my flash is not a canon, I don't remember the brand. I'll have to look.
Actually, I use it in P mode most of the time. I just thought a pure slr was a lot to handle w/ focusing in moments when I was in a hurry. I don't know??
Hmmm...my experience is that autofocusing is pretty much instantaneous on DSLRs. On the other hand, I find that non-DSLR cameras usually have about a 1/2 to 1-second delay while the camera autofocuses.
A lot of (if not all) professional photographers use DSLRs. Sports photographers, wedding photographers, photojournalists, etc all
depend on the camera to "focus while in a hurry". I can't imagine doing sports photography, for example, using only manual focus. Today's DSLRs all have autofocus.
Also, today's DSLRs all have a "P" mode, you can still take the exact same pictures with a DSLR. (although this begs the question, do you really *need* a DSLR?)
I have zero experience with studio lighting, so whatever I say below, please take with a huge grain of salt. (mmmm...salt...)
When you buy studio lighting, you have to look for a few things.
How are you going to trigger those studio lights? Those lights are going to be a few feet away from your camera, so how will those lights know to "flash" at the same time as your camera?
Pros typically use wireless radio triggers, such as PocketWizards, CyberSyncs, RadioPoppers, cheap eBay wireless triggers, etc. A transmitter is placed in the hotshoe of your camera, and a receiver is connected to each of your studio strobes (ie. if you have 2 strobes, you'll need 2 receivers).
You can also connect them via a PC sync cord. In photography, PC does not stand for "personal computer", but that's just what it's called. I believe you connect the PC sync cord from the external flash on your camera onto the studio strobe.
I looked at the links to the eBay listings you provided. Looks like those studio strobes are triggered optically (ie. they "see" that a flash is going off, so the strobes will fire at the same time). While this set-up is convenient and doesn't require wires, it
does require you to use a flash on your camera. Oftentimes, lighting from flash is "prettier" when the light isn't pointed directly at your subject's face. We usually try for "directional" lighting, where light comes at an angle toward a subject. That way, you get *some* shadows that help define your subject's face / features.
The advantage of studio strobes is that you can control this directional lighting and create nice & soft shadows. However, if you're also required to fire a flash directly from your camera, then you may lose some of that directional lighting.
Umbrellas vs. Softboxes
This topic itself brings up huge debates (like Canon vs. Nikon) about which one produces better quality of light. However, in looking at the eBay listings you provided, it looked like one of the sellers was offering 2 different umbrellas: one shoot-through umbrella (the white translucent umbrella) and one reflector umbrella (the black-silver umbrella). Somehow, I would think that you'd probably prefer having 2 of the same type of umbrellas in your kit, rather than having 2 different types of umbrellas.
It looks like the 2nd eBay listing costs more because you're getting 4 umbrellas, instead of 2. Plus, the 2nd listing allows you to control the power of your strobes.
Control the power of strobes
The 1st eBay listing doesn't talk about the ability to control the power of your strobes (maybe it can, but it didn't say). You're never going to fire your strobes at the same full intensity every time. You
*need* the ability to adjust the power of each strobe. Sometimes, you'll need the strobe to fire at 1/2 power, sometimes at 1/4 power, sometimes at 1/8 power, etc.
Modeling light
I would think that this is a good thing. Modeling light gives you a preview of how the light will fall on your subjects. This also allows you to see where the shadows fall, if they're really harsh, etc. Without a modeling light, you'll be guessing at the quality of light that falls on your subject.
Finally, do you really need studio strobes? You mentioned that you're going to be taking pictures of your children. I would think that studio portrait photography is only a very small part of photographing children. I'd hate to see you spend all this money setting up a nice mini-studio, only to use it on rare occasions.
I love seeing pictures of children having fun in their natural environment. I wonder if you're better off learning about using an external flash, like a Canon Speedlite 580EX II or 430EX II. Learn how to bounce the flash off the ceiling or nearby wall. Use it as fill flash. Use it to capture pictures of your children in difficult lighting situations. I think an external flash is a lot more portable and *versatile* than a studio strobe kit.
Sorry this post was so long. Again, I have zero experience with studio strobes, so folks who know better, please correct me if I'm wrong.
