MarkBarbieri
Semi-retired
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2006
- Messages
- 6,172
This is the second of a series of posts focused on how to shoot different shows, attractions, rides, and events at Disney Theme Parks. The purpose is to help people learn how to shoot those things with their camera and what they can reasonably expect from their camera. If it works as well as I hope, it can also be a way for people to see what they might get for spending more money and learning time on different cameras.
On this forum, we run the gamut from cell phone cameras to high end DSLRs with rediculously large lenses. I'm hoping that we'll get a variety of posts from people with cameras in all ranges. Even if you feel that your photos don't measure up to what others have posted, please post some samples anyway. We're all at different levels of gear and skill and we can all learn from each other. A typical S3 user will probably learn more from your S3 shot than they will from Oblio's latest masterpiece.
Other posts in the series include:
How To Shoot: Fireworks
How to Shoot: Parades
How to Shoot: Indoor Shows
How To Shoot: Cinderella's Castle
How To Shoot: SpectroMagic
How To Shoot: Dark Rides
This ride provides great photo opportunities of animals in very wild looking settings with no screens or fences to shoot through. It's also kind of fun because of the challenges it presents. I've never really been excited by the shots that I've taken on this ride, so take my advice with several grains of salt.
The biggest challenge comes from motion. The jeep is almost constantly bouncing you and your camera. The jeep is frequently driving, so you are moving relative to your subject. As you track a subject, you also have to worry about other people or supports suddenly moving into your field of view. The animals are also pretty far away.
I think it's best to shoot the safari when there is plenty of light. The quality of light might be better late in the evening, but there might not be enough of it. Having more light helps you with two things - faster shutter speed and more DOF.
Normally when I shoot animals, I go with a very wide aperture to minize the DOF. With the Safari ride, I find that you often have to shoot so quickly that you don't always get the accurate focus that you need for a really shallow DOF shot. On the other hand, you need to keep that shutter speed up. If you go with too narrow of an aperture, you'll have to wait until the ride stops to take your shots.
I like to use a really long lens for this ride so that I can zoom in tight on the animals. The problem with that is that it exasperates all of the problems with motion. If you're using a long lens for magnification, you are magnifying camera shake, subject motion, and ride motion.
I'm not really sure what to do about IS. When you are moving, IS systems can make shots worse than if it isn't on at all. If you have an IS system that has a panning mode, that's probably the safest way to shoot. If not, I'd probably turn it off.
If you are using a heavy DSLR, be careful about holding the viewfinder right up to your eye. Sudden jolts on the ride can give you a real smack in the eye. I know this one from experience.
If you can't get a high shutter speed for some reason, try to take shots during those brief moments when the ride is stopped.
In addition to animal shots, you can sometimes lean out and get good shots of your kids/spouse/friends sitting in the seat beside you.
These shots were on a dim, overcast day. I think I set the ISO to 1600 and left the camera in Program mode so that it could make a reasonable effort at balancing shutter speed an aperture.
ISO 1600, 170mm (x1.3), f/5.6, 1/320
ISO 1600, 98mm (x1.3), f/6.3, 1/250
On this forum, we run the gamut from cell phone cameras to high end DSLRs with rediculously large lenses. I'm hoping that we'll get a variety of posts from people with cameras in all ranges. Even if you feel that your photos don't measure up to what others have posted, please post some samples anyway. We're all at different levels of gear and skill and we can all learn from each other. A typical S3 user will probably learn more from your S3 shot than they will from Oblio's latest masterpiece.
Other posts in the series include:
How To Shoot: Fireworks
How to Shoot: Parades
How to Shoot: Indoor Shows
How To Shoot: Cinderella's Castle
How To Shoot: SpectroMagic
How To Shoot: Dark Rides
This ride provides great photo opportunities of animals in very wild looking settings with no screens or fences to shoot through. It's also kind of fun because of the challenges it presents. I've never really been excited by the shots that I've taken on this ride, so take my advice with several grains of salt.
The biggest challenge comes from motion. The jeep is almost constantly bouncing you and your camera. The jeep is frequently driving, so you are moving relative to your subject. As you track a subject, you also have to worry about other people or supports suddenly moving into your field of view. The animals are also pretty far away.
I think it's best to shoot the safari when there is plenty of light. The quality of light might be better late in the evening, but there might not be enough of it. Having more light helps you with two things - faster shutter speed and more DOF.
Normally when I shoot animals, I go with a very wide aperture to minize the DOF. With the Safari ride, I find that you often have to shoot so quickly that you don't always get the accurate focus that you need for a really shallow DOF shot. On the other hand, you need to keep that shutter speed up. If you go with too narrow of an aperture, you'll have to wait until the ride stops to take your shots.
I like to use a really long lens for this ride so that I can zoom in tight on the animals. The problem with that is that it exasperates all of the problems with motion. If you're using a long lens for magnification, you are magnifying camera shake, subject motion, and ride motion.
I'm not really sure what to do about IS. When you are moving, IS systems can make shots worse than if it isn't on at all. If you have an IS system that has a panning mode, that's probably the safest way to shoot. If not, I'd probably turn it off.
If you are using a heavy DSLR, be careful about holding the viewfinder right up to your eye. Sudden jolts on the ride can give you a real smack in the eye. I know this one from experience.
If you can't get a high shutter speed for some reason, try to take shots during those brief moments when the ride is stopped.
In addition to animal shots, you can sometimes lean out and get good shots of your kids/spouse/friends sitting in the seat beside you.
These shots were on a dim, overcast day. I think I set the ISO to 1600 and left the camera in Program mode so that it could make a reasonable effort at balancing shutter speed an aperture.
ISO 1600, 170mm (x1.3), f/5.6, 1/320
ISO 1600, 98mm (x1.3), f/6.3, 1/250

Can't tell you what I was thinking on that one.

