We were there all last week. We upgraded our parkhoppers and went to the parks every day from Saturday until Friday. Sunday night was probably the least busy night, and we were able to go on Pirates and Small World without fast passes.
Other than Sunday night and early mornings, we found it REALLY busy. A couple of times we left the park because it was so busy. Many times, it was so busy that the crowd was almost at a standstill, and once they put up the ropes for Fantasmic viewing, the crowds WERE at standstills.
We did have a great time. It was our 20th anniversary trip, so we stayed at the Grand Californian, which we loved. We thoroughly enjoyed the WoC Dessert Party. We had a "food bucket list" and tried a bunch of those items. We weren't impressed with the monte cristos at Cafe Orleans, but the pomme frites were amazing. I think my favourite treat was the raspberry macaron at the Jolly Holiday Baker, with the caramel chocolate apples and english toffee running close seconds. I'm a real ride chicken, so in the past have only gone a few rides, but this time, I sucked up my fears and went on a bunch of others. Most of them I loved. Thank goodness for max pass. It was worth every penny.
Our previous visits were all in October - in 2010, 2011 and 2012 and it was nowhere near as busy during those visits as it was this "black hole" week. Our plan was to go back from Dec 9-12 this year, but we're reconsidering now, if the crowds will be worse than the past week's. We were originally holding off on booking because we didn't know if spending a full week at
Disneyland would have us "disneyed out". It didn't, but we are now holding off because we aren't sure if we want another visit as busy as this past week. I know they say there are no slow times any more, so I expected busy, but really, this was far, far busier than I expected.