Question for people who sew

[Juliah]

I found a cotton skirt online that I really like, but then I saw that it was almost $100. Well, that's not happening! The more I looked at the skirt, though, I realized it was pretty simple, with an elastic waist. I decided to dust off my sewing machine and try making something like it.

I'm not a beginner--I used to sew quite a bit when my kids were little--but it's been many years. I got an easy pattern, but now I'm stumped on which size to use out of it. I have gained weight since I used to sew for myself and recently lost some of the weight. I measured my waist and checked the chart on the pattern envelope, and it shows I would be 3-4 sizes bigger than my read-to-wear size! Can that be right? I recall from when I used to sew that I actually bought patterns a size *smaller* than my regular size. But, as I said, that was many years ago, and perhaps the sizing has changed.

For those of you who sew a lot for yourself, how does your pattern size compare with the size you buy in stores?

 

[Costumesaremylife]

Pattern sizes for women are very strange. Buy the bigger pattern that is totally not your size, and get a cheap cotton that won't bug you if you mess up and make the skirt. Make sure you get a friend to help you when it needs to be fit. It's hard to pin yourself and make sure the hem is straight.

Once you've made one, and learned any changes you'd like to make then you can sew up a million of them!

 

[clm10308]

I haven't done much sewing in several years, but if you get one of the patens that covers a range of sizes, then you can use the pattern pieces to decide which size would be best. You can always adjust between sizes if needed.

 

[MichelleinMaine]

Pattern sizes have nothing to do with ready made sizes. (And, say, Butterick's pattern sizes, often have nothing to do with, say, Simplicity pattern sizes.) I find the whole thing a crap shoot. Yes, buy the size the measurements say to buy.

FYI- Joann's fabric has at least one company's patterns on sale for a $1 every other week almost (and definately on holidays.) SIgn up for their flyers too, always have a 40% off coupon in them.

 

[Taja]

Fitting is the most important step in garment sewing, and the one people rarely take the time to do correctly. Then they wonder why garments don't fit!

Measurements and samples are your friends. You don't have to share them with anyone--it's between you, your pattern and your garments! Although, it's good if you can have a friend help you with your measurements. It's a bit more accurate.

Essential measurements: bust, waist, hips and back neck length. That last one sounds strange, doesn't it? It's just a length measurement from the bone at the base of your neck to your natural waistline--a good one for a friend to take for you! You can't measure it accurately yourself and it won't mean a thing to your friend! *LOL* If the top is completely straight without waistline definition, it may not be necessary. But it's a good measurement if you tend to be long-waisted or short-waisted--anything significantly different than the pattern measurements!

For blouses/shirts and dresses, another measurement that isn't listed on the pattern envelope--or anywhere else, to the best of my knowledge, is the front chest measurement. I'm not even sure if that is what it really is called--my mind just went blank! It is the measurement across your upper chest from arm crease to arm crease. Essentially, 14" = Size 14, increasing or decreasing the pattern size as the measurement increases or decreases by .5". So 13.5" would = Size 12 and 14.5" would = Size 16. Thanks to Nancy Zieman of Sewing with Nancy and Nancy's Notions for that little gem!

That measurement isn't critical unless you have particularly wide or narrow shoulders in relation to your bust and hip measurements. The waist measurement isn't critical for tops unless they are fitted or the waist is greater than 90% of the bust and hip measurements.

As a PP mentioned, purchase some inexpensive fabric (similar type and weight--doesn't matter if it is ugly, you can use it as a cleaning rag once you know everything fits properly) to make your sample. You can "read the wrinkles" and transfer the changes to your pattern.

Do you get the feeling I spend entirely too much time sewing? *LOL* Although I use some commercial patterns, these days I primarily design and draft the patterns I use.

Speaking of patterns, they are expensive these days! Hobby Lobby just had McCall's patterns on sale last week for 99 cents each (they range from about $10 to $20 each regular price). As a PP noted, JoAnn's frequently has one brand or another on sale for about the same price at least once a month. The brands most frequently on sale are McCall's and Simplicity. Most of the other brands rarely are on sale--but I'm not always looking, either! Sign up for emails from both JoAnn and Hobby Lobby (if there is a Hobby Lobby in your area--they're fairly new here, but have been in other parts of the country for years). And Hobby Lobby's patterns always are 40% discount. They do carry limited brands, though.

You asked a simple question and I provided a dissertation!

Edited to add:

Have no idea why, but I read skirt as shirt. I think I was up too late sewing last night! *LOL*

No magical measurements there, but you will need waist and hip measurements at the very least. Hip length measurement (distance from natural waistline to fullest part of hip) is needed if skirt is at all fitted. Don't use the standard 8" to 10"--or whatever the pattern says. Everyone is different. You can use an existing garment to measure for the length.

 

[Juliah]

Wow, you guys are a wealth of information!

I had some old fabric in the closet, so I have cut that out using the size that matches the measurements--not my regular size--and I'm going to sew up a sample as several of you suggested.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help me.

 

[hipchickie]

What a great post Taja - thanks for all the info!

 

[mlittig]

Let us know how your new skirt comes out

 

[cornflake]

Pattern sizing hasn't changed - ready-to-wear sizing has changed. Vanity sizing has pushed many sizes up exponentially, and not in concert, while patterns are still based on the strict sizing methods of old.

Go with the size indicated on the pattern by the measurements.

 

[Juliah]

I finished my skirt, and I like the way it came out and how it fits. If I had a clue how to attach an image, I'd post a picture.

I'm so glad I asked my question here and took everyone's advice. You guys rock.

 

[Juliah]

I finished my skirt, and I like the way it came out and how it fits. If I had a clue how to attach an image, I'd post a picture.

I'm so glad I asked my question here and took everyone's advice. You guys rock.

Oops, don't know why this posted twice. Sorry.

 

[Taja]

Woohoo!

Congratulations!

Glad everything worked out for you!

Now you'll be sewing all of your summer skirts! *LOL*

 

[jujube]

I never go by retail sizing when buying a sewing pattern. Before I leave, I take my measurements and base it off that.

 

[Juliah]

Thanks for the encouragement, Taja. I'm already plotting my next skirt!

 

[tchrrx]

I am so glad that you posted this question. I am brand new to sewing (DD11 got a machine for Christmas). I looked at patterns for simple clothes, but couldn't figure out why nothing was available in our sizes. Now I know to look for measurements, not sizes. Thanks!