If my husband were to have an official bucket list, visiting Cinque Terre would likely have been in the top 5 "must-sees". Real excitement about this cruise on his part did not start until I mentioned to him that Cinque Terre was a convenient (and short) train ride from the port of La Spezia. Where we'd be sailing to. On our cruise. Hello?
Ok, he was hooked. Now, how to see it and what to do? What about our daughter? Could she hike it? Did we want to hear her complain about the hike and how hot it was?
So, yesterday's jaunt to Rome was still fresh in our minds and weary in our bodies. This would be our 5th port in as many days, and we were a bit tired. In spite of the fact that the 1st tender to the dock was at 0730, we decided we'd sleep in a bit, have breakfast with DD, then check her into the kid's club so we could fulfill DH's bucket list item sans child. Unfair? Maybe. But not knowing the terrain, we didn't want to find out that we'd have to lug her along the trail.
So finally off the boat, we see the port:
Looking back at the Magic:
We knew (from Rick Steves guide book, of course
) That we'd have to walk thru La Spezia to the train station. What we didn't realize was how far that was. A mile. At least. And there was construction, so we had a bit of a time finding the entry to the station. In the meantime, we missed the 11:30 train and had to kill some time. Oh...knowing that we were short on Euros, we took the time to use an ATM along the way. No issues at all. So what do you do when you're tired and have time to kill? Get coffee!! Mmmmm...oh, and water to bring with us on the trail. Oh, and figure out how to buy our tickets. Maybe it was a good thing we missed the train?
So we got our Cinque Terre Treno tickets, filled in our names on the back, and stamped them in the box on the platform as directed. There's no price listed on the tickets that I saved, but it wasn't very expensive. We looked at the monitor:
And figured out which platform we needed to be on:
And boarded the train hoping that we hadn't screwed it up. We ended up talking to an expat on the train that confirmed that we were going the right direction. It was nice to have reassurance that we weren't going to have to turn around at the next stop.
Ok, so at this point, it's noon, and feeling a little guilty leaving DD on the ship, we decided that we weren't going to push it as far as hiking all 5 towns. Had we gotten our rears in gear that morning and gotten out earlier, that would have been another issue, but we figured there needed to be pool time for DD as payback. So looking at the train schedule, we figured that we could go to the 3rd town, Corniglia, and hike back thru Manrola to Riomaggiore to take the 4-ish train back to La Spezia.
So, Corniglia is the highest and most set-back town of the 5. Once you hit the train station, you have the option of either taking the shuttle to the top or hiking up the stairs. We decided that we would only take the shuttle if it happened to be RIGHT THERE when we got off the train. It was!
So here's some perspective:
The staircase:
And what's at the top of the staircase:
We found a LOT of humor in that, considering what we do for a living!!!
After wandering the town a bit, we found our way down the staircase and off to Manrola:
The views? Un-Freakin-Believeable!! The stuff movies are made out of! Another holy-mazoley I've seen this on TV and now I'm here moments!
See the staircase above? Thats what we walked down. So for those of you that aren't obsessed with Cinque Terre, it has been made into a National Park. As you hike, there are occasional booths that you have to show your tickets at.
Once upon a time, the only way to get from one town to another was by boat.
Which is another way to see the 5 towns, but not a method of transportation tried by us. By only going to the 3rd town, we missed the 2 far more rugged trails, reputed to take about 90 minutes each to traverse. Kind of a bummer, but oh well, some is better than none, right? I did take us about 60-90 minutes to hike from Corniglia to Manrola, but the terrain was not difficult in the least for us. Hot, yes. But not hard. There was cute little old British guy on the trail that we said hi to, and found out that he's been hiking all 5!
We stopped in Manrola to get some lunch. We ate at Trattoria Il Porticciolo, as recommended in the guidebook, and had an amazing pasta lunch. And LOTS of water. We tried the free glass of sciacchetra that came with the meal if you showed the guide book. It's a dessert wine, and neither of us cared for it....too sweet for us. Our pasta was a potato/pasta mix. It has a name that I can't remember, but it's not a gnocchi. It different. And we had pesto over it. YUM!
We continued on to Riomaggiore. The easy walk between these 2 towns has been nicknamed the Via D'Amore, as young adults would walk this road to rendezvous with other young adults from the neighboring town. As a result, a tradition occurred that people would bring locks to this road and "seal" their love by locking it here:
Where we've come from:
Riomaggiore:
Made it to the train station on time:
We got back to the ship and headed for the pool. The ship was empty. We'd beaten the crowds coming back from Florence and Pisa. I grabbed the small camera on the way to the pool..DH made fun of me asking what I'd need that for....and we found: