
Can you give me an idea how best to take a "team picture" - both automatic and manual settings?

On auto, I have been trying the landscape/mountain setting, b/c in my twisted rationalization I thought the whole team would come out in focus. Actually, I find it to be too soft (is that the right word?).

Figure 12-14 people standing/kneeling close together in 2 rows. How can I get the sharpest focus shot?

State Championships this weekend - Go Bombers!!!!

 

[MICKEY88]

Hi Everyone!
Can you give me an idea how best to take a "team picture" - both automatic and manual settings?

On auto, I have been trying the landscape/mountain setting, b/c in my twisted rationalization I thought the whole team would come out in focus. Actually, I find it to be too soft (is that the right word?).

Figure 12-14 people standing/kneeling close together in 2 rows. How can I get the sharpest focus shot?

State Championships this weekend - Go Bombers!!!!

indoors, outdoors,,lighting conditions


I'd start with aperture priority, at f8

 

[PoohJen]

indoors, outdoors,,lighting conditions

I'd start with aperture priority, at f8

Thanks Mickey - I wasn't thinking specifics! Good call!

This will be outside, daylight. However, evening/dark info will be helpful too, as these tournaments often end after dark!

Can you explain (i.e., dumb it down for me) how AP f8 works to bring the whole frame in focus?

TIA!

 

[MICKEY88]

Thanks Mickey - I wasn't thinking specifics! Good call!

This will be outside, daylight. However, evening/dark info will be helpful too, as these tournaments often end after dark!

Can you explain (i.e., dumb it down for me) how AP f8 works to bring the whole frame in focus?

TIA!

f8 gives you more depth of field, if it's sunny you could go to f11 or f16, but f8 should be plenty for 2 rows of people..

getting into evening/night gets trickier, you'd want a wider aperture to let in more light, or a longer shutter speed...flash or no flash.?

 

[zackiedawg]

What camera? If it is a DSLR, then the afformentioned F8 recommendation in daylight should be OK - even up to F11-12 or so. But if it's a P&S camera, F8 is likely the minimum aperture, which would be too small and result in some softness from diffraction. If it's a P&S model, stay in the F4.5-6.3 range for the sweet spot.

Focus using the center-weighted or spot focus area, so you can point at one particular face at the proper distance...all of the other faces should be in focus too since the depth of field will be wider.

Stay back far enough to avoid having anyone in the extreme left or right of the frame, where lens distortion and corner softness can impact the sharpness.

If possible, I'd stay away from the widest angle of any lens - too much lens curvature and distortion to perspective - best to zoom in just a notch or two on a zoom lens.

For evening/night, you'll need a flash unit, or high ISO, or a combination of both...and it will be a lot tougher especially with a P&S camera.

 

[PoohJen]

Thanks all! I can't believe how much info I left out of my question - I was posting at work and in a rush.

Camera is Canon 40D, probably use the kit lens (Canon 28-135IS).

I'll study your answers, get out my 40D book, and try to figure out how to achieve the suggested settings!