Dry wall mud? BUMP Froggy can your hear me?

[IMGONNABE40!]

I would like to do some fairly minor dry wall repair to some cracks and patch up following electrical work. I don't know a thing about dry wall mud. Can anyone advise? I need help from what to purchase, how to mix how to apply, what to apply it with and general tips for working with the mud. Thank you.

 

[shrubber]

You can buy it pre mixed at your local DIY store. Look for "Lightweight spackling compound" There will be three or four different types displayed side by side. The difference being drying time. Buy a taping/spackling knife (looks like a fat spatula) just larger than the hole you are trying to fill in. Overfill the hole just slightly and sand smooth with a fine grit paper when dry.

 

[The Mystery Machine]

Yes spackle, let dry & sand. It is pretty easy.

 

[autochick]

I find that when it comes time to sand it is much easier to wet sand. There is less mess and you dont get the lines that you might with regular sand paper. They make a special sponge for this type of sanding.

 

[IMGONNABE40!]

I have spackling compound and have used it to fill in small holes and such. What I have now are long cracks from the foundation settling (or so they tell me) and a piece of drywall that was cut out to do electrical work, and put back in. These seem to big to just spackle. When my builder came out for our one year warranty check, he mixed a mud and used that on the cracks.

Any other thoughts?

 

[IMGONNABE40!]

7/23 Update

The electricians had to cut another hole in the wall. The piece of dry wall fits neatly back into place, but it needs mud, sanding and painting. I do not think spackle is meant for a job like this. Any info from those experienced with dry wall mud, as opposed to spackle? Thanks.

 

[RNMOM]

Don't forget to prime the area again too. If you paint it will help the area blend into the other painted surfaces. If you paper, you might have a very difficult time removing the paper if you don't prime and size the area.

 

[IMGONNABE40!]

Thank you for the suggestion on priming. I would not have thought of that.

 

[Bob Slydell]

Are they taping it too? If so, then "mudding" it isn't so hard. Get a bucket of joint compound and a large spackling knife. Spread on more than what you need on the seams and scrape off the excess. Continue the process until all the tape seams are well covered and smooth.

Then sand everything, prime it and paint it.

 

[FroggyinArk]

ok ok ok i hear ya. Sorry was actually ignoring drs orders and doin g stuff yesterday. payed lat night by not being able to sleep so i'm late.


here we go. Yes avoiod spaclkle. Use premixed drywall joint compound get it at wal mart in a gallon can. mix it well. yeah i klnow its premixed, but it will need recombined. get the lumps out. also buy a roll of prepasted fiberglass tape. Its a fibermesh tape that is sticky on one side. cut to length and apply tape to crack or seam, or over the hole. Get a 6 inch putty knife, put a thin layer of mud over the tape. let it dry 24 hours, then a second layer, wider than the first, make the mud oerlap the last layer by an inch or 2, same as above, next day. on fourth day, take sand paper and even out the mud. try and get the edges really smoothed in with out tearing the paper on the adjascent rock. If you burr the paper it will have to be patched too. i really dont recoimmend wet sanding, a light touch with the knife the first few times willl limit sanding to a min anyway., i would recommend have kid hold hose of vacumm near the sandpaper as you sand. it will keep you from posting the dust is every where now what thread later. once you get it smooth, prime area and let dry. check trhe surface for indents or ripples after you prime, if there are any spots you need to re sand do that now. REprime if needed then paint. Be careful not to get the mud too t hick because if you do it will dry on the surface then shrink as it drys underneath and crack. several thin layers are muych better than one thick one and even if it look dry wait the 24 hours. you should be able to patch it with a lil effort,

adding a step to the first here..... if there are any burrs along edge of seams before you start, take a block of wood or a large metal spoon and "plane" them away, you might have to take a razor knife and trim them. any other problems holler

 

[IMGONNABE40!]

Thank you! I really appreciate the advice. I hope you are feeling better today Froggy.

 

[FroggyinArk]

hey hows the mud patching going?

 

[IMGONNABE40!]

Thanks for your interest, Froggy. I have been without a computer at the house since the office is the place where all of the work has been going on. I think we unplugged on 8/2.

I had contractors in for several days and had to leave the mud unsanded for awhile. I hope to do it after work today, or at the latest tomorrow. We did sand a small area and the trick about the vacuum worked perfectly. That was my "test spot" and now has cabinets installed over it. I also did interim sanding between layers of mud (as you suggested when I told you I put it on too thick) on the one spot that will be very visible and that is the only spot I have left to sand. I decided to buy the Black and Decker Mouse sander with the hope that I will be able to get it smoother and more even than I did on the other area that is now hidden behind cabinets.

 

[FroggyinArk]

be very verey very careful with the power sander on the wall,, if it tears the paper you will have to start over.

 

[Microcell]

I have to say froggy, I am surprised about your distain with the spackle! My DH created a wall (at two joints) with the stuff. Looked pretty good! I know you are thinking, isn't she the one with the doofus husband who thought joint seams were indications of a foundation problem? Yes, that would be me! He is normally pretty handy, but faltered with the foundation! He is going to paint the exterior in October, so you wanna supervise?

 

[FroggyinArk]

sorry but spackling tends to dry out and crack and chip after a few monhts, sometimes you get lucky,, most times not, especiallly if its thick, be glad to offer any advice i can in the home repair line, its hopw i have supported myself for the last 19 years or so and since i am not working full time now, i'm glad to use any opportunity to keep my skills sharp.