• Controversial Topics
    Several months ago, I added a private sub-forum to allow members to discuss these topics without fear of infractions or banning. It's opt-in, opt-out. Corey Click Here

Should I sell my T2i for a K-r?

First off, just to clarify one thing that some people here have stated: On almost any camera ever built, there CAN be noise at ISO100. While the rule has always been to stick to the lowest ISO to avoid noise, and find the camera's 'native' ISO as a good starting point, there are many other factors that contribute to noise, and it is possible to find noise in low ISO shots.

Blue channel and green channel noise are the most likely types for many cameras - areas with those colors, viewed 100%, will most often show noise at low ISOs. It can be avoided, and generally isn't noticeable, but pump up a RAW photo to 100% with no noise reduction applied, and you can often find fine noise in a blank blue sky shot. That noise can be worse, or can be almost invisible.

Noise lives in underexposure. Underexpose a shot, or take a shot with significant underexposed areas, and there's a high likelihood of finding noise there, even when shooting at ISO100. Again, what some people refer to as 'no noise', others may refer to as 'unacceptable noise', and everything in between...some people are determined pixel peepers and blow up their photos huge and look at them on huge high res monitors, scouring for any trace of it, while others only notice noise when it's bad enough to show up at their normal viewing levels in some blank or neutral color area. But underexposure is a much bigger key factor in generating noise than just ISO. It's the reason some people can post ISO3200 shots that have extremely little noise, while someone else posts an ISO800 shot that looks like a bad 1970's TV with a broken rabbit-ear antenna. A perfectly exposed ISO3200 shot can look MUCH better than a poorly exposed ISO800 shot. Even ISO100, when underexposed, can start to reveal noise, though usually very small grained and faint, and easy to remove without damage to details.

The OP's shots are clearly underexposed...so noise wouldn't surprise me at all. If you don't think there is any such thing as noise at ISO100, simply type that into Google and see if anything comes up: "ISO 100 noise"). I'll give you a spoiler and let you know that the search WILL return results - and it will include posts about T2s, 7Ds, K5s, 1D3s, D7000s, D90s, A350s...you name it.

Sometimes the standard processing algorithms of the JPG engine in the camera will reduce or cover up the noise seen in the RAW...other times the JPG engine can actually create worse noise than the RAW...it all depends on the camera and the settings. If the photo has something like simple blue-sky noise, sometimes the JPG engine can clean it up a bit. If the shot is underexposed and the RAW still looks fairly noise-free, sometimes dynamic range optimizers, shadow boosters, highlight priority systems, etc built into cameras are applied to generate the JPG, and can boost noise that otherwise wasn't noticeable.
 
Noise lives in underexposure. Underexpose a shot, or take a shot with significant underexposed areas, and there's a high likelihood of finding noise there, even when shooting at ISO100. Again, what some people refer to as 'no noise', others may refer to as 'unacceptable noise', and everything in between...some people are determined pixel peepers and blow up their photos huge and look at them on huge high res monitors, scouring for any trace of it, while others only notice noise when it's bad enough to show up at their normal viewing levels in some blank or neutral color area. But underexposure is a much bigger key factor in generating noise than just ISO. It's the reason some people can post ISO3200 shots that have extremely little noise, while someone else posts an ISO800 shot that looks like a bad 1970's TV with a broken rabbit-ear antenna. A perfectly exposed ISO3200 shot can look MUCH better than a poorly exposed ISO800 shot. Even ISO100, when underexposed, can start to reveal noise, though usually very small grained and faint, and easy to remove without damage to details.

So true. This is the basis for shooting ETTR (Expose To The Right) ... overexpose your pic as far as you can without blowing highlights and then bring it down in post-prod. You'll get much less noise and, likely, much better pictures; generally better dynamic range and detail.

There's an additional technique they call HAMSTTR (Histogram And Meter Settings To The Right) over on the Canon boards that's essentially ETTR with pushing the overexposure with higher ISOs. You can, using this technique, get way less noise at high ISOs than you'd expect, especially if you normally aim for a "correct" exposure....

Here's a couple of links that explain it:
 
Here's two examples just to drive home the point on exposure...

Here's a shot UNDEREXPOSED, shot at ISO1600 in very low light conditions and left alone as a JPG straight from the camera:

original.jpg


Noise is very visible. It would be easily cleanable in post-processing, but still the noise was there in the native shot due to the extreme underexposure in low light conditions.

Now, same camera, but a good, bright exposure, this time at ISO3200, which should be even more noise than ISO1600, right?:

original.jpg


Wrong...because this one was properly exposed. The ISO level meant less than the proper exposure did for noise. This was also a JPG, straight from the camera, no post processing. There is very light noise visible, but notably less than the underexposed ISO1600 shot.

Exposure is key.
 


I am shooting with an 18-135 is and I didn't want to blow out the sky that's why itlooks underexposed I was nervous about overexposing
 
The 18-135 isn't known for it's spectacular image quality. It not a bad lens, but still on the low end of things. Were you zoomed all the way out or was the aperture wide open by any chance? Sometimes those things can add to IQ degradation. And zackidawg has an excellent point about noise and underexposure. I find it that really comes into play a lot when you try to push the exposure up in post or when you kill the blacks in an image to lighten it up some. Another thing that can make an image look really noisy really fast is oversharpening.

There are a lot of factors at play to get the final image.
 


I really appreciate all of the help and information. I guess I underexposed the image because everyone tells you not to overexpose and i didn't want the sky to be white
 
Does the T2i have a gradation setting? My Olympus cameras have this and I know if I set it to auto gradation, that while it will open up the shadows a bit the shadow noise can sometimes be a problem even at ISO 200. I keep it on normal gradation and don't experience noise problems at lower ISO's

This got me thinking on something for the OP to check into. Do you know if you have "Highlight Tone Priority" enabled??? I just read that this can bring out some noise in darker areas.

To find out (and if it's the same as on my T1i)... hit Menu.... scroll over to the 3rd Yellow icon, where you'll see "Custom Functions".... enter that... then scroll left/right until you see the option for "Highlight tone priority". If it's Enabled, it could be causing your problem.
 

GET A DISNEY VACATION QUOTE

Dreams Unlimited Travel is committed to providing you with the very best vacation planning experience possible. Our Vacation Planners are experts and will share their honest advice to help you have a magical vacation.

Let us help you with your next Disney Vacation!





Latest posts







facebook twitter
Top