Do you have a DOG GROOMING question?

Do you know a good, gentle dematting tool that I can use on my timid Scottish Terrier. We do groom her ourselves and have good, professional quality equipment. She has a "soft" coat that mats like crazy and is afraid of brushes. The undercoat seems to start the mats, with most around her paws and her armpit area. Right now we just cut out the worst mats and I work on small ones a little at a time. We get the PetEdge catelogs also.

She is a rescue and we strongly suspect she was "spanked" with hairbrushes. I can only brush her using a palm brush (it has pins), but it really stresses her, so we don't do it as often as we should. Thanks for any advice!
 
we have a golden ret. she has very hairy bottoms off her paws , is it ok to cut it? i see lettle tangles starting and dont want it to be come matted??
 
TheRatPack said:
Yes, by puppy cut I mean short all over but still full (not the shaved look). He doesn't have a silky coat, so it grows in curly on his back section...no point in letting it get long as it just doesn't grow out straight and pretty like the show Yorkies. We like having his ears tipped though, and keeping his face pretty rounded (with his beard).

We've only found one person that trimmed him correctly, and she's since moved so we're trying to learn to do it ourselves. Out of the 6-10 cuts we've had done on him, once he was shaved down to the skin in some spots...and even had a few placed on him that were red and raw OUCH. And sometimes you can't even tell he's been trimmed.

We do well with brushing him, so the mats aren't really an issue....we'd just like to keep him trim/short though since there is no point in letting it get long like the skirt on most Yorkies.

Thanks!!


Ok, if you want to try to tackle this on your own, then you need to keep it SIMPLE. I would recommend getting a pair of clippers (if you haven't already), a #3, #10 and #40 (optional) blades and scissors. Use the #3 (the longest blade there is. After this, if you want it longer, you'll have to scissor it which should be done by a professional) everywhere except the beard and ears. Use the #10 on his ears (Flat surface ONLY (top and bottom). Go back with the scissors to CAREFULLY trim the edges.), stomach area and rectum. Use the #10 or the #40 between the pads of the feet. Scissor around the egdes of the feet, even up the long pieces that the #3 didn't catch all over, trim around the eyes and trim the beard to desired length. Always keep the blade flat against the body (leg, etc) and don't let the blade get too hot. (There's no need to press down on them either. Just let the blade do the work for you. If there are matts then you'll have to stop and brush them out (for a smoother look) or dig under them (area may be shorter than the rest of the coat). If the clippers are slanted/tilted you'll make a "divot" in the hair and you'll have to use the scissors to blend it back in with the rest of the hair.

I use these clippers:
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...at=12&iSubCat=36&iSubSubCat=66&iProductID=607

Blades:
#3
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...at=12&iSubCat=36&iSubSubCat=0&iProductID=4714
#40
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...at=12&iSubCat=36&iSubSubCat=0&iProductID=4697

You can usually get a #10 or #40 WITH the clipper.

Hope this helped a little bit.
 
huckster said:
we have a golden ret. she has very hairy bottoms off her paws , is it ok to cut it? i see lettle tangles starting and dont want it to be come matted??

YES! Go ahead and cut it off. While you're at it, trim around the edges of her feet for a tidy look. Hold the paw up to trim the underside (duh) but make sure she's standing to trim around the edge of the foot. Some folks get a little too carried away and cut the hair over the nails. Use the nails as your guide! Cut the hair back to the TIPS of the nails but leave the hair that covers the tops of them. It's a cinch!

I use the electric clippers to "scoop" out the pads of the feet. It's standard on ALL grooms.
 

Jockaroo said:
Do you know a good, gentle dematting tool that I can use on my timid Scottish Terrier. We do groom her ourselves and have good, professional quality equipment. She has a "soft" coat that mats like crazy and is afraid of brushes. The undercoat seems to start the mats, with most around her paws and her armpit area. Right now we just cut out the worst mats and I work on small ones a little at a time. We get the PetEdge catelogs also.

She is a rescue and we strongly suspect she was "spanked" with hairbrushes. I can only brush her using a palm brush (it has pins), but it really stresses her, so we don't do it as often as we should. Thanks for any advice!

This sounds like a behavioral issue. I don't feel I'm qualified to answer this one. The only thing I can say is work with her a little bit at a time with the brush. You don't need to USE the brush at first. Just have it there with you. Then, start introducing the brush (rub her with it?, let her smell it?). Then, after she's ok with all that, gradually start brushing her...lightly at first. Maybe she'll come around. This could take a week or more. If you have electric clippers, use a #10 blade to scoop out the arm pit areas. No need to brush this area (I don't!). But be very careful that you don't catch the web of skin (that comes out when you lift the leg up) in the clipper blade. The clippers will chew it up!

Good luck with her! :thumbsup2
 
ilovepcot said:
I've had Toy Poodles all my adult life but have never gotten into grooming them myself. All of them could easily go 6-8 weeks before requiring professional grooming. Spider (seen below) has the thickest coat my groomer or I have ever seen on a Poodle and he needs grooming every 3-4 weeks. I'd really like to purchase some *very good* quality equipment and learn to at least keep his face and paws clean between his regular professional grooms. Suggestions on where and what kind of equipment to buy?

Wanted to add, after seeing above post, that Spider has the problem with tear staining as well. You can see the tearing under both eyes in his picture. Vet prescribed an antibiotic but he'll have to continue taking it the rest of his life or else stop and have the tearing and staining begin immediately. Ugh!

100_0271.jpg

I'm sorry for taking so long!!

You need clippers, #40 blade or #10 (not as close as the #40)(for the "poodle" clean feet and face) and a blade for the body if you choose to do it yourself. Judging by the pic, I would say a #4 or #5 blade on the body. Scissors, a comb and a brush. If you want the fluffy look you'll need a force dryer.

Click on "Blades Detachable (A5 compatible)":
http://www.petedge.com/jump.jsp?itemType=GATEWAY&itemID=36

Brush:
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...0&iSubCat=0&iSubSubCat=0&iProductID=2074&AS=1

Clippers:
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...at=12&iSubCat=36&iSubSubCat=66&iProductID=952

Comb: This is just to show you what kind. You can decide which one.
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...12&iSubCat=152&iSubSubCat=160&iProductID=4078

Force Dryer: Or any other Metro (orange color) dryer. This is mine.
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...12&iSubCat=112&iSubSubCat=119&iProductID=1361

Hope this helps.
 
Pinkprincessmom said:
I groom my Miniature Schnauzer myself. Not as pretty as a professional, but cheaper. My problem is that I cannot add the attachements to the razor. They seem to get caught in her furr. When I use the razor without the attachments, the cut is too short and she gets razor burn in places.

Any advice?

Thank you very much!

ETA a photo where she is in need of a hair cut!
OurFamily007.jpg

What equipment/accessories are you currently using?
 
DLBDS said:
This sounds like a behavioral issue. I don't feel I'm qualified to answer this one. The only thing I can say is work with her a little bit at a time with the brush. You don't need to USE the brush at first. Just have it there with you. Then, start introducing the brush (rub her with it?, let her smell it?). Then, after she's ok with all that, gradually start brushing her...lightly at first. Maybe she'll come around. This could take a week or more. If you have electric clippers, use a #10 blade to scoop out the arm pit areas. No need to brush this area (I don't!). But be very careful that you don't catch the web of skin (that comes out when you lift the leg up) in the clipper blade. The clippers will chew it up!

Good luck with her! :thumbsup2

Well, I've been working with her for 4 1/2 years, so....
We do have the #10 and will try that. I use a stripping knife/blade on my male scottie and have no problems, but the little girl just hates any type of brushing or combing. She is very good when we use the clippers or scissors, however. This is a very nice thread you have started--thank you!
 
I can attest to the Furminator brush! I bought it to use on my Samoyed and it works wonders! I tried using a shedding blade and she hated it. No matter how gentle I was, she hated it. I paid the money for the Furminator after seeing it on QVC and I love it and most of all she doesn't mind being brushed with it at all. I wish that I had a picture of all of the hair it took off of her during "coat blowing time". During the summer it looked like our front yard was covered with snow. The only gripe that I have about it is that it isn't that wide and the bigger the dog the bigger the brush that is needed and it isn't very big.
 
maciec said:
I can attest to the Furminator brush! I bought it to use on my Samoyed and it works wonders! I tried using a shedding blade and she hated it. No matter how gentle I was, she hated it. I paid the money for the Furminator after seeing it on QVC and I love it and most of all she doesn't mind being brushed with it at all. I wish that I had a picture of all of the hair it took off of her during "coat blowing time". During the summer it looked like our front yard was covered with snow. The only gripe that I have about it is that it isn't that wide and the bigger the dog the bigger the brush that is needed and it isn't very big.

We LOVE the Furminator, too. I had Winston done by our groomer first and then we bought the solution and the brush from PetsMart (They just started to sell them). It can cut down shedding by something crazy like 90%!

Also, they have 3 different brush sizes - was QVC offering all 3? We bought the smallest, as Winston is a pretty small guy, but they have a really large one - I think it's $55.

He gets Furminated by us, Harley gets groomed by the pro's. Harley won't sit for us long enough to brush him much less groom him. He's a pill.
 
I have another question - and it's partially behavioral.

Winston, my 35 pound mutt, HATES having his paws messed with. We touch them, caress them, kiss them, etc as often as possible and always have but he still hates it. DH and I cannot cut his nails ourselves, he freaks, so we take him to a groomer. Last time we went, DH had to help because she was by herself in the salon and Winston wrapped himself around DHs neck trying to escape and (accidently of course) drew blood all over his neck and back from his claws. The groomer was so patient, and tried so hard, but it was really really tough on us all. She did hit the quick once but only because of his jerking. He screamed, and flung himself around, and cried.

When you have a dog like this, how do you handle them? What else can we do to get him used to it? Do you have any tips we can try or suggest to our groomer? I feel guilty for making them cut his nails he's so bad for them =(
 
Jockaroo... we have 2 Scottish Terriers too. :)
Bridget really hated being brushed when we got her... she used to run when she saw the brush and nipped when we did brush her, it took a year of brushing her and holding her pretty darn tight to get her to understand that we were not going to hurt her. She finally figured out that we were going to brush her..no matter what. She now likes to be brushed..... coulda been those extra after brushing treats too ;)
Angus is a rescue Scottie... he goes completely ballistic about grooming. We have tried EVERYTHING.. he looses control of his bowels and nips the groomers.. ANY groomer. The last time we ended up taking him to a vet-groomer they sedated him almost completely.. and the bugger STILL nipped at the groomer. He lets us brush him, everyday-no problem. Several vets have checked Angus out.. nothing physically wrong except the dog is hyperactive and has OCD about playing fetch.... :confused3
I am nervous about trying to clipper cut him. I am not worried that he will bite me.. but I am worried about doing a hatchet job on him.

So the question for OP is...
How does one even begin to give a Scottie a proper Scottie do? Both our Scot's have shorter furnishings.. skirts.
 
Another doggy Mom with tear stain issues... our English bulldog ALWAYS has tear stains. Doesn't help that area of his face is mostly white. Just subscribing myself to this thread so if any answers come up for this topic, I'll hear about it! :)

Thanks for your willingness to answer the questions! :)
 
mamajoan said:
Jockaroo... we have 2 Scottish Terriers too. :)
Bridget really hated being brushed when we got her... she used to run when she saw the brush and nipped when we did brush her, it took a year of brushing her and holding her pretty darn tight to get her to understand that we were not going to hurt her. She finally figured out that we were going to brush her..no matter what. She now likes to be brushed..... coulda been those extra after brushing treats too ;)

How does one even begin to give a Scottie a proper Scottie do? Both our Scot's have shorter furnishings.. skirts.


Hi Joan! This site helped us so much when we were learning to clip Tipper
http://www.stornowayscots.com/groom.htm
I emailed Susan several times for advice and she was very nice and helpful.

Based on your comments on Angus, I guess my sweet Tippy isn't as bad as she could be. She just has so much hair. My male Scottie has a very nice coat and I strip his undercoat a couple of times a year, but due to allergies, we don't clip him--he looks like Fala. Tippy just looks like an ewok if she isn't groomed! Nice to see another Scottie person.
 
THANKS!!!

Great website..
I am still very nervous about wrecking this beautiful dog.. he is a gorgeous Scottie-true to standard, physically. I am afraid he will end up with mullet! LOL
Bridget is very small, almost dainty for a Scot. Both of them are good family pets with quirky personalities.
I love my Scotties! can you tell? ;)
 
Aimeedyan said:
I have another question - and it's partially behavioral.

Winston, my 35 pound mutt, HATES having his paws messed with. We touch them, caress them, kiss them, etc as often as possible and always have but he still hates it. DH and I cannot cut his nails ourselves, he freaks, so we take him to a groomer. Last time we went, DH had to help because she was by herself in the salon and Winston wrapped himself around DHs neck trying to escape and (accidently of course) drew blood all over his neck and back from his claws. The groomer was so patient, and tried so hard, but it was really really tough on us all. She did hit the quick once but only because of his jerking. He screamed, and flung himself around, and cried.

When you have a dog like this, how do you handle them? What else can we do to get him used to it? Do you have any tips we can try or suggest to our groomer? I feel guilty for making them cut his nails he's so bad for them =(


Dogs like these require a tremendous amount of restraining. Smaller dogs are, of course, easier to control but larger dogs require a few folks. I would suggest 2 people help you restrain (until you settle on a particular method that works for you and your dog)...one at the front of the dog and one at the rear. Hold those legs tight so they can't move around. (Have the dog lay down with someone laying on top of him if you think that would work better.) The third person can go about cutting the nails. If biting is a concern, buy a nylon muzzle such as this one:
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...0&iSubCat=0&iSubSubCat=0&iProductID=2521&AS=1

Always have a styptic powder on hand in case they bleed:
http://www.petedge.com/shopping/pro...t=0&iSubCat=0&iSubSubCat=0&iProductID=66&AS=1

Muzzles are a GREAT confidence booster. If a dog looks at me weird or is just not "right", I'll put a muzzle on them. I can work more efficiently and without concern when I know I can't be harmed. Some dogs just don't like certain parts messed with. It's as simple as that. You just have to do what you can to get the job done. Keep his "freaking" down to a minimum. (If dogs would just chillout then things wouldn't be nearly so traumatic for them...not to mention be over with a lot quicker.) Sometimes, when I'm working on a dog's foot or leg and they're pulling to get away from me, I keep a gentle but firm grip on them but let them struggle. When they stop, I then proceed with what I was doing. Any struggling will stop after a minute (seconds really) or so but it doesn't last long. Do what you can during these brief intermissions! If you keep at it it WILL get easier with each nail trimming session. If the dog is really freaking out then just do one foot at a time ( or one nail) instead of trying to do all four at once. (It's a lot easier for me to SHOW someone how to do these things than trying to explain via a keyboard. I wish I could be there to show you.) Good Luck! :thumbsup2
 
To everyone wishing to groom their own dogs....

NEVER try to groom them on the floor/ground! You must elevate them. Place them on a table or counter. Ya wanna know what I do? I have a front loading washer/dryer. I cover them with a plastic tarp and groom on top of them! I have these white wire shelves (for detergent etc) above them with loops built in. I tie a leash (like the complimentary kind you get at the vet's) to these loops as my restraint. If you try to groom you dog on the floor, you will fail. You have to raise them up. It'll also be MUCH easier for you! Don't "play" with them once you have them there either. This isn't playtime. They must understand that this is serious business now and they must be still. Once I finish my dogs I'll sweet talk them and get them excited ("Her so pretty. Are ya ready to go? Ya wanna go home? Where's ya mama at?"). It's like night and day. They KNOW what it means to be here. They KNOW what's required of them. They also know when it's ok and time for play. YOU are in control. Don't let them run the show or you'll be right back at your local groomer's because your dog has you wrapped around their little, um... toe.
 
I have a shih tzu... I try to keep up on the brushing because I don't like her shaved but what do you use for a conditioner... and also when I am brushing her, her hair gets a little static in it and it is hard to get some of the mats out... do you recomend a daily leave in conditioner or detangler when brushing. :confused3

I have a Cairn too-- boy is he a lot less work ;)
 
This is a great thread!

I'm probably about to get a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppy. My parents have 2 Cavaliers, but they bought their grooming equipment so long ago now that I don't even remember what they bought. Do you have any suggestions for what to use at home as far as brushes, tools to release mats, etc? We already have nail clippers, and I'm very comfortable with those, but I'm not sure what the best brushes are. Thanks!
 
My question is about my golden, who was just at the vet yesterday for a FOUL smelling hot spot - :crazy: . We have a creek in our yard now, and he spends alot of time in it, so we were thinking about shaving him for the summer. My 8 year old, of course, cries at the thought.....

What do you think? Could we just ask for some sort of really short haircut? Vet said a thorough weekly brush out should be okay - But I'm thinking cutting it would be better. How much would that cost? Thanks!!
 


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