Canon S3

Someone please look at these and tell me what I could have done with my settings to take better pictures. Thanks!

When I zoom far in natural light, I get this hazy type of picture.
IMG_0517.jpg


I think I'm getting too much light. The giraffe is almost reflecting the light?
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How can I make the wires disappear when taking this type of photo? I lucked out getting the camera to focus on the bird and not the wires.
IMG_0594.jpg


This one was taken through a glass enclosure. I caught some reflection in the glass. Any tips?
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Thanks to anyone who can help me. I plan to be much better at this by the time we get to DW!!:love:
 
Melanie,

I can offer advice for the bird and the tiger behind the glass. I am not too sure of the haze unless that tiger was behind glass too. That would do it for sure. The giraffe is overexposed. You will fix that problem when you go to AV, Tv and M modes.

The bird would be better, I think, if you back up away from the wires a bit. Were they close to you or very far away? I am assuming they were somewhat close. Try backing up. The focus is great for the bird though!

The tiger behind the glass is a tough one. You can try getting a polarizing filter with a lensmate adapter and it should get rid of the glare. However, the bigger problem here is your use of ISO 1600. The photo is VERY "noisy". I hope you don't mind, but I ran it through noiseware community edition and cleaned it up a bit for you. It looks much better. The glare is still there though. This pic is a great example of digital noise in a photo. Although that is not a good thing, it gives you a great idea of what it is.

Thats about all I have for advice. Not much, but I hope you get something out of it.

Andy

IMG_0585.jpg
 
Melanie,

I can offer advice for the bird and the tiger behind the glass. I am not too sure of the haze unless that tiger was behind glass too. That would do it for sure. The giraffe is overexposed. You will fix that problem when you go to AV, Tv and M modes.

The bird would be better, I think, if you back up away from the wires a bit. Were they close to you or very far away? I am assuming they were somewhat close. Try backing up. The focus is great for the bird though!

The tiger behind the glass is a tough one. You can try getting a polarizing filter with a lensmate adapter and it should get rid of the glare. However, the bigger problem here is your use of ISO 1600. The photo is VERY "noisy". I hope you don't mind, but I ran it through noiseware community edition and cleaned it up a bit for you. It looks much better. The glare is still there though. This pic is a great example of digital noise in a photo. Although that is not a good thing, it gives you a great idea of what it is.

Thats about all I have for advice. Not much, but I hope you get something out of it.

Andy

IMG_0585.jpg

Hey Andy - thanks for the tips. I will definitely have to play around with the av, tv stuff. The bird - I really wasn't that close - just good zoom I guess, but next time I will try a little farther away to see if it will help.

After I saw the jaguar pic with noiseware, I uploaded it and played with it. That program is AMAZING!!! By the way, how do you know what ISO I used? I didn't even know - its whatever came up when I took it. I noticed a lot of people who post pics on here seem to know exact settings for certain pics that were even taken long ago. ???? I feel stupid and confused.

The white tiger pic wasn't behind a glass. I get that hazyness a lot when I zoom far & I think it is just in natural (sun) light. I hope somebody will be able to tell me more about it. I like the suggestion of the polarizing lens though.

Thanks again!
 
Melanie,

If you are using Windows Explorer to view the web, you can download Opanda IEXIF. It is a free program that when you right click on a picture it will give you an option that is not there now. It will say "View EXIF/GPS/IPTC with IEXIF". If you click on that it will tell you what camer and what al the settings were for a picture. Some photo hosting sites strip this info, so it doesn't work for all pic, but I usually give it a try and see if it works. Most of us who use photobucket don't have the info stripped. It is real helpful info. You can also do it with any pics on your computer so you can go back and figure out what settings you used. Very helpful little program.

Andy
 
We just got an S3IS, but havent opened it yet. I cant wait to start taking pictures!!!!
 
I decided to trade in the Panasonic FZ8 for the S3. What accessories do I need to complete the camera?
 
I decided to trade in the Panasonic FZ8 for the S3. What accessories do I need to complete the camera?

I would say that you really don't need much at all. The best thing is to get used to it and then you can see what you actually need. Overall, there isn't much to buy for it anyways. A Lensmate barrel adapter with a circular polarizing filter would be nice but not at all necessary at this point. One thing I would recommend is a nice set or two of rechargable batteries and a larger capacity (not more than 2gb) SD card. Probably a faster one like the Ultra II cards. If you shoot alot, you will be thankful for them.

I guess that one other thing that I would recommend would be the shortcourse book or pdf download. It is extremely helpful and is much better than the manual that came with the camera, in my opinion. It is available here: http://www.shortcourses.com/store/canon-s3is.html
 
Hi friends. I have an S3 and love it, but sometimes I want a smaller camera to carry on day trips that will just fit in a small bag. I had a Canon PowerShot prior to the S3 which I still have and it always took great photos. I think it's days are numbered though...it's about 4 years old and sometimes these strange horizontal lines appear in the photos. Not very often, but they sure mess up the picture. Is that the camera dying?

Anyway, I'm thinking of getting some little camera for Christmas, to supplement my S3 on my more adventurous trips. I've seen a reallly small Olympus that looked good, but I would like some of your advice. Do any of you ever use a smaller camera? Something like my PowerShot would be okay, but the smaller the better.

TIA for any help you can give, and please excuse me for hijacking this great thread!!!!!!!!!! :)
 
Hi friends. I have an S3 and love it, but sometimes I want a smaller camera to carry on day trips that will just fit in a small bag. I had a Canon PowerShot prior to the S3 which I still have and it always took great photos. I think it's days are numbered though...it's about 4 years old and sometimes these strange horizontal lines appear in the photos. Not very often, but they sure mess up the picture. Is that the camera dying?

Anyway, I'm thinking of getting some little camera for Christmas, to supplement my S3 on my more adventurous trips. I've seen a reallly small Olympus that looked good, but I would like some of your advice. Do any of you ever use a smaller camera? Something like my PowerShot would be okay, but the smaller the better.

TIA for any help you can give, and please excuse me for hijacking this great thread!!!!!!!!!! :)
Some of these asking the same question as you.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=388226

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=389863

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=383248

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=384660


A site for canon point & shoots.
http://www.dcresource.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10


lots of info here
http://www.dcresource.com/forums/index.php


Hope this helps. :)
 
Someone please look at these and tell me what I could have done with my settings to take better pictures. Thanks!

When I zoom far in natural light, I get this hazy type of picture.

Does this happen *all* the time at full zoom? The camera should be just as sharp at full zoom as full wide-angle (adjusting for atmospheric conditions).

I don't know if it was hazy in the zoo when you took this, so you should do a test on a clear sunny day.

Set the camera in P mode and the ISO to 80. Then, try taking a couple pictures of a brick/block wall from about 25-50 yrds away ... wide angle and full zoom ... if the zoomed picture is blurry or hazy compared to the WA, there might be a problem with your camera and you should return it for a new one.

I think I'm getting too much light. The giraffe is almost reflecting the light?

Absolutely, this is what's called blown highlights. The giraffe was very bright (in the sun) but the camera exposed for the leaves/background leaving you with a blown out giraffe and ground.

This is a good situation to use a different metering mode (Center-weighted or Spot would have helped, here, aiming right at the giraffe).

Or, try Exposure Locking. Aim the camera at the *brightest* part of the scene (the sun-lit dirt, in this case) and half-press the shutter ... when the camera beeps and displays the settings in the LCD/EFV, while still holding the shutter button half-pressed, press the ISO button with your right thumb. A '*' will appear in the EVF/LCD ... now, recompose your scene and fully-press the shutter button. The leaves/background will be darker, but the giraffe will be well-exposed.

How can I make the wires disappear when taking this type of photo? I lucked out getting the camera to focus on the bird and not the wires.

This is *very* tough to do with a camera like the S3. Small sensor cameras have a very large DOF (Depth of Field: the area in front and behind the actual point of focus that's still sharp) and the wires were still within the DOF.

I can think of three things:
1) switch to Av mode, wide angle, set it to 2.7 ... the wider the aperture, the narrower the DOF.
2) depending on how far the bird was from the wires, you could try getting very close to the wires in Macro mode; it's got a much shallower DOF.
3) Also, if WA/2.7 didn't solve the problem, you can use more zoom (like max.) from a greater distance and Av mode set to 3.5 (largest aperture at full zoom). The DOF is shallower at full zoom than full WA.

However, to reliably make wires/cages disappear you need a DSLR, with its large sensor, and a large aperture lens (like a prime or an expensive 2.8 zoom).

This one was taken through a glass enclosure. I caught some reflection in the glass. Any tips?

The best want to get rid of glass reflections is with a polarizer (linear or circular both work on an S3 and linear is cheaper!) ... you need a lens adapter to attach the filter to the camera and then you rotate the polarizer until the reflected image goes away.

You can also try shooting at an angle to the glass, but it isn't always possible to avoid glass reflections without a polarizer....
 
Thanks for the links S.C. And thanks to everyone for letting my hi-jack for a few minutes!! Back to the photos....:goodvibes
 
Nice photos, Madge. :goodvibes Was the last one taken from the Dolphin? (I have almost the same shot.)

Soupermom, I've pondered the same question. I know going from an HP to a Canon was confusing for me. I figured if I got another, smaller camera to carry around, I'd stick with a Canon so the technology would be similar. But then I solved my problem by finding a pocketbook I like that actually holds my S3 very well. I knew I'd miss the S3 if I didn't have it with me, and I wouldn't get better at using it unless I actually used it. So I bagged the smaller camera idea. I don't know if that helps you, but it's the way I felt about it, anyway.
 
Or, try Exposure Locking. Aim the camera at the *brightest* part of the scene (the sun-lit dirt, in this case) and half-press the shutter ... when the camera beeps and displays the settings in the LCD/EFV, while still holding the shutter button half-pressed, press the ISO button with your right thumb. A '*' will appear in the EVF/LCD ... now, recompose your scene and fully-press the shutter button. The leaves/background will be darker, but the giraffe will be well-exposed.

Ok, Stitch - you got me on this one. Why is it necessary to press the ISO button? I always thought you locked exposure by aiming the camera on the part of the scene where you wanted the exposure set, half-press the shutter and then re-compose the scene. I don't think I'm coordinated enough to half-press the shutter AND press the ISO button at the same time, all while holding the camera!:)

Or am I thinking of locking the focus?
 
Ok, Stitch - you got me on this one. Why is it necessary to press the ISO button? I always thought you locked exposure by aiming the camera on the part of the scene where you wanted the exposure set, half-press the shutter and then re-compose the scene.

Or am I thinking of locking the focus?

When you half-press the shutter, you're actually locking *both* focus and exposure ... so, if you meter off the sky and then want to recompose on something near-by you can end up with a very out-of-focus pic.

Pressing the ISO button allows you to completely release the shutter button, recompose on anything you want, and then take the picture (re-focusing as necessary) with the same exposure settings. You can even change the settings (shutter speed or aperture; it's called Program Shift) with the omni-button, without changing the overall exposure.

Here's a link to the on-line manual for it.

I don't think I'm coordinated enough to half-press the shutter AND press the ISO button at the same time, all while holding the camera!:)

It does take a little practice, but it's well-worth it. :thumbsup2 At first, you'll hit the FUNC and Custom buttons a bit, but after a little bit of time you'll find that the ISO button isn't too hard to locate.
 

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