External Flash (Speedlite) Question

[SyracuseWolvrine]

I've got a Canon Digital Rebel XT. I'm considering purchasing a speedlite for the camera, however, I'm not sure that I really need one.

Most of the pictures that I take (at the moment) are outdoor shots, in natural lighting. A good majority of these are in situations that I don't use the flash, for example, fireworks.

About the only time I use the flash is when I'm taking nighttime pictures with people in them, which doesn't happen all that often. So far, I've found that the internal flash on the camera provides suitable results for this.

I've also done, and would like to do more sports (namely ice hockey) photography. Mostly, I end up shooting without a flash, as my vantage point would be out of the range of the built-in flash. This is not likely to change (press credentials are difficult to come by as a freelancer with no published photos, and most likely nobody that would buy my photos). Also, even if I were to get a speedlite, it's not really the sort of lighting that's typically used for sports photography ... usually something more like a few strategically placed remote flashs triggered by a pocketwizard type device.

So, at the end of reading all this, would you recommend I buy a speedlite? Or, would it be a waste of money for me at this point in time? If I buy one, what sort of features should I look for? (the DRXT is my first SLR, after having used a long line of P&S cameras with no options for external flashes)

 

[Charade]

I think you've talked yourself out of getting one.

I have a Nikon external flash for my D70 because I don't like the indoor capability of the onboard flash.

 

[SyracuseWolvrine]

I wouldn't say that I've talked myself out of getting one, but at the moment, I'd say that the kinds of photography I do don't much call for it ... of course, there's always the other side of the argument, namely, that if I bought one, I'd find myself doing more photography that calls for it.

 

[Geoff_M]

I probably use mine outdoors as much, if not more, than I do indoors. For starters, one-stop-under auto fill flash is a true Godsend. One of the biggest problems with outdoor photography is harsh shadows in direct sunlight. People's faces are one of the biggest examples... even worse if they are wearing hats. By using your dedicated flash, you can set it to illuminate the scene a one stop less than the ambient light. The result is that you kick some light under people hats and into there faces, but at an amount less than the sun is dumping in. The end result is a "natural" looking photo that eliminates the harsh shadows the sun can create.

Here's a prime example of mine... Without fill-flash, Dan Wheldon's face would have been a whole lot darken (particularly his eye sockets). Notice that with the flash set at one-stop-under, you still get the natural shadow lines on his face:

As for PocketWizards... you can do a heck of a lot with two regular speedlights with PWs. I use just such a setup for shooting basketball, weddings, and I've even illuminated the House and Senate Chambers at our Capitol building in Lansing.

As for hockey, I shot it both with on-camera speedlight and ambient light. Ambient light only works well in the usual dimly lit rinks around here if you're using glass that's f2.8 or less. The problem with on-camera and hockey is that it often gives the ice a real funky look... often dark and the skate groves in the ice really stick out.

 

[Scottwdw]

Like Geoff M said, fill-flash with a unit designed for your camera beyond the on-camera flash opens up some very creative outdoor and indoor possibilities. I'd recommend finding one that can act off camera either wirelessly or as a slave to the on-camera unit. My SB-600 speedlight will do that with my Nikon D70. I also picked up a cheap unit years ago with a stand that will slave off a flash. There you go, instant three light studio setup.

Where are you shooting hockey? In the old War Memorial? That place is hard to get good photos in. Lighting is terrible even for an AHL barn. At high school, Jr. Crunch or MYHA games, they may let you set up remote units. Never hurts to ask. Offer free pictures in exchange or something. When you start getting good ones, parents are always interested in photos of their sons and daughters.

 

[SyracuseWolvrine]

Haven't been shooting much hockey since I moved to Orlando, but most of what I shot was college hockey games from the seat that I paid for.

Agreed, that the War Memorial doesn't have much to offer in the way of lighting.

Geoff ... the only rinks in the Lansing area that I've played in were Munn and some little community rink in Lansing (don't remember the name of it) ... of course, this was way before I got into photography, so I don't remember the lighting situation.

 

[Geoff_M]

The rinks I've shot here in Michigan are in the Kalamazoo, Dearborn, and Ann Arbor areas. Unless you get a good "pro" arena, you're probably looking at 1/500th @ f2.8, ISO 1600. If you drop below a 500th, you're going to start to get a lot of stick/puck motion blur. Much below that, the players start to blur too. Also, in case you don't already know, you'll need to dial some compensation into the meter for all of the white ice... about a stop. Better yet, use manual. I use a handheld light meter. If you don't have one, use the histograph on your LCD find a good exposure combo.

 

[PhotoLisa]

In pro scenarios, hotshoe flashes are usually prohibited. Even in college scenarios, flash is usually prohibited as well.

High school sports will generally allow flash.

As stated above, using fill flash in outdoor photography can prove to be very beneficial. With your Canon setup, purchase the 580EX if possible because it will slave to another 580EX without the ST-E2 required. Your field of reach is best with the 580. In outdoor situations, shoot with your flash at a -1 in ETTL and you'll get awesome fill!

Lisa

 

[SyracuseWolvrine]

Geoff ... grew up in the Ann Arbor area, have spent many hours in all 4 of the local rinks (Yost, Vets, Cube, and Buhr) Of those, Vets and Buhr have atrocious lighting, the Cube is pretty reasonable, and Yost can be good if they've got all the lights on, but they usually don't, unless UM is playing.

 

[Scottwdw]

Haven't been shooting much hockey since I moved to Orlando, but most of what I shot was college hockey games from the seat that I paid for.

Agreed, that the War Memorial doesn't have much to offer in the way of lighting.

Well, I had a 50/50 chance you were either in Syracuse or UM! So, you end up in Orlando. Fast glass and high ISO seems to be your best choice. Maybe set your WB off the ice surface.

I'll have to get to a Crunch game and try that. I love getting seats close to the ice.

 

[Geoff_M]

Eric,

Scott mentioned a good point I forgot.... Yes, set your WB off of the ice. Those funky vapor lights play havoc with Auto WB.

As for the Cube, I think I shot this one there two years ago. Little Ceasar's Girl's travel state championship title game:

 

[WillCAD]

I can't address the hockey issue, but I agree with everything Geff said about using a Speedlight for fill-in in outdoor shots.

I have a Speedlight 220EX, which I originally bought for my Rebel G 35mm. I carry it around in my pocket at WDW, and used it a lot on my MouseFest trip, both indoor and outdoor. It's not just for illumination, it's for smoothing things out.

A Speedlight 220EX is not as sophisticated as the 580EX that PhotoLisa mentioned, but it's not very expensive (around $120) and talks to your Rebel XT. I have not regretted buying my 220EX a bit, even though I only use it on about 1/3 of my shots. It's an extremely handy addition to my photographic toolkit.

But where my Speedlight 220EX really excels is in very low-light indoor shots. Not only is it a powerful illumination source, but it has a built-in infrared focus-assist light that makes it possible for my camera to lock in the auto-focus in very dark rooms. Of course, you have to lock your camera on the center focus point to use the Speedlight's focus-assist lamp, but I do that anyway, so it doesn't bother me.