Pineapple Profile

dandave

The more I travel, the more I appreciate coming ho
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Pineapple

I became interested in growing pineapple after going through "The Wonders of Life" ride in Epcot with my mother at the beginning of February. I think it's called the WOL, anyway. It's the boat ride through the hydroponics garden, in any case.
Mother was amazed at the pineapple and expressed her interest. So, I soon found myself trying to grow her a pineapple.
The first one I tried was a complete bust. I had gotten it from dear son's classroom. Someone had sent in a fruit tray for a party we were having, and the pineapple crown was a decoration. The teacher gladly gave it to me at the end of the party. All the leaves turned browned very quickly after being planted in soil, however. I decided to try it again.
I went to a local Publix and asked the produce manager if he had any pineapple tops (crowns). He didn't have any, but I told him what I wanted them for and he cut two off for me. Yay!
After pulling off the bottom leaves of the crown, I stuck these two in separate cups of water with a few drops of Triple Action 20. It's a fungicide type stuff that I get from the makers of Spray 'n Grow. I used it to prevent root rot. I've heard that you can use a few drops of plain old hydrogen peroxide in water to prevent rot and damping off, but I haven't tried it.
I set the cups in a window that gets plenty of light, and I changed their water once or twice. After a week or so, I moved them to the back porch. The next time I looked, there were a ton of roots coming out of the bottoms of the crowns. These weren't your normal little hairy roots, though. These were fat little wormy looking roots. I threw one of the crowns down very harshly, when I first saw these. They really do look like worms!
Well, they seemed to be doing fine, so I potted them up in a mixture of Black Kow and coconut coir in terra cotta pots. They got morning sun, but then shade for the rest of the day. I watered them sparingly which was easy, because they were on a side of the house which I have a tendency to forget about. Well, I checked on them recently. The leaves were turning brown and drying out terribly. I lifted them out of the soil, and the wormy roots had not grown one bit!
So, they are back in water, after having the dead, brown, leaf tips cut off. I also had to remove more of the leaves around the base, but I found more roots there. I fashioned a disposable bakery pie pan into a temp hydroponics type home, by cutting off the top and turning it upside down onto the bottom. I cut out holes for the crown stems and wrapped them so that they wouldn't fall in. I added some TA 20 for their first few days back in water. Then, I poured that out and set them back into water with a very little bit of Miracle Grow (actually it's the generic K Grow) mixed in.
The roots are very much there, but the tops are going nowhere. It has been rather cool here at night for a while. I know that it has gotten down into the 40's. Perhaps that is part of the problem. After re-reading my own link, pineapple likes a minimum of the 60's.

Here are a few links:

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/fruitveg/pneapple.htm

http://agrss.sherman.hawaii.edu/pineapple/pinegrow.htm
 
Bromeliad Society International : http://www.bsi.org/

What Are Bromeliads?

Bromeliads are members of a plant family known as Bromeliaceae (bro-meh-lee-AH-say-eye). The family contains over 2700 described species in approximately 56 genera. The most well known bromeliad is the pineapple. The family contains a wide range of plants including some very un-pineapple like members such as Spanish Moss (which is neither Spanish nor a moss). Other members resemble aloes or yuccas while still others look like green, leafy grasses.

In general they are inexpensive, easy to grow, require very little care, and reward the grower with brilliant, long lasting blooms and ornamental foliage. They come in a wide range of sizes from tiny miniatures to giants. They can be grown indoors in cooler climates and can also be used outdoors where temperatures stay above freezing.

Bromeliad History

Bromeliads entered recorded history some 500 years ago when Columbus introduced the pineapple (Ananas comosus) to Spain upon return from his second voyage to the New World in 1493. On that voyage he found it being cultivated by the Carib Indians in the West Indies. Within 50 years this tropical fruit was being cultivated in India and other Old World countries.
Click on the pineapple to view a terrific article on the symbolism of the pineapple.

It took some time for additional bromeliads to enter cultivation. It wasn't until 1776 that another bromeliad (Guzmania lingulata) was brought to Europe. Aechmea fasciata followed in 1828 and Vriesea splendens in 1840.

Within the last hundred years, bromeliads have become more widely used as ornamental plants. Originally only found in royal botanical gardens or the private greenhouses of wealthy Europeans, their popularity has spread to the masses. Today bromeliads are more available to the enthusiast than ever before. New species are still being discovered and plant breeders are developing ever more stunning hybrids to choose from.

Uses for Bromeliads

Although the pineapple is the only member of the family cultivated for food, several species including Caroa (Neoglaziovia variegata) are cultivated as a source of fiber. Pineapple stems are a source of the protein-digesting enzyme bromelain used as a meat tenderizer. Because fresh pineapple also contains bromelain, it cannot be used in gelatin molds since the enzyme breaks down the congealing proteins. Spanish Moss (Tillandsia usneoides) contains a tough, wiry core that was once used as a material for stuffing upholstery.

Where they Grow

Bromeliads are a Neotropical family which means they grow virtualy exclusively in the New World tropics (and subtropics). Most come from South America with the greatest number of species found in Brazil. They range from Chile and Argentina in South America through Cental America and the Caribbean reaching their northern limit aroung Virginia in the southeastern United States. A single species (Pitcairnia feliciana) is found in western Africa. Bromeliads altitude range is from sea level to over 14,000 feet. They can be found in a wide variety of habitats from hot, dry deserts to moist rainforests to cool mountainous regions.

They are found in a variety of growing situations: Terrestrial species are found growing in the ground (the way we expect most plants to grow). They may be found growing in bright sun along sandy beaches to the shady understory of a forest among the leaf litter and debris. Saxicolous species are found growing on rocks. They may grow on hard rocky outcrops where their roots may penetrate cracks and fissures to locate moisture or organic nutrients or sometimes they are found growing tenuously on sheer cliff faces. Epiphytic species are found growing on other plants, usually trees, shrubs or cactus but somtimes they can be found on telephone poles or even on the telephone lines themselves. This capability to take their nutrition and moisture from the atmosphere has earned these bromeliads the name "Air Plants".

How They Grow

All bromeliads are composed of a spiral arrangement of leaves sometimes called a "rosette". The number of degrees between successive leaves varies from species to species with a few having a 180 degree separation between leaves. This causes the plant to grow in a flattened configuration with its leaves lined up in a single plane. The bases of the leaves in the rosette may overlap tightly to form a water reservoir. This central cup also collects whatever leaf litter and insects happen to land in it. The more ancestral terrestrial bromeliads do not have this water storage capability and rely primarily on their roots for water and nutrient absorption. Tank bromeliads (as the water storing species are often called) rely less heavily on their roots for nourishment and are more often found as epiphytes. The roots of epiphytic species harden off after growing to form holdfasts as strong as wire that help attach the plant to its host. Even though bromeliads are commonly called parasitos in Spanish-speaking countries, these epiphytes do not take sustenance from their host but merely use it for support. In some species, the bases of the leaves form small chambers as they overlap and these protected spaces are often home to ants. In exchange for shelter, the ants' waste may provide the bromeliad with extra fertilizer.

All bromeliads share a common characteristic: tiny scales on their leaves called trichomes. These scales serve as a very efficient absorption system. In species found in desert regions where the air is hot and dry and the sun beats down relentlessly, these scales also help the plant to reduce water loss and shield the plants from the solar radiation. These plants are so covered with scales that they appear silvery-white and feel fuzzy. On many species (especially in more humid areas), the scales are smaller and less noticeable. Sometimes the scales can form patterns and banding on the leaves that add to the plant's beauty.

With few exceptions, the flower stalk is produced from the center of the rosette. The stalk (or scape as it is called), may be long with the flowers held far away from the plant (either erect or hanging pendantly) or the scape may be short with the flowers nestled in the rosette. The scape may produce a single flower or many individual flowers and may have colorful leaf-like appendages called scape bracts that serve to attract pollinators and delight bromeliad enthusiasts. With rare exceptions, bromeliads only flower a single time - once the plant stops producing leaves and produces its flower, it will not start making leaves again. It will, however, vegetatively produce new plantlets called "offsets" or "pups". These plants will feed of the "mother" plant until they are large enough to set roots ov their own and survive as a separate plant. The mother may sometimes survive a generation or two before finally dying off. Pups are usually produced near the base of the plant - inside the sheath of a leaf. Sometimes, however, pups may be produced on long stolons or atop the inflorescence (flower spike) of the mother plant. The green, leafy top of a pineapple is in fact a pup that may be removed and planted to start a new plant.
 
Starting a Pineapple Plant From A Pineapple
By John Atlee

http://www.bsi.org/

I got my first pineapple out of the garbage can in a grocery store in Pampa, Texas. I know that might sound strange but pineapples are just about the only Bromeliad of commercial value and the company "Dole" has made sure of that.

As far as I know there has been no definitive site given for the original discovery of pineapples in the new world. Who knows, maybe they were eaten by Columbus. It is thought they may have originated in the northeastern area of South America, near what is now known today as Guiana. There are several different pineapples besides the grocery store variety. At the moment I have an Ananas nana in bloom on top of my piano. It is one of the smallest, about 18 inches tall and growing in a 6 inch pot. One of the showiest pineapples is Ananas bracteatus, tricolor. When mature it is about 4-5 feet in diameter and about the same height. It flushes a brilliant pink at the base of its white and green striped leaves. It also has pink recurved spines so caution must be exercised when working around the plant.

Our commercial pineapple, Ananas cosmos, var. Smooth Cayene is the one most people are familiar with, but only in a can, as a fruit. As a fresh fruit these are easy to grow in most household environments. The trick is to get one rooted. Please take note: These plants, although almost spineless, will grow to about 4 ft. wide and 4 ft. in height when in bloom and fruiting. It will also take about 3 years or more to bring it into bloom and production and will require at least a 5 gallon nursery pot. It is a fairly uninteresting, plain green plant until it sends up its stalk right out of the center. It will then flush red and bloom blue flowers. After that it takes another 3 months to ripen. Surprisingly enough it will be just about the size of a can.

To grow a pineapple select a mature fresh fruit from your local grocery store or market. Grab hold of the entire top set of leaves. Twist hard and it will come out with a bit of stalk. (If the top has been cut off you will need to remove all of the excess fruit flesh. I do not recommend cutting with a knife. Just twist out the top as best you can. Otherwise it will only rot and may kill the whole plant.) Let the leafed stalk dry out for about 5 days. This will seal off any excess openings for disease and decay. Remove about 15-20 of the lower leaves by pulling them downward. They will come off in sort of a spiral fashion. The idea is to bare the stalk. You may notice some roots forming at the base of some of the leaves. These are important so try not to damage them.

At this point I often let the stalk dry for another couple of days but it is not absolutely necessary. I also lightly dust the small roots with a common commercial rooting compound containing a mild fungicide. The most common reason for failure, at this point, is when the stalk is planted it rots rather than roots. Anything you can do to prevent this will be of value.

On my first potting I use my regular Bromeliad potting mix. (2 parts commercial peat based mix, plus 1 part perlite to promote drainage) I use a standard 6 inch azalea plastic pot. (These are shorter than the geranium pots. I don't think it really matters.) I place the pot where there is good indirect light and where the pot and potting mix will be warm and stay moist but not wet. It will take about 6-8 weeks for the stalk to really start sending out strong roots. Do not rush this process. I often leave the plants there for 3 months or longer. I do not fertilize at this point.

When new growth begins to appear, it will be a lighter green. You will need to repot the plant into a larger container. I move the plant up to a 1 gallon nursery pot. This will give more room for root development. I use my regular potting mix but I use less perlite. These Bromeliads are terrestrials and will need the more compact, water holding, potting mix. I move the plant into as much direct sunlight as I can provide. During the summer I put the pots outside on the unshaded patio and bring them in for the winter. They need at least 6 hours or more of direct sunlight. It is also important that they never completely dry out. Then again, they must never sit in soggy soil. I leave the plant this way for at least one year. Fertilize carefully and only about once a month during the peak of the growing season.

After one full year of growth I pot the plant into a five gallon pot using a compost enriched, but well draining potting mix. It should contain some good soil. This will provide many of the necessary trace elements. At this point it is very important to have a nutrient rich mix. It is also very important to make sure the mixture drains well. There is always a risk of root rot in a mixture that does not drain well.

Rot is commonly caused by over watering or the soil not draining properly. If the plant stops growing at this point take the plant out of the pot and examine the root structure carefully. They should be firm and solid. If necessary wash off the old potting mix and repot into fresh mix. I've had to do this more than once so don't feel bad if it happens to you. Just watch the plant carefully. It should only stop growing during the winter months. It will put out new growth all during the early spring and summer well into fall. It will also become huge so allow plenty of room. It will really grow to four or more feet in diameter.

This five gallon pot is the last potting. I usually figure one full season in this size. The following year it will throw its stalk well above the foliage. It is an amazing site to behold. Almost the entire stalk will take on red tinge. The bracts under the top will be bright red. The top will swell with many small sections and a light blue flower will emerge from each.

These flowers only last one day but there will be many to enjoy. (Throw a pineapple blooming party and serve all your Bromeliad recipes.) After all the flowers have opened and closed it will take 3-4 months for the fruit to mature and ripen. Keep the plant well watered. I have found they are almost, but not quite, as sweet as a commercially gown pineapple. There will be a few new plants to emerge during this last year. There may be one or two from the lower foliage along with several at the base of the fruit. Let these grow as large as possible before you remove them to start the process all over again.

There are seven different kinds of pineapples listed. Many of the suppliers on the BSI page have some of them available. Try to grow a variety of them. They are all edible when mature and ripe. Good luck and good growing.
 
Wow Dandave, this is awesome! :)

I have to say that I admire your pineapple growing perserverance...especially after reading about the fat wormy looking roots...yikes!!! :eek:

How long do you think you'll keep at it?

I sometimes wonder how things get their names. For example, the Spanish Moss, which as you noted, is neither Spanish, nor moss.

Thank you so much for putting this together! It makes for some very interesting reading. :)

BTW, I noticed you're promoting visits to the F&G board..lol. Good for you!! :) Although I didn't add a link, I followed your lead ....with a bit of a twist. ;)

Keep us posted on your pineapple growing! :)

Kim
 

Hi Snowwark! :wave2: I'm glad you like it! :D
I have a few pictures to add, but I'm waiting on approval. (Thank you Dis Team for all you do! I know I've switched pictures far too many times.)
As for the perserverance, well that is in part because I found a website that recommended pineapple propogation as a good project for grades K-8. K-8?!! If they can do it, then surely there must be hope for me.
I potted them up for the last time, today. Either they will grow, or they will be doomed to an eternity in my other dreadful project- the compost bin.

I hope my link brings some more Dis gardners over here that didn't know about this wonderful forum. :)
 
Very cool! It was really neat seeing the pineapple fields in Hawaii last year. I never really thought about growing them at home though. I don't think I could grow them here, too cold. Thanks for all the info dandave!
 












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