HDR (high dynamic range)

Here is a FAQ from hdrsoft.com on dealing with noise.
I am getting noisy tone mapping results. Is there a way to avoid this?

The Tone Mapping method "Details Enhancer" enhances local details a lot. If the local details of your HDR image are noisy (you can easily see that in the HDR viewer), then the noise will be enhanced as well, unfortunately.
Applying a noise removal tool to the tone mapped image is often the best solution. You may still avoid having to do that with the recommendations below:
Case 1: Motionless scene (i.e. without moving objects) In this case, it should be possible to avoid noise in the HDR image if the differently exposed photos cover the whole dynamic range of the scene. That is, making sure that at least one photo correctly exposes the deepest shadows and one photo correctly exposes the highlights (see above). It is particularly important that your bracketed shots include an image taken with a sufficiently long exposure time to make the darkest parts of the scene visible.
There are some situations (e.g. low-light outdoor scenes) where correctly exposing the darkest part might not be possible. Make sure in this case to enable the noise reduction function of your camera if there is one. You may also try taking several images at long exposure times and stack them together in Photomatix using the "Average" combination. Then, generate the HDR image with the result of the stacking at each exposure.
Also, it may be a good idea to lower the exposure spacing, for instance to one-EV increments instead of two. This is especially recommended if you are using a compact camera.

Case 2: Scene with motion If you have a high-quality camera able to keep very low levels of noise at high ISO settings, then you can limit the number of bracketed shots to just two, each taken at high ISO with very short exposure times. The tone mapping tool is really good at retrieving shadow details from underexposed shots, so you don't need to expose more if your camera has an outstanding signal-to-noise ratio. In this case, you may also try with just one shot taken in RAW mode and convert it into a "pseudo" HDR image in Photomatix to tone map it.
If you don't have such a camera, then you may still try with a limited number of images taken at high ISO settings, and then apply a noise reduction tool to the tone mapped image.

If you are applying the Tone Mapping tool to a single RAW instead of differently exposed images, then the chance of getting noisy results is higher, unfortunately. In this case, we recommend exposing for the shadows by slightly overexposing your shot.
In any case, the problem of noise made more visible with Tone Mapping only applies to the Details Enhancer method. You can still avoid it by using the Tone Compressor method instead.

Groucho, That shot was taken in Seattle on the waterfront. I love it, prob one of the best shots I had the whole trip. I have a B&W version that my wife wanted blown up, so anyday now I will have my 20X30 image of it in B&W. Can't wait to see how it looks.
 
Not speaking from personal experience, but I have read that all you need to do is strip the EXIF and then PS will prompt you to input the differences in exposure manually. There are free programs that will strip the EXIF data, but I believe that they typically run in batch mode, so be sure to have the files isolated to a separate folder to be safe.

Also, while it would be slower, can the HDR programs handle TIFF? That might keep the noise down.

Kevin

You strip the EXIF from the converted image(s) not the RAW file, you can do it by copy and pasting the image onto a new blank image(which contains no Exif info) and then closing the original image that contained exif data. I recorded an action which does all of this for me with a single click of a button on the selected image.

So you

1. convert multiple images from a single RAW file each with bracketed exposure values.
2. strip exif and save into a easy to find folder(create an action to do it all).
3. Merge images in said folder to HDR, where you will be prompted to set exposure values. I just set each by shutter speed, 1 stop apart each.
 
What I meant with CS3 is that I thought I read there was a way to give it a single RAW file, not ones that had been processed to different exposures. I don't remember the details, though - I know, I'm about as useful as film canister to a digital camera!

The noise is to be expected if areas of your photo are very dark... you're essentially "pushing" your original image. Ie, take a photo that was taken at ISO 800 and push the exposure to 2.0 over the original, and you're at ISO 3200. Go 3 stops in either direction and you're talking ISO 100 to ISO 6400. Granted, it's not exactly the same as shooting at those levels, but you're going to get a lot of noise the farther you brighten up the dark areas.
 
What I meant with CS3 is that I thought I read there was a way to give it a single RAW file, not ones that had been processed to different exposures.


Maybe one could create an ACTION where all of the steps are automated from one single RAW file, but I have never tried it and really I prefer to do all of the tweaking myself.
 

Is there a cheap way to change hdr pics into something displayable on the web or regular graphics program? I am experimenting with HDR, so I am not very knowledgeable at all, so if anyone has any tips or anything, feel free to jump in. Thanks!
 
If you're using an HDR program like Photomatix or Photoshop you can just go to file > save as. Then select jpeg from the menu. Thats what I do.
 
Do you know if you can make an HDR with Photoshop Elements? Are there any free ways to make an HDR? Maybe I have to dig out Photoshop...

I'm dying to try and create an HDR! I even took some shots in WDW just for that. Problem was - I didn't have a tripod with me (figures) so I held as still as I could. Um.... do they have to be RAW?

D4D
 
MediaChance's DPHDR program is inexpensive and the free trial version allows saving some limited HDR images.

I am not sure if I will purchase this (or any) "HDR" software but it is interesting. Here's one I did today with the trial version:
nhvry11nov.jpg
 
I found a program called picturenaut that will do hdr pics and it is opensource and runs on windows. Seems to work ok, but havent really been able to test it.
 
Took advantage of the gorgeous weather we've been having in Buffalo lately and went out and did some shooting around town.

Here's few 3 & 5 shot HDRs all shot with a tripod mounted Canon 30D and a 28-135mm lens. Please excuse the sensor dust! Didn't realize it was so dirty. :scared1:

Thanks for looking! :)

Buffalo & Erie County Historical Society Building in the first two shots.
HS2lucis.jpg


HS1lucis.jpg



H.H. Richardson Complex (a.k.a. Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane)
Richardsonlucis.jpg
 
Very much POP! I like 'em.

Is everyone of those dots a spec on the sensor? WOW!! hehehehehe

Mikeeeee
 
I am not new to photography, but I am new to HDR. I LOVE the look and I am hoping to try it out with some photos when I go to Disney this September.
I do have a few questions about it though.

I thought the objects in your photos had to be stationary for it to work? I have seen a few shots with animals, people, fireworks etc.

Does the camera have to be on a tripod?

I have a D80 that has bracketing but when I go to Disney I will be brining my D40. Can I still get my photos that I need with no bracketing?
 
I am not new to photography, but I am new to HDR. I LOVE the look and I am hoping to try it out with some photos when I go to Disney this September.
I do have a few questions about it though.

I thought the objects in your photos had to be stationary for it to work? I have seen a few shots with animals, people, fireworks etc.

Does the camera have to be on a tripod?

I have a D80 that has bracketing but when I go to Disney I will be brining my D40. Can I still get my photos that I need with no bracketing?

Check out the Photomatix web site- if this url doesn't come through just do a search for photomatix and the website will come up.
The website has a really good FAQ which explains the process and should answer most of your questions.

http://www.hdrsoft.com/

You will get better results using a tripod- you should take 3 photos exposing one for the highlights, one for the shadows, and one normal- so they should all be taken with the same aperture so that your DOF is the same in each photo.

For action photos, if you shoot in RAW, you can sort of fake an HDR by taking your one RAW photo, processing 3 copies as above, and then using them to make your HDR photo.


Have fun!
 
I have a D80 that has bracketing but when I go to Disney I will be brining my D40. Can I still get my photos that I need with no bracketing?

In manual mode, you can bracket it yourself.

On a side note, why not take the D80 to WDW? It is a little heavier, but much more capable. This is especially true if you do low light shooting with the 50mm f/1.8. I do not know if you have that lens or something similar.

Kevin
 
Are you using Photomatix software and if so, how do you like it.

Yep. I like it, but for whatever reason it has a tendency to lock up my computer sometimes which is annoying as heck.:badpc:
 
In manual mode, you can bracket it yourself.

On a side note, why not take the D80 to WDW? It is a little heavier, but much more capable. This is especially true if you do low light shooting with the 50mm f/1.8. I do not know if you have that lens or something similar.

Kevin

I am not taking the D80 because I am a photographer and that is the one I use for weddings an other photo shoots.

I have the 50mm but it will not fit on my D40 (that's what I was told and I have not tried it.) :confused:
 















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