Plz help me out of auto blues

Mickee

Mouseketeer
Joined
May 20, 2005
Messages
396
Had the Xt for 3 months.
Have the ..can I say say this. :confused3 The Kelly, plus the 85 1.8,new addition is the 430 speedlite. Only reason I bought this (430)was I did not like all the shadows and the not so flash that the built in flash put out.Not sure if this will help, but I am sure it will.

I find myself in auto most of the time.The portion I am not, I am unsure why I am there.

If Kelly was here I'm sure I would be told if I wanted a point & shoot, why didn't I just buy a Kodak :furious: (he..he... LOL)..as much as I appreciate honesty & candor, I am looking for an education.

Plz help with advice on the next step.

Going on a cruise soon, need a crash course, PLZ help.



Signed,
Ready & Willing to learn. :crazy:

P.S. THANK YOU!
 
Use Av mode. It allows you to choose the DOF.

Use Av and lowest aperture then just watch the shutter speed. If you are shooting a still subject, try to keep the shutter faster than 1/60. If it is longer, then bump up the ISO. to 200, 400 even 1600.

If you are shooting moving subjects then the shutter must be much faster. Like 1/200 or 1/300.

Using Av lets you control one variable so you only have to watch two others. THe shutter speed and the ISO.

Then set the review info to histogram so you can see the graph. Anything over the top of the graph is bad. ou want a nice bell curve. and if the sides of the bell get clipped then that is not ideal also.

take a shot on auto then take many on Av to see if you can do better. My cam is always on Av mode at the parks.

Mikeeee
 
I leave my 10D on "P" most of the time.

If I don't like the basic exposure it's easy to turn the rear dial and move it up or down.
If I don't like the shutter speed or aperture it's easy to move both together with the top wheel (leaving the basic exposure the same).
In this way I have control over three variables (but not ISO) with very little action required, and the camera is still actually on "auto".
 
I've only had mine for 4 months so no expert here, but mine has been on "P" most of the time. Just always remember to check the ISO, especially moving from indoor to out. I'm still fuzzy on aperture so I don't touch that much. but I also use "Tv" when I'm taking sports or fast action shots.

Sue from Boston
 

spoon2003 said:
I'm still fuzzy on aperture so I don't touch that much.
Sue from Boston

aperture is the size of the hole letting light into the lens. It was hard for me to rememebr because it seems backwards

A small number means a big hole ~ big number means a small hole

But it also affects the Depth Of Field ~ how much is in focus forward and behind the focus point.

Small number is small DOF ~ large number is large DOF

If you think of it that way then all you have to remember is a small number lets in the most light which is useful for low light shots. more light means a faster shutter so more action stopping ability.

I think it is easier to use than shutter Time mode. But either will give you help from the cameras computer. As apposed to full manual.

Mikeeee
 
I also use P quite a bit on my D50. This gives you control over ISO. Use A or Av when you want a different look with depth of field; f/1 to 5.6 are your shallow depth of fields, large opening to let lots of light in. Your subject will be in focus and the backgroud will be out of focus, also good for low light situations, will help get a faster shutter; f/5.6 to f/11 are your "who cares?" apertures, basically when everything in your composition is at the same distance and you have good light; f/11 to f/32 are your focus apertures, smaller hole for the light to come through (like when you see someone squinting to focus on a subject), this is when you want to show everything in focus giving great depth of field, not really good for low light as you'll a slower shutter. In A or Av, the camera will choose the shutter based on your choice of aperture.

Use S or Tv when you want more control over movement. Fast shutters 1/300th and up will "freeze" action. 1/60th to 1/250 are basic shutters for stills or other non moving subjects. 1/30th and slower a tripod is recommended (unless you have a VR or IS lens, then you can get down to about 1/10th handheld). In S or Tv, the camera will choose the f/stop for you.

Manual is you do everything, like for fireworks at Disney choose your own shutter and aperture and don't pay attention to the camera's meter.

This is just some very basic stuff. Hope it help. I really would recommend you pick up a copy of "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson (I got mine at amazon for about $20). He does an outstanding job of explaining the relationship of light and shutter and aperture and ISO. Excellent examples and very easy to understand. I'm much more comfortable now using M, P, S (aka Tv) and A (aka Av). I haven't used AUTO or any of the preprogramed icon's.
 
JR6ooo4 said:
Small number is small DOF ~ large number is large DOF

IfMikeeee

Small DOF - smaller area in focus?
Large number - larger area in focus?


This is the part that I'm still working on in my head!
 
makinorlando said:
Small DOF - smaller area in focus?
Large number - larger area in focus?


This is the part that I'm still working on in my head!
When I think of area I think left-right, up and down. DOF is better explained (in my head) by distance.

large number = many rows of a family portrait in focus

small number = only one face in focus

Mikeeee

but again, my head works differently
I think california is earlier than chicago. When it is 4 pm here in chicago it is 2 pm there!
 














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