Oh, I never meant bland, just not blisteringly hot. Now that I don't live in Louisiana any more, I find that in the rest of the country, if it is labeled "Cajun", it is guaranteed to make your nose run within the first minute -- they think that "Cajun" means so much cayenne that it has to hurt. That was never the norm in most foods when I was growing up. (We used cayenne, of course, but not so much that it made your nose run -- unless you had a cold and wanted it to, LOL.)
Of course, midwesterners who eat at my house often tell me that my cooking is spicy, but I don't see it that way because it is what we are used to. I don't even make gumbo for guests anymore unless I know that they are familiar with it, because they have a tendency to develop intestinal distress. (I was really embarassed by this when I first left Louisiana because I didn't know why it was happening. *I* was eating the same food and not getting sick, but my cooking was making people sick, as if I were not following proper hygiene standards. I finally got the answer: initial exposure to cayenne kills off certain intestinal flora; if you are not used to cayenne, the first time that you eat any quantity of it, it wll do this to you and cause diarrhea.)
PS: Just for fun, where's your traditional North/South line? We always put it at just a little north of Lecompte. Alexandria was definitely on the "Yankee" side of the line.
PPS: BTW, I never addressed the OP's original question. IME, NOLA is the kind of place that very few people can be neutral about: you either love it or hate it. Even among my siblings we divide right down the middle; two of us love the place, and two of us hate it. (Louisiana we all love, though we know she definitely has her glaring faults. Living elsewhere for a while now, I see them all too clearly, but I'll always miss the culture, and I go to great lengths to be sure that my kids know and cherish it, too.)