Nikon 24-70 mm 2.8 in WDW?

[AsherBear]

This will be my first trip to WDW with my new lens. I am excited to use it outdoors in daylight but I am worried to use it at night/indoors. I cannot use the on camera flash on my D300 with the lens when I shoot on the wide end since I get a shadow on the bottom of my pics. I don't really want to lug along my SB800 and worry about bumping up my ISO due to noise. Any suggestions (besides ordering a D700 ). Maybe I should pick up a point and shoot for this trip? Thanks in advance.

 

[Chikabowa]

Even with high-ISO noise, you will get a better image out of the D300 w/the 24-70 on it than you would with a PnS.

Honestly, I find most of Disney manageable at night without flash, by setting that ISO up nice and high then shooting with a very open aperture. I think most people can take their shutter down to about 1/40 without shake. With that particular lens, I can take it down to 1/13 before I get camera shake (I know this for a fact because I tested it out the other day... I can't hand hold the D3 w/the 24-70 + sb800 + pocket wizard any lower), but I have a much steadier hand I think than most people.

Plus, I really do think that noise adds a lot to those night shots. It makes them so much fun!

Sometimes necessity breads invention... and you can try knew things while learning new tricks!! I'm 100% confident of shooting in the dark now because I've forced myself to do it so many times. I really encourage your to explore your camera. You've got great pieces of equipment to work with.

 

[Steve's Girl]

The shadow is caused by the lens hood. Just take that off when you are using the flash.

 

[Suburbanmom]

I have to agree with Susan/Chikabowa on this one. Jack up that ISO and don't worry too much about it. I did use my SB-800 on my D50 last year for night snapshots of the kids, but they came with the usual "flashiness" that I don't like. Now that I have the D300, I won't be using the flash. If you get an image you really like, but think it's too noisy, run it through Noiseware (or other noise removal program).

I also have the 24-70 lens and it is so clear and sharp at 2.8, you will still have sharp photos, even if there is a little noise.

 

[AsherBear]

The shadow is caused by the lens hood. Just take that off when you are using the flash.

I still get the shadow when shooting wide even with the hood removed.

Chikabowa..I wish my hands were so steady! I have to try to keep my SS above 200 with this beast. Hopefully it is just a learning curve since I could manage much lower ss with my nifty fifty.

 

[YesDear]

IF.... you believe that the 24-70 is too much bulk for you to hold steady then let me be the one to volunteer to take if off your hands!!!! I do not have one but know it is a very good piece of glass! Take it and enjoy!

 

[Chikabowa]

A general rule of thumb for camera shake...
You should be able to shoot a shutter twice the lowest focal length without getting camera shake. So... if you have a 50mm, the lowest (theoretically) you should go is 1/100. If you have a 24-70, the lowest you should be able to go is about 1/60.

That is a REALLY general thought process though.... and there are MASSIVE exceptions to the rule - especially if you don't have steady hands. So theoretically you should be able to go at least 1/60... which will give you enough ambient light in Disney to make a fairly nice exposure. Especially if you are shooting at f2.8 and ISO 3200 (which, if I'm remembering correctly, the D300 does handle).

But think before you shoot. Make sure you have a really steady stance with your legs (essentially, use your legs as 'tripods legs'). Bring your elbows into your rib cage and lock them into position. Take a deep breath and exhale. At the bottom of the exhale, shoot your frame. Kind of like shooting a pistol (of course, I'm a good shot there too!! LOL).

 

[boBQuincy]

F/2.8 is as good or better than the maximum aperture that almost any P&S is going to have. Your high ISO noise is also better than any P&S will have so it looks like you already have as good as it gets without going to a faster lens of full frame camera.

A lightweight monopod could extend your shutter speed range down to maybe 1/8 or 1/4 second with acceptably sharp images. Bump up the ISO to 800 or 1600 and you should be good for most night scenes. Shoot RAW, get some noise reduction software, and your images should be pretty good.

While on the subject of low shutter speeds, many of us have probably heard of the winter biathlon, cross country skiing and target shooting. The athletes are trained to shoot between heartbeats for stability, now that's some training we need to sign up for!

Maybe we need our own WDW photographer biathlon: carry 20 pounds of camera gear across the park, stop and get a sharp photo of Cindy's castle at night.

 

[annnewjerz]

Maybe we need our own WDW photographer biathlon: carry 20 pounds of camera gear across the park, stop and get a sharp photo of Cindy's castle at night.