Shutter issues ?

[tazdev3225]

I think the shutter is my issue. I bought a new Sony A-550 in June and loved using it all summer. I just came back from WDW and at one point wanted to throw it against a wall. I know there are issues on dark rides with pics. I expect that but have had several P&S's and an A-300 on trips with no problems. This camera WILL NOT shoot in low light situations. Actually was bruising my finger trying to get the camera to take a shot. I switched to my 50mm f1/8 and still could not take a pic with the camera. I also had a few pics where I was using flash and the image came out half with flash and half dark. I have class 10 SD cards for it but did back up with an older Pro Duo. One feature I really liked was the dual memory card slot. I had problems with both media.

I am heading back to Disney in less than 5 weeks and only want to take 1 camera this trip as it is a fast one and other than this the camera is great. Any ideas what the issue could be or should I just take it back to the camera store (not a Best Buy store) and have them send it out for an overhaul.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Bstanley]

I have a Canon not a Sony - but on my camera (the switch is on the lens actually) if the Focus is set to 'Auto' (vs manual) the camera will not fire if it can't lock focus. I ended up shooting with manual focus on several of the dark rides because of that (I was using a 50mm f1.8 lens). It seemed like I could set the focus faster than the camera in those challenging lighting conditions - I'm planning to upgrade from an XS to a 60D before our Christmas trip to (hopefully) help out with that issue.

 

[GrumpyGoat]

I have a Canon not a Sony - but on my camera (the switch is on the lens actually) if the Focus is set to 'Auto' (vs manual) the camera will not fire if it can't lock focus. I ended up shooting with manual focus on several of the dark rides because of that (I was using a 50mm f1.8 lens). It seemed like I could set the focus faster than the camera in those challenging lighting conditions - I'm planning to upgrade from an XS to a 60D before our Christmas trip to (hopefully) help out with that issue.

That's probably the issue with the first problem you're having. The camera is having difficulty focusing in the low light and won't shoot if it isn't focused. I can't speak to exactly how the Sony functions, but I know Canon cameras won't shoot if focus isn't locked when set to One-Shot AF.

As far as the second issue of a half dark image when shooting with flash... Were you using the camera's built-in flash or a flash on the hot shoe? If it was a shoe flash, was it a Sony or specifically designed for that camera?

Every camera has a specific flash "sync speed" at which the shutter is fully open when the flash fires. If you exceeded this shutter speed, then the shutter wasn't fully open when the flash fired, giving you an image that is only half exposed. Most flashes that are "dedicated" for a particular camera will normally force the camera to change to the proper shutter speed automatically.

It is very likely there is nothing wrong with your camera and all you need to do is study up on it some more. There is a steep learning curve involved with moving from a P&S to a DSLR, especially if you have limited experience with SLR type cameras.

I hope this helps...

 

[JoeDif]

Your flash issue sounds like a flash sync issue. Most cameras have a maximum 1/200 to 1/250 shutter speed max for flash. Anthing above that, say 1/500, will give you that black bar in your images.

What mode do you shoot in when using your flash?

 

[zackiedawg]

Everyone's guess is likely right - you're running into an issue where the camera isn't able to focus, and in Single AF mode, it won't trigger the shutter unless it can focus lock.

I shoot with an A550 for years now, and have no problems with dark ride shots - some may have to do with how you set up the camera, and some is technique.

First, if you're in "auto" aka 'green box' mode, get off it. It doesn't allow you to change anything. Go to at least P (program auto) mode, so you can change some of the settings.

Second, in the 'focus area', choose 'spot' rather than wide. Wide will hunt all over the frame figuring out a place to focus on, whereas spot only looks in the center point where you point the camera. You can use AF-S mode...but lens-wise, use your fastest lens and make sure the camera is using the max aperture - if in doubt, switch to Aperture Priority mode and set it yourself. You'll likely need ISO3200 or so on many dark rides - if you are having trouble seeing the scene through the viewfinder, switch to quick live view, as the screen will gain up in low light to help you see the scene - just make sure you're not bothering anyone behind you.

The technique for low light focusing is to find a spot in the scene that has some contrast - light and dark together. Obviously on a dark ride, the first and most obvious method is to find a point of light somewhere in the dark scene - a light bulb, a highlight on a character face, a wall or post or flower or tree which is illuminated, etc. Point the spot focus point at that object, and HALF-PRESS the shutter and hold it - that will lock the focus and give you confirmation - then you can quickly recompose the scene to shoot what you want to shoot, and fully press the shutter to finish the shot.

If a problem still, then maybe the scene is simply too dark for the camera's AF system to handle - there are some scenes so dark that DSLRs simply cannot focus on - in which case you can switch to Manual focus (the switch to the lower left of the lens mount) and focus yourself - in Manual focus mode, the shutter is free to fire any time you press it, regardless of whether you're in focus or not. When manually focusing, the camera's focus indicator will still indicate if it thinks you've gotten focus - so when there is just enough light for it to determine focus, it will let you know when you're in focus.

 

[thomas998]

I've tried using a Sony dslr on the dark rides and if you try to auto-focus it wont work worth a flip... it did just like you said it would not shoot. The answer was what you've already heard, if it doen't focus it doesn't shoot.

The answer for those dark rides is to go to full manual, not just focus but also manual speed and ap. Then before you get on the ride aim at something you can see very clearing about the same distance as what you'll be shooting inside and get your focus set up before you even get on. Use the lens wide open and set your speed to 1/80, as soon as you get in there take some shots and then try to change your ISO to get the best results. If you let the camera set any of the controls it will tend to make the blacks more grey because it is doesn't know your shooting a mostly black scene.

 

[zackiedawg]

I've tried using a Sony dslr on the dark rides and if you try to auto-focus it wont work worth a flip... it did just like you said it would not shoot. The answer was what you've already heard, if it doen't focus it doesn't shoot.

Actually, this too is likely a settings issue and/or lens issue. As I noted above, I've autofocused with two seperate Sony DSLR bodies on dark rides for 3 years now, without a problem. It's all a matter of the right settings and technique. I have shot on the very darkest of dark rides with my A300 and A550, and both have achieved autofocus on the first try and in well under 1/2 second. It helps that I've been doing night and dark photography for 20 years, so I've gotten the technique down well.

 

[thomas998]

Actually, this too is likely a settings issue and/or lens issue. As I noted above, I've autofocused with two seperate Sony DSLR bodies on dark rides for 3 years now, without a problem. It's all a matter of the right settings and technique. I have shot on the very darkest of dark rides with my A300 and A550, and both have achieved autofocus on the first try and in well under 1/2 second. It helps that I've been doing night and dark photography for 20 years, so I've gotten the technique down well.

Were you using your auto-focus assist light on? Without the assist light I don't know how you could focus on some of the dark rides.

 

[zackiedawg]

No...actually neither of my DSLRs even has one! I've found the key to low light focusing with autofocus systems are the following: First, you really do need a fast lens - F1.4-F1.8 is a good range, but of course you probably need one of those to realistically even get a shot in a dark ride. So I'll assume you already have that!

Set the camera to spot focus mode, rather than multi or center. This will let you designate the center point only as the area to focus on. Set the aperture wide open, or close to it. Set the focus mode on AF-S - single focus, rather than continuous. Then, simply look for a point of light or contrast in the scene, and point the spot focus indicator right at that point. Half-press to focus, get the green confirmation of focus while holding the half press, recompose, shoot. Does the trick virtually every time!

Take a look at this scene:

Where would you try to focus? The accordion is excellent - has lighter white areas with stripes of dark color - good contrast for the focus sensor to pick up. Or the guitar - that white fingerplate where it meets the guitar body. The middle guy's striped shirt. And so on - any area with a bright point of light, or with a strong light/dark line of contrast can be found by the camera's focus sensor.

Here:

The auction sign is perfect...will do it every time. Or, the redhead's face or neckline - where the white lace meets the red dress, or red hair frames the very brightly lit face.

Even very dark scenes:

The undertaker's lantern, the light reflection on the shovel handle, or the man's illuminated face is often enough for the focus system to grab.

Here:

It was light reflections on the Roman soldier's armor against the dark leather.

Here:

The bolo tie of the man at the desk, or the edge of the pad against the dark background in the man's hand, or the bearded man's white collar, will all do the trick.

Note: some of those aren't the cleanest examples of dark ride photos, as I took some of those as 'samples' when I got my camera, to show the JPG high ISO performance straight from the camera - so there's no noise reduction applied and they aren't processed from RAW. I'm using them here as examples of how and where to focus on dark rides so that you can autofocus reliably with a Sony DSLR, and in fact any DSLR camera.

 

[KAT4DISNEY]

Were you using your auto-focus assist light on? Without the assist light I don't know how you could focus on some of the dark rides.

I agree with Justin on the settings. I've shot dark rides with the Sony A700, A850, A550 and A55 and not had any issue beyond what any camera can in those conditions. If I have problems it's because I've had my camera set specifically for something else and didn't change the settings before the ride.

Depending on the ride (or just what I feel like using) I will use either A mode or S mode, spot or local focus and I also use spot metering. I've never gone full manual to shoot a dark ride. I also will set the ISO at 1600 or 3200 depending on the darkness of the ride.

I may use the auto focus assist light or not - depending on the ride and if it would interfere with the enjoyment of other guests.

And there are some situations where it is just too dark for a DSLR to focus quickly enough which is what you are experiencing when the shutter won't fire. In those cases you may have to take a crack at manual focus. I should add that can happen b/c it's just too dark or you may have the multi segment metering or wide area auto focus set and the camera then can take longer in deciding what to select and in the mean time the ride has moved on. The A700 and A850 have a setting which allows for the shutter to fire without achieving focus lock but I think that was not included on the A550 (and it's not a setting a person really wants to use too often anyway).

 

[zackiedawg]

You're right Kathy - release w/o focus lock was removed on the A300 through A550 - though release w/o lens cameras like the A580 and I think the A55 allow shoot priority rather than focus priority. As you said though, not too much need for a camera that will shoot without achieving focus in autofocus mode - better at that point to switch to manual focus and get it right!

 

[thomas998]

Will have to try that next time. I never went to so far as trying to set it to center focus, after the first attempt when it just searched in vain for a focus I simply started skipping all the auto functions and went to full manual. Figured I knew what I wanted even if the camera didn't.

 

[tazdev3225]

Thanks everyone for the responses and dialogue. I am going to have to read the books and experiment some more. I actually played around a little and have figured out the manual focus. Now to find out how to spot focus. I really love the camera when I get it (or me) to work right.

Zackiedawg thanks for the examples. I managed to get a few decent pics, not nearly as good as yours though.

I still haven't figured out the problem with the flash pics and they were using the built in flash on auto mode. If I ever get my accounts to work I'll post examples.

 

[KAT4DISNEY]

I still haven't figured out the problem with the flash pics and they were using the built in flash on auto mode. If I ever get my accounts to work I'll post examples.

Did all your flash pictures have the same problem? What half of the pictures with the flash were dark and what lens and focal length were you using? The built in flash doesn't pop up very high and you can easily get shadows from a lens hood or an extended lens.

 

[tazdev3225]

Did all your flash pictures have the same problem? What half of the pictures with the flash were dark and what lens and focal length were you using? The built in flash doesn't pop up very high and you can easily get shadows from a lens hood or an extended lens.

This is one of the pics

I believe the lens was my 18mm to 55mm. The focal lenth was 26mm and I shot in Auto. It was late and I was tired. I also tend to shoot flash pics in Auto mode for some reason.

I sort of knew as soon as I took the pic that there would be a problem because it didn't seem to want to shoot. It's hard to believe that I used a 35mm camera for 30 years and the digital is giving me such a hard time understanding. I am sure that I am doing something wrong, just don't know what.

 

[zackiedawg]

That's about the strangest flash shadow pattern I've seen! Doesn't look like a lens hood shadow for sure, but it also seems oddly ragged and variable for a synch shadow. I wonder if there could be another issue with the flash altogether - one of the LEDs out, or LED out plus bad synch speed? It's a strange one to be truthful - I can't put my finger on it. I basically have never used my built-in flash - I generally avoid flash whenever I can, and if I do need it, I use a hotshoe mounted flash. If you foresee using flash often, you might consider picking up an external flash unit, like you did back in the film days!

 

[tazdev3225]

That's about the strangest flash shadow pattern I've seen! Doesn't look like a lens hood shadow for sure, but it also seems oddly ragged and variable for a synch shadow. I wonder if there could be another issue with the flash altogether - one of the LEDs out, or LED out plus bad synch speed? It's a strange one to be truthful - I can't put my finger on it. I basically have never used my built-in flash - I generally avoid flash whenever I can, and if I do need it, I use a hotshoe mounted flash. If you foresee using flash often, you might consider picking up an external flash unit, like you did back in the film days!

Looks like I may be taking it back to the camera store for a check-up, with a print of the pic. I actually try not to use the flash but sometimes forget to turn it off. I do have a hotshoe mounted flash so I will be using that when I need it. Thanks for the input.