Canon S3

[ukcatfan]

Using an auto modes will allow the camera to pick a higher ISO if it thinks it is necessary to get the shot. Higher ISO means more noise (grain). Try using the P, Tv, Av, or M modes and manually set the ISO to a lower setting. Another thing that you can do (and in my opinion always should do) is use a noise reduction software. I prefer Noise Ninja, but Noiseware has a free version. The main limitation of it is that you have to do one picture at a time.

Kevin

 

[mrtoadslastride]

Thanks Kevin! I should have mentioned in my first post that most of the pictures were taken during the daytime under fairly bright conditions. I also just checked and I used the sports mode on many of them. Could that cause the problem? My old camera is a 4 megapixel camera...could I just being seeing the difference between the 6 and the 4? I am not sure that I want to manually correct each photo. Is there a batch process?

Thanks again!

 

[ukcatfan]

Sports mode will often use a high ISO even if it is a bright day. It is trying to freeze the action. That means more noise.

If you want to do batch processing, I suggest the Noise Ninja standalone version. While it is not free, it is well worth the money. I batch process all of my pictures and then look for ones that I do not find acceptable. I then go back and do individual adjustments on those. NN works pretty well on its own, especially if you are able to load a camera profile.

Check here for more info: www.picturecode.com

 

[Kelly Grannell]

sports mode automatically switch the camera to ISO 400 (if not 800) to get the highest shutter speed possible.

There is a free noise reduction software from Imagenomic called Noiseware Community Edition. Can't remember whether it has the batch processing capability (I own the paid version and it does have batch process).

 

[fitzperry]

sports mode automatically switch the camera to ISO 400 (if not 800) to get the highest shutter speed possible.

There is a free noise reduction software from Imagenomic called Noiseware Community Edition. Can't remember whether it has the batch processing capability (I own the paid version and it does have batch process).

The free version doesn't do batch processing. As far as I can tell, you have to do one at a time. It's also resized some of the images I've processed with it, but I haven't had time to figure out why that happened.

 

[Kelly Grannell]

it's not resized. The image size (in bytes) is smaller because of the deletion of noise. Your file size WILL become smaller after cleaning.

 

[fitzperry]

it's not resized. The image size (in bytes) is smaller because of the deletion of noise. Your file size WILL become smaller after cleaning.

Aha! Thanks! I thought maybe it did that because it was free!

ETA: After thinking about that for a second, I would have assumed that the software would change the noise pixels to match the surrounding area--like cloning. Does it actually delete the pixels?

 

[mrtoadslastride]

Thanks guys!! I will give the free version a shot, but I think I will end up with the paid so that I can do batch jobs.

Thanks for the info on the Sports mode Kelly! The reason I took so many with that mode is because I was tired of turning on the continuous mode each time I turned the camera on. One of the reasons we went with the S3 was because of its relatively fast 3 frames per second. We have an active 3 year old and we were just missing too many shots. There is a custom mode on the camera. Can I set that to always use the continuous shooting mode? I understand ISO…just not necessarily when to use what setting so that will be a challenge for me.

 

[JR6ooo4]

I use noise ninja software. It will auto profile the image and remove the noise all with one button. It also allows manual control as to what noise is removed and from the overal picture or just certain color channels. It will do batch processing as well.

I am sure they have a trial version as well.

Mikeeee

 

[Kelly Grannell]

Aha! Thanks! I thought maybe it did that because it was free!

ETA: After thinking about that for a second, I would have assumed that the software would change the noise pixels to match the surrounding area--like cloning. Does it actually delete the pixels?

It's more like cloning.

 

[MickeyCrazed]

I'm embarassed to say I purchased a Canon S3 about a month ago and haven't even touched it yet!

So, I know I have to buy some filters and a camera bag. Does anyone have any recommendations? Also, can you think of any other "must haves" that I should splurge on?

Oh, and how do I create those awesome infared shots? Are they even a possibility with the S3?

I need to hurry up, and get up to speed with this camera so I am ready for my October WDW trip!

Thanks in advance!

 

[JR6ooo4]

To start you need a second set of rechargeable batteries and lots of memory.

Since the lens cap will not stay on when the camera is on I reccomend a good UV filter, for protection only. Don't get the best buy $13 version.

A polarizing filter helps cut glare and helps color saturation. Especialy in the hash noon sunlight. Again a cheap one will affect your picture quality. But the canon S series lens diameter is medium size so it won't be as pricey as me having to pay $120 for a 72mm PF for my rebel XT.

Mikeeee

 

[Kelly Grannell]

for me it's about "W I D E A N G L E" (yes, that wide) so I'd buy wide-angle adapter. Athough a tad pricey, get the original Canon wide-angle lens but NOT the adapter tube, get that from eBay for far cheaper (unless your Canon dealer can get it close to eBay prices)

PS: to use the UV filter, polarizing filter etc, you'll need that tube adapter anyway.

 

[JR6ooo4]

PS: to use the UV filter, polarizing filter etc, you'll need that tube adapter anyway.

Why is that? I want to get a UV for protection on DW's S2.
Thanks in advance,

MIkeeee

 

[makinorlando]

Why is that? I want to get a UV for protection on DW's S2.
Thanks in advance,

MIkeeee

There's no way to screw the filter on without the adapter tube. You have to take off the rim that is on the camera around the lens, snap on the adapter tube and screw on the filters. I use a tube and filter to protect my lens 99% of the time... sometimes if I am taking pics around the house I don't have it on.

 

[Kelly Grannell]

as far as I can remember, all S1/S2/S3/A80/A90/A95/A610/A620 don't have threads in front of the lens, however the ring at the base of the lens can be taken off (technicaly it's called "bayonet mount") and you put the 58mm adapter and then buy whatever filter you want to use and for wide-angle lens, get original Canon Wide Converter WC-DC58

For multi coloured filters (warming filter, cooling filter, magenta filter), you don't need to buy them, refer to lesson 15 in my Learn Photography thread (2nd link in my signature) and save yourself at least $100 (if you're buying the garden-variety filters.

 

[mrtoadslastride]

I went out tonight and took several test pictures. The sun was out and I played with all the ISO settings. There was definately more noise at 400, and 800 was basically unusable (which matches the reviews I read before I bought the camera). Are there any guides for when to use the particular ISO settings. I know you typically usually move to 200 and above in darker settings, but I also noticed that pictures of my daughter were a little soft when she was moving at 80 or 100.

 

[Kelly Grannell]

the softness can be due to focus or movement. For guide in focusing, you can refer to how to focus lesson provided in the second line of my signature.

If it's due to movement (to slow of a shutter speed), bump up the ISO.

Sometimes I have to bump the ISO quite high even outdoors (ISO 800) just to get 1/3200 shutter speed.

 

[mrtoadslastride]

It was because of movement (she is 3 and is always on the run!). So then go with the higher ISO and use software to reduce the noise? Thanks for your help!!

 

[Kelly Grannell]

no problem.