Now it was decision time. We needed to get back to Kula for the night. We could either turn around and go back the way we came--through Hana, the 620 curves, 52 one-lane bridges, and all that--or keep going around the south side of the mountain.
We had consulted the guidebook. It argued for continuing around the mountain. After all, you already saw the road to Hana. Why not see something new? Hard to argue with that.
Unless, of course, your car rental agreement prohibits driving on this road. Here, the guidebook argued that most rental agreements prohibit you from driving the car on unimproved roads. But what does that mean? The road on the south side of Haleakala is dirt/gravel for a few miles, but it is regularly graded by state forces, cleared when needed, and the pavement gets patched. Sounds like improvements to me. If the agreement says you can't drive on unpaved roads, it's a little less gray. But then again, there are dirt roads all over the island. The agent at the counter had not forbidden me from driving on any roads when going over the paperwork with me.
Even if you do drive on an unimproved road, violating the agreement most likely means they won't come rescue your sorry behind and you're paying for repairs. Which your current insurance often covers anyway.
Fortunately for us, there was a very temporary service available from a group called
Deus Ex Machina where we could arrange to have someone drive the rental car back around the other way to Kula for us while we borrowed a different vehicle that was approved for all roads to continue the drive. I don't have the details on it with me, but it sure worked out great.
So, we continued on in our new improved vehicle. If you thought the Highway to Hana looked like a tough ride, this was the Highway to H-E-Double Hockey Sticks. At a certain point on this road, the regular, consistent paving stops. I don't know why it stops where it does, but in its place is ancient, crumbling pavement littered with thousands upon thousands of poor patching jobs.
We rumbled, bumbled, and stumbled our way through a couple of miles of this, and then things got really hairy. If the previous drive had run along the edge of the coast, well, this road was literally cut into the side of a cliff:
We drove around hairpin turns in this manner, bouncing all over the place. At one point, and I wish we'd been quick enough on the draw to get a picture, we crossed a bridge that had railings made of (I'm not making this up) PVC pipe. I'm sure thats crash-worthy, right? I offered to turn around and go back to get a picture of it, but for some reason Julie didn't want to. At least, I think that's what her shrieking meant.
Actually, we had a good case of the giggles going in the car at this point, just marveling at how bad the road was. We'd turn the corner and see another piece of road jutting out from the cliff and just laugh about the fact that we actually had to drive on that.
There was a minivan driving ahead of us. Somewhere along the drive, we had to crest a ridge. We drove up the hill, watching the van climb ahead. As we got to the top of the hill, the van plunged down the other side...
...and
dropped completely out of sight.
We paused at the top, in silence. I figured it was probably a good idea to make sure the van re-appeared before we tried it. Sure enough, we spotted it below and started laughing again. Then we continued over the ridge, the only way we knew how--with hands raised in the air! Laughing all the way down.
Yup, the driver too. I mean, at this point, why not? I made some kind of comment about how this was what our vacations were all about--the kids would never, ever forget driving this road.