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Need lens recommendations

Yzerbear19

I'm beautifully tragic - Elphaba (Wicked)
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
I got my first DSLR camera back in June. Its the Canon Rebel SL1. Right now I only have the kit lenses which are 18-55 mm STM and 75-300 mm. Before we go in December I want to get at least one more lens that will be great for dark rides. I was also thinking of getting a 50 mm lens. Would love any recommendations.
 
Anything with a fast aperture is ideal - preferably in the 24-35 mm range, and at least f/2. FYI: the 75-300 is not a kit lens for an SL1, it's a dedicated variable aperture telephoto and could only really be considered a kit lens on the 6D. Just because it's not expensive doesn't mean it's a kit lens. :)

The EF-S 24mm f/2.8 is one possibility (and a lens I wish was available for Nikon), or the EF 35mm f/2 IS, but usually with Canon you'll need to head over to Sigma for some of their primes.
 
Basically I think you best option would be to go with a 35mm or 50 mm prime....with a wide aperture (f/2) will give you the fast shutter speed you need, you will still more than likely need to bump up ISO since you will be handholding. I am not that familiar with Canon Line (Nikon Shooter) but I use my 35mm f/1.8 for these situations...works good for me.
 
I am not that familiar with Canon Line (Nikon Shooter) but I use my 35mm f/1.8 for these situations...works good for me.
I'm a Nikon guy as well, but Canon doesn't have a 35 f/1.8 for crop sensors in its lineup (Nikon also lacks an inexpensive 24mm DX prime, so there's that side of the coin as well). A 50mm lens on a crop sensor is far too long for most rides, 35 is better, and 24 is about ideal IME.
 


I got my first DSLR camera back in June. Its the Canon Rebel SL1. Right now I only have the kit lenses which are 18-55 mm STM and 75-300 mm. Before we go in December I want to get at least one more lens that will be great for dark rides. I was also thinking of getting a 50 mm lens. Would love any recommendations.

the 50mm 1.8 "nifty fifty" is good, all three versions MKI, MKII, STM, etc., The STM version is small and light and inexpensive (less than $100 used)

Another option is the Sigma 30mm 1.4 (both versions) the Sigma 30mm "non-art" is sharp and relatively inexpensive ($200 used)

Canon 60D
Sigma 30mm 1.4 non-art
f2.2


15711970906_5bb5cca946_b.jpg



50mm MK II 1.8
f2.5
ISO 800

Untitled by c w, on Flickr
 
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Bob 100, was the second photo taken in San Francisco, by chance? Those men look very familiar...
 
For the dark rides its mostly about the aperture. You have to get more light to the sensor and at the same time keep the shutter speed up because you are more than likely moving and shooting a moving target. For a crop sensor camera, you need to keep the focal length to 35mm or less. I'm not a Canon shooter so I will leave that to others for their recommendations, but in third party renditions there is the Sigma 30 f1.4 (two versions) and the Sigma 18-35 f1.8. There is also technique in shooting the dark rides. I will shoot in the burst mode and spot metering. I always shoot in center focus mode.
 


Sigma 18-35 1.8 is great for low light and around $799. It is the only zoom lens in the world with f1.8 normally restricted to primes. It's like having three 1.8 primes in one lens 18/24/35

The canon 35 f2iS is a very good lens and one of the only lens on a canon system better than f2.8 with image stabilization. It's around $599 and 35mm is great for your camera.

The 50 1.8 stm is a great lens at a good price but 50 is too tight for indoors and disney rides on your camera. Canon apsc cameras such as rebels, 70d, 7d have a 1.6 crop factor so 50 is 50×1.6= 80mm on your camera (and my 70d)

Some other good suggestions for cheaper are the pancake lenses. They are very small and barely weight anything. Perfect for walking around disney. The 24mm and 40mm stm are both f2.8 but don't have image stabilization. They are around $125 a piece

All around
In short I would recommend:
Canon 35 f2 iS for best all around prime (599)

Or
Cheap
Canon 24 mm f2.8 pancake for best cheaper option (125) f2.8 won't let in as much light as the others for darker rides

Or
Zoom
Sigma 18-35 f1.8 for best zoom (799) and make sure to choose canon mount
 
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What is a pancake lens?
A lens where the front of it sits very flush to the mount and protrudes very little from the camera body, making for a very compact package. Usually it uses a basic Zeiss-Tessar derived lens formula, with a moderately fast aperture (f/2.8 is pretty normal) and good optical performance. Here's the Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM as an example of a pancake: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_40mm_f_2_8_stm

Pentax is famous for making a slew of pancake lenses, to the point where they should probably also start producing maple syrup, but virtually all major lens makers have made at least a few: Nikon the 45mm f/2.8P and 1 Nikkor 10mm f/2.8, for instance.
 
Another vote for the Sigma 30mm (Art) 1.4. I have this lens and it is super-sharp and great in low light. But, make sure you buy it way before your trip and run it through its paces. Some copies are plagued with focus issues that extend beyond what adjustments in your camera can make. So you'll want to give yourself time to exchange/calibrate it if necessary. But once you get it right, it's an amazing lens for a crop.
 
Another vote for the Sigma 30mm (Art) 1.4. I have this lens and it is super-sharp and great in low light. But, make sure you buy it way before your trip and run it through its paces. Some copies are plagued with focus issues that extend beyond what adjustments in your camera can make. So you'll want to give yourself time to exchange/calibrate it if necessary. But once you get it right, it's an amazing lens for a crop.
The Canon SL1 lacks any AF adjustment options, so if it's off, it's off.
 
Touche! I forgot that not all cameras have that. All the more reason to test thoroughly, then!
The non-A Sigma 30 f/1.4 has a whole bunch of issues beyond even that, caused by inconsistency and a design intolerant of manufacturing tolerances. You can often end up with a poor corner, and a lens that will AF fine on the SL1 won't AF properly even with maximum micro adjustment on a 7D Mk II, and so on, based on the different AF systems and how they interact with the lens.

The newer Art series seems to have designed in the tolerances of Sigma's manufacturing and have many fewer of these issues, but is also much more costly.
 
I have the sigma 30 1.4 and it's my go to lens for indoor/dark shooting. The 50mm 1.8 is a great little lens for the pricebut like pp said it will be too tight on a crop sensor. I have the 7D and I rarely use my 50 (and I upgraded to the 1.4 version because I love that focal length) indoors now that I have the sigma 30. And it's the non-art version but it's tack sharp. Love that lens.
 
I have the sigma 30 1.4 and it's my go to lens for indoor/dark shooting. The 50mm 1.8 is a great little lens for the pricebut like pp said it will be too tight on a crop sensor. I have the 7D and I rarely use my 50 (and I upgraded to the 1.4 version because I love that focal length) indoors now that I have the sigma 30. And it's the non-art version but it's tack sharp. Love that lens.

yes, Sigma 30mm 1.4 non-art is good. The "focus issues" are mostly from those not realizing how narrow the DOF can be at larger apertures
 
yes, Sigma 30mm 1.4 non-art is good. The "focus issues" are mostly from those not realizing how narrow the DOF can be at larger apertures
This is (at least partially) incorrect: depth of field is not nearly as narrow as you're making it out to be. At 10 feet on the same crop body camera, the 30 mm at f/1.4 has the same depth of field as a 50 mm lens at f/4 (1.9' in either case). This is because focal length and focus distance has a far greater impact on DoF than lens aperture in most normal shooting situations. A 50 f/2 is more challenging to the AF system to nail focus than the 30 f/1.4, for instance.

The AF miss problem in the Sigma is because most camera's AF systems look through both sides of the lens at once to determine focus (that's how PDAF works, after all), and left to right or up an down the 30 f/1.4 can end up focusing in slightly different planes - and while all lenses do this to some extent, used older Sigmas were particularly egregious offenders. Both Canon and Nikon have longer throws from AF lens to AF sensor than does Sigma's DSLRs (Pentax falls somewhat in the middle), which show any lens imperfections from the factory as AF misses. Interestingly, the cheaper the Nikon camera (and possibly the same with Canon), the lesser the AF miss problem on certain lenses, because the AF system is only looking through the center of the lens in some cases.
 
If you have time to wait, Tamron just announced their 35mm F1.8 Di VC USD, which has their VC stabilization system as well as being a 35 f/1.8 optic - it may just be the best yet for dark rides (the VC can be important as it can isolate the vehicle's movements better).
 
If you have time to wait, Tamron just announced their 35mm F1.8 Di VC USD, which has their VC stabilization system as well as being a 35 f/1.8 optic - it may just be the best yet for dark rides (the VC can be important as it can isolate the vehicle's movements better).


Wow, that is really tempting. I can definitely see one of these making it into my collection. I love fast primes, and I know a lot of people don't need stabilization on primes, but I'm one who does much better with it.
 

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