I'm not familiar with all the features of your model, but here goes.
Blur could be due to inproper focus. If you're too close for the camera to focus, then either move back or switch to macro mode. If the light is too dim for autofocus to work, then switch to manual focus.
Blur could also be caused by motion. Two main causes of motion blur are 1) camera shake by the photographer, and 2) a moving subject.
You can combat camera shake by using a tripod (or other stable surface). If you must hand-hold the camera, do NOT hold it out in front of you, looking at the LCD screen at the back. That is the least steady position. Instead, look through the viewfinder (believe it or not this helps steady the camera), tuck your elbows in close to your body, steady yourself (lean agains something stable or stand with legs at shoulder lengh and one foot slightly in front of the other) inhale, and in one smooth motion press and hold the shutter release button (don't jab at it.) until the picture is done. There's a simple formula for what the minimum shutter speed should be to prevent camera shake from ruining the images. The formula is based on the focal length you're using, and since p&s cameras usually reflect focal length as an "x-factor", rather than a specific mm measurement, I suggest that you start out by test-shooting with a minimum shutter speed of 1/125 sec. If those shots come out okay (after viewing them full sized on the computer screen; don't judge their sharpness based on the camera's tiny LCD screen), then you can try using a slower shutter speed (1/100 sec, 1/80, 1/60, etc) to see how slow you can hand-hold the camera. Conversely, if your hands are too "shakey" at 1/125 sec, then increase the shutter speed (1/250 sec, etc) and remember the slowest shutter speed you're able to hand-hold reliably. The more zoom you use in the camera, the faster your shutter speed will need to be when hand-holding. For instance, you may be able to hand-hold reliably at 1/60 sec when your taking a wide-angle (zoomed out) picture, but you may need to use a faster shutter speed of 1/250 sec when hand-holding at close-up (zoomed in) pictures. You can set the shutter speed by using the camera's Manual mode or the Shutter Priority mode.
In the previous paragraphs I talked about minimum shutter speeds for hand holding the camera. Those speeds assume that you're photographing a motionless scene or subject and that you're stabilizing yourself and the camera in the best possible way. When photographihg moving subjects, you'll need to use shutter speeds even faster (at least double) what you would to combat camera shake. For moving subjects, I suggest a minimum shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/250 sec. The faster the subject is moving and the closer you are to the subject (or the more you're zoomed in), the faster the shutter speed will need to be (for sports try 1/500). When you increase the shutter speed, the shutter is open for a shorter period time, so less light enters the camera, and your pictures may appear too dark (underexposed). You can compensate for this by either using a wider aperture, increasing the ISO setting, or adding more light to the scene. In Manual mode, you can set the aperture directly (the smaller the f-stop, the larger the aperture, so f/3.5 is a larger aperture and lets in more light than f/11). In shutter priority mode the camera will automatically set the aperture based on the shutter speed you selected, but if the camera's judgement is incorrect you can use Exposure Compensation to adjust the aperture. ISO is its own separate setting. The highter the ISO setting, the more sensitve the camera will be to light. So, ISO 800 is more sensitive (and the image will appear brighter) than ISO 200. As you increase the ISO, image noise (little grainy spots of color) increases, especially in the dark parts of the imgage (like shadow) and can ruin the image. Some times you have no choice but to accept the noise...it may be better to get a noisy image than a blurry image or no image at all. The noise on point and shoot cameras are typically very bad at ISO settings above 400. Noise isn't as much an issue when images are printed at 4x6 than when they're printed large or viewed on-screen. In addition to, or instead of using a larger aperture or higher ISO, you can add light to the scene. Adding light to the scene can be as simple as using flash, turning on lights in the room, or relocating the subject to another room, very near a window, or outside. While on the subject of light, I'll point out that the average indoor home is very dimly lit. Even with all the lamps turned on, it's dim, although we don't usually perceive it that way. The human eye and brain automatically compensates for changing light levels (and light color), but the camera sees how much (or how little) light there truly is in a scene. It's important to understand this, so you can understand why indoor images or images in the shade come out dark and/or blurry without flash. It's also important to understand the concept of light falloff. The inverse square law says that as you double your subject's distance from a light source, the amount light reaching the subject from that source decreases to just a quarter of what it was before. So, if you're using the preferred light from a north-facing window (the sun isn't shining directly through the window, but indirect light from the sky is entering), your subject should be very close to the window. A small change in distance, even just moving just a foot or two away from the window, can result in a significant decrease in the amount of light hitting the subject, and, thus, you'd need to change your exposure settings.
