SharonLowe
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2005
- Messages
- 1,773
I knew someone would come along and fix my "false doctrine of photography".
I don't actually take pictures of basketball games in our church gym, we use it for other things like church functions and cub scout meetings. But if I use a custom white balance and the neutral subject I use is in the "flash" light then the background that is in the "yellowish" light will have an odd color cast, or is there some way around that? And I don't generally use the presets, I shoot RAW and doctor it up in Lightroom (because I'm not good enough to get it right the first time).
What are the benifits of the ExpoDisc over say a WhiBal card?
You need a subject to hold a white or grey card for you, zoom in so that the card covers your frame, then shoot. Use that frame to set your white balance.
Using the ExpoDisc means you don't have to worry about Zooming in. Also, it is more portable than a decent sized white/grey card and won't bend or get messed up.
Sorry to hijack this thread Jen...but the whole white balance thing has me really confused. I have a couple of questions:
Sharon - you mentioned using a grey card to set a custom white balance. I thought you should use white? I thought a grey card was used to check for correct exposure? If you use grey, and tell the camera that anything grey is really supposed to be white, won't your whites be overexposed?
I'm TOTALLY confused about the relationship between color temperature and white balance. If I shoot raw, and use Lightroom, I have the option of adjusting the white balance - I can choose as shot, daylight, shade, flash, etc. If I choose daylight, Lightroom adjusts the temperature to something like 5500 or 5600, and it's presets also adjust the tint by +10. Choosing flash wb sets the same temperature, but without the tint correction. So my question is, is selecting your wb really the same as adjusting the temperature of your picture? And I know this is going to sound like a really stupid question - when choosing a wb in Lightroom, are you supposed to choose an option that best represents the conditions in which you were shooting, or the temperature you want as a final result?
You need a neutral card to set the white balance and either grey or white card serves that purpose. Setting the white balance does not affect your exposure. (Not to confuse anyone, but I have a Canon D60 converted to Infrared use only. To set the white balance for it, first, I look for a nice patch of green grass (because green shows as white in IR), defocus my lens, and shoot one image to use to set my IR white balance. In IR, green is the neutral color.)
Flash WB is meant to be totally neutral so that is why you have no tint. Daylight is a bit warmer, hence the tint. Cloudy is even warmer so it has more tint than daylight.
Choosing a WB is your preference. If you want neutral, go for that look. If you want a warmer tone, which for many situations is preferable, then something close to daylight or cloudy is the best choice. If I am doing sunrise/sunset images, I tend to shoot in auto and leave it that way when I process. But, I know the raw image isn't perfect so I have a method in CS3 to set the white and black points using curves layers with the blend mode set for luminosity. My method gives me a full histogram (0 to 255) but doesn't affect the color of my image. It is a bit complicated until you try it. I keep meaning to write an article on my web site about it because once you see it once, it is a very easy way to make your images really pop. I promise to do it once the holidays are over and will share it with everyone here because it really works well.