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[sayhello]

So how was the balloon ride?? The couple of pics you posted look very cool! Although 28 in one balloon?? Who knew?

Sayhello

 

[CaliforniaGirl09]

So interesting! The guide and your ship sound amazing. Not sure I'd do well with all the aggressiveness. I know it's part of the culture, but I can't stand that.

 

[AquaDame]

So how was the balloon ride?? The couple of pics you posted look very cool! Although 28 in one balloon?? Who knew?

Sayhello

It was so fun! We've never done one before so I have nothing to compare it to. I did wish we had risen higher - some balloons went higher or longer and we don't know why... it may simply be dependent on the wind doing what it will!

So interesting! The guide and your ship sound amazing. Not sure I'd do well with all the aggressiveness. I know it's part of the culture, but I can't stand that.

I can't either and I still did OK, until one specific incident in Jordan, but that is a ways off. The guides did a swell job of helping ward off the more persistent amongst them and helping folk shop also if they wanted some help navigating things. They also had a tendency to try to sell things at the doors of the busses so the guides would again step in, taking the items onboard and asking if anyone wanted the trinkets for $1-2. Lowering the pressure even by that much did wonders - many people bought things this way without the vendor getting in the way of themselves.

 

[sayhello]

It was so fun! We've never done one before so I have nothing to compare it to. I did wish we had risen higher - some balloons went higher or longer and we don't know why... it may simply be dependent on the wind doing what it will!

I'm glad it was fun! I still haven't done one, either, but it's on the bucket list!

I can't either and I still did OK, until one specific incident in Jordan, but that is a ways off. The guides did a swell job of helping ward off the more persistent amongst them and helping folk shop also if they wanted some help navigating things. They also had a tendency to try to sell things at the doors of the busses so the guides would again step in, taking the items onboard and asking if anyone wanted the trinkets for $1-2. Lowering the pressure even by that much did wonders - many people bought things this way without the vendor getting in the way of themselves.

I so do not care for bartering!! Just tell me the price, and either I want to pay that price or not!

Sayhello

 

[AquaDame]

With your entry ticket to the Valley of the Kings you are allowed to visit any of three open tombs, and there are a few more that are ALWAYS an extra fee. Our tour included Tutankhamun as ABD does too. There is a board that shows you which are open - our guides selected the three we'd do and spoke about them outside of each before we entered and of course answered any questions we came up with when we were inside also. I'd take a pic of what I wanted interpreted and Hussein would oblige every time.



Our first stop was KV2 / Ramses IV, and it had a queue outside and we moved very slowly in and around... such a different experience than Valley of the Queens! There was a worker at the sarcophagus hurrying folk along after a quick pic (and offering to let you take longer/ take the pics for you in exchange for a small "tip" of course).



KV 11 / Ramses III was next and much larger, though no less narrow on walkways. We were able to spread out more as it had more offshoots to it, and had upper and lower sections.



KV6 / Ramses IX rounded out our Ramses heavy itinerary on the included visits. We were given our tickets for Tutankhamun as we went in, and told to head there next and meet back up afterwards in a shady spot.



KV62 / Tutankhamun is soooo small comparatively! They limit the number of people in there at a time, but did a terrible job actually sending down that number... at least they WERE trying. It was a madhouse of elbows and jostling for a pic of where the sarcophagus laid. His mummy is on the other side of it now, but there is little of interest over there aside from... well, lets be honest his corpse. I will spare you that one.

Hussein is convinced he was murdered, and there is certainly compelling evidence... though his cache seems very impressive to us, it was quite small and poorly compared to what would have been expected for a pharaoh. Hussein had also shown us how his cartouche is misspelled on the box for his canopic jars. How could such a mistake have been made? It would have meant he could not find them when it was time, and so Tut would not be able to move on to the afterlife where he could squeal. So vicious..!



From here we again split off from the main group as it was time to spend some money! We had signed up for some extra tomb openings that AP arranged for us for this day. First up was KV 35 / Amenhotep II, and we were joined by three other folk on our tour for the opportunity. As is the norm, we bri... I mean tipped the staff once inside and were then allowed to take pictures. No tip? No dice. This was my favorite of the ones we paid extra for as the person working there was easy going and fun to chat with in addition to frankly being in this amazing place. When your mind is already blown, it doesn't take much to tip you over, and he had us all sit quietly in the dark next to the sarcophagus for a few minutes in meditation. Quiet as a tomb... I now know what that feels like in my bones.





Next up was KV57 / Horemheb though no one else paid the entry fee (plus tip) for this possible murder's elaborate tomb and we had the whole place to ourselves.



While we were in these tombs everyone else... waited on us. There were snacks, and it would be possible to buy a second ticket and visit more tombs but I don't think anyone did. That had been our plan if we hadn't coughed up the cost of paying for the private entries. We were here from just before 9 until noon, then it was time to head off to Hatshepsut's Temple just a couple of minutes drive away.



By now it was HOT. So hot... even to the point I started feeling a little woozy. I did not want to burn so I was stubbornly keeping my hat and long sleeve shirt and pants on as best I could but it was getting rough for me tbh. We hadn't sat down for hours since we were going tomb to tomb, but I also didn't want to drink too much water as bathrooms are few and far (and cost $ every time)... The tour guides all jostled their groups into the shrines on either side here to interpret the carvings for their folk, and there was little shade to go around.

After being shown both Hathor and Anubis, we again split off from the group, this time being the only folk who took them up on seeing the tomb of Senenmut. Perhaps we shouldn't have... as we started climbing down down down to the entrance I was not feeling very well at all, but I was looking forward to getting into the cooler air of the tomb ASAP... but that was not to be. Turns out no one had the key... or at least they had one, but when we got there found TWO locks! One gentleman ran back up to the office to try to find the second key while we plunked down in the shade, thankfully, and waited.

...and waited.

......and waited some more. He returned without a key so they went to phase 2 - break it off with a rock. BANG BANG BANG... it wouldn't budge. I had long finished my water and was thankfully starting to feel better, but it was still so hot. I was ready to bag the whole thing, and Hussein by then was on the phone arguing with folk in Arabic. Another man came with a hacksaw and they started sawing it about the time we should have been wrapping up our visit. I felt so badly for everyone waiting for us! 20 minutes then 30 went by before Hussein declared it was not happening and we tried to go. It was such a crazy scene of men arguing that they would get us in, and Hussein saying we had no time left for this. They knew if they did not get us in though they would not get our money, and so they refused to sign the paper ackowleding they could not fulfill their part of the bargain. Finally they relented and - seriously - as he went to put pen to paper yelling from the tomb that they got the lock off! Still more arguing from Hussein though as it was so late and we had no time, but they did not give him a choice and so down we went... into the tomb after all!

At the time we were so rushed I thought it was a terrible waste of money, but in the end this was Kyle's favorite and I'm glad we went. It shows the stages of creating these scenes, from sketch to inking and finally the finished areas as well. You could see where artists edited from the rough sketch to fill in their own ideas, and the ceiling is thought to be the first of its kind as a celestial calendar. We had Hussein in there all to ourselves and I could have kicked myself for knowing so little that I didn't have any good questions to ask. That was a common lament from me this whole trip...I just didn't know enough to even know what I did not know! Oh well..



Our bus then came to get the three of us and we met back up with everyone at an alabaster shop for the requisite forced shopping time. Everything was too rich for our tastes as always so we wandered around while other people spent their dollaroos and enjoyed the free hibiscus tea offered. We did not get back to the ship and lunch until around 2:30.

The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent cruising up the Nile towards the next day's activities. This was one of my favorite times, slowly sailing, passing and being passed by other river ships, enjoying the scenes on either shore. The ship held an afternoon tea on the upper deck every afternoon with small snacks and a wide selection of teas and some coffee. Between the two early mornings, packed days, late lunch, and tea, we were both pretty sleepy by 7pm so we gave in to it, and fell asleep without dinner at all, also missing a cocktail hour where they introduced the crew... whoops!

Just like that, we're already halfway through! Somehow at this point I felt like we'd be on vacation FOREVER with how many things we'd seen done already. That only lasted until we get back to Cairo in a couple days though, at which point I said it was much too short how could we be done already? So it goes...

 

[wdhinn89]

@AquaDame I am loving your review, thank you!!!

 

[AquaDame]

Day 6

Totally different pace today! During our sailing we went through a lock at night; they weren't sure what time it would be, so we couldn't have set an alarm to see that even had we wanted to. By sheer luck or perhaps vibration Kyle did wake up during it, but said the ones we'd been through in Europe were more impressive - this was a wee one.



By the time we both woke up a little before dawn we were already docked at Edfu. We toured here from just past 8 to 10am when we again boarded and continued sailing towards Kom Ombo.





Hussein once again did an excellent job on this day. He filled our heads with history of the place, while also fielding questions on the stray dogs (I guess there is an 'inside the temple' pack and an 'outside the temple' pack and boy howdy do they not get along). He also talked at length about the Sudanese refugees taking up homes here. He said that for awhile no one was totally clear on why so many made their home there specifically (could be as simple as there already were Sudanese folk there) until they realized they were being used to work the illegal gold mines outside the city. As I mentioned earlier - no topic was off limits. That is either a plus or minus depending on your POV, but I have been thinking about this over the past couple days after reading the NatGeo review from a couple years ago with fresh eyes now I've been on my trip.

I feel compelled to say something about that and the complaint that we don't talk enough about the bad... yes, I have pictures of abject poverty. But here is the thing... I have them from MANY countries. I have some gnarly pictures of the US as well. I did not find what I saw here any worse than I've seen in Caribbean countries or I've seen in SE Asia or East and South Africa. Why should I recount the horrors of what I've seen involving kids and animals in a trip report? What would that serve? Where do I draw the line and how much time do I give it? Is it not sufficient for folk to realize that yes, Egypt is not as well off as many, and to travel means seeing the world for what it is as a whole? I feel like it is. We "know" Egypts rep, that's why folk are concerned and if anyone wants to ask a specific question I'm happy to answer it. There was an election going on while we were there, so many of my pics had banners all over.



I feel like the vast majority of folk who want to read these - and ESPECIALLY on Disney/ABD board - do not want to focus on that. They want to see why they should go anyway. They rely on being shielded somewhat. That's the point of having this hand holding. They can't stop you looking out the bus windows, and noticing things you may later wish you hadn't, but they can choose to drop the horse and cart ride when the animals are not fed properly as AP did. They can choose NOT to include a camel ride as AP does. They did stop for a quick photo op for folks who chose to do so, and guided us to a person who treated their animal well. Yes, I sat upon and took the picture and I have no qulams about it. I freely tipped the man who afectionately called his camel 'my Charlie' and kissed him sweetly for our amusement (ew) and who showed no signs of wear on his knees and appeared in excellent health. I am an animal lover, I volunteer at my local AZA accredited zoo and have pampered my fair share of domestic cats, dogs, hamsters, and birds, though which can either prove or disprove my point based on how you feel about animal husbandry and pets. I inwardly seethed at the camels and donkeys with open wounds and dirty halters knowing that the world just flat out doesn't have the same ideas as to what constitutes abuse. I'm not hiding anything, but I'm also not bringing it to the light unless or until it affects the trip, like having to make certain not to hand off food and money to kids does.

The other problem they lamented was how sick everyone got from the 'safe' food they were served. I'll be honest... my group did not have problems. At all. One woman caught a nasty cold and was down and out for a couple days. Kyle had a bit of an upset stomach at one point as well, for half a day or so, and we never could figure out what it was. We ate the same stuff and I was fine. Here's the honest truth though - what he experienced? That happens at home too. It happens to me sometimes. I was worried about that sketchy buffet and yet... fine. We had drinks from the refreshment stands at the sites we went to, and it was fine. Coffee, juices, etc. Fine. Maybe we were lucky, or things have been getting better the past few years. Our guides said they would let us know if we needed to worry about vegetables or fruits or what have you, and I think only once or twice they reminded us to stick with only peeled fruit, when we stepped away from them and wanted to remind us in case we got our own snacks.

ONWARD...

we sailed, ever seeminly going backwards in time as we headed south up the Nile. Yes, south is upriver.



Life seeminly got slower and by watching the scenery roll by I saw a party along the banks with groups of men and women dancing gaily, fishermen, birds of all kinds and we even sailed past more ruins that we were not stopping at such as Gebel el Silsila. Sailing was one of my favorite parts of this trip, for sure. Since we had the entire ship to ourselves there were swaths of time I had almost the entire sundeck to myself - the exception being the pool which the one kid in the group had to himself. Along the way we picked up a hitchhiker; we'd been warned the small boats will often do this to save gas and to not be alarmed.



The sun had set by the time we set out again, this time for our visit at Kom Ombo Temple in the dark which was welcome as the temperature was ever rising as the days rolled on. It was so close we simply walked to it.





He pointed out a few times that the ancient egyptians invented everything first... here is one of the first 'excel spreadsheets' showing offering amounts.



After touring the temple we also visited the mummified crocodile museum attached.



Tonight we had the traditional dance party that all the ships seem to do. Kyle didn't want to attend and I did not want to go without him, so we called it another early night and relaxed as we had ANOTHER super early day the next day!

Unlike Disney, AP takes a bus to Abu Simbel. In order to get there before the crowds, it meant bus wheels were rolling at 3:30am! We were allowed to take our pillows onto the bus with us and the ship collected them when we returned and provided fresh ones on our beds.