I love credit cards so much! v6.0 - 2023 (see first page for add'l details)

It's $10 for the exact plan you have at home. And it's capped at 10 days I believe. It is worth it to me.

The charges are capped, not the usage. If you use it more than 10 days in a billing cycle they don't charge more than $100. I think this is what will get me too, but I need to see what are next couple of billing dates are and of there's a way to change it.
 
The charges are capped, not the usage. If you use it more than 10 days in a billing cycle they don't charge more than $100. I think this is what will get me too, but I need to see what are next couple of billing dates are and of there's a way to change it.
Right. Exactly. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear.
 
All the talk about international plans and just using wi fI, how do you navigate? I’m used to using my phone as my gps device. I could go back to using paper maps but I’m traveling solo so much easier to use the phone. This is for road trips. I was just going to do the Verizon plan that is 10/ day but if there is a better way, send your advice.
You can download offline maps before you leave and use them to navigate without data or wifi. (not available everywhere but we used it in the UK for driving.

https://support.google.com/maps/answer/6291838?hl=en&co=GENIE.Platform=Android (or you can toggle to iPhone on the same site)

After you download an area, use the Google Maps app just like you normally would. If your internet connection is slow or absent, your offline maps will guide you to your destination as long as the entire route is within the offline map.

Transit, bicycling, or walking directions are unavailable offline. In your offline driving directions, you can’t get traffic info, alternate routes, or lane guidance.
 


We actually used the Wifi calling on the Japanese data only eSIM network too. We would call each other when we were separated at the parks just like normal. It felt very seamless.

But I just asked DH if we'll be able to do the same in Europe now that we're with T-Mobile instead of Xfinity. Apparently there's a lot of nuance that I don't totally understand. 😅
Yeah we have Tmobile. I don’t know if it makes a difference. I just know, DH said we could only use Wi-Fi calling when we were actually connected to public Wi-Fi or the wifi networks in the hotels/trains, etc. Otherwise, we had to use WhatsApp when we were on our data plan (included international data from tmobile). I will admit I don’t completely understand it either… I just do what I’m told when it comes to technology 😂
 
Looking for advice. I just got CSP and currently am 2/24 (I will drop back down to 2/24 April of next year). I have 2 cash back cards with another bank, neither with an AF (not 2 of the most popular cards but they have good bonus rates). Spouse is 2/24 only as AU.

I'm thinking to have spouse get CSP later this year, then downgrade one of us next year to CFU or CFF. I also want one of us to get CSR later in the year or next, then the other spouse, and downgrade again to CFU or CFF. All of this will be spaced out to get the bonus spend at sign up on each and referral credit for the other spouse.

Is there any downside to not signing up for CFU and CFF and getting the sign up bonus boost instead of downgrading one spouse? Also, what would be recommended for each of us to do next for new card sign ups? The only current card we have of the popular ones on this forum is the recent CSP sign up.
 
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Looking for advice. I just got CSP and currently am 3/24 (I will drop back down to 2/24 April of next year). I have 2 cash back cards with another bank, neither with an AF (not 2 of the most popular cards but they have good bonus rates). Spouse is 0/24.

I'm thinking to have spouse get CSP later this year, then downgrade one of us next year to CFU or CFF. I also want one of us to get CSR later in the year or next, then the other spouse, and downgrade again to CFU or CFF. All of this will be spaced out to get the bonus spend at sign up on each and referral credit for the other spouse.

Is there any downside to not signing up for CFU and CFF and getting the sign up bonus boost instead of downgrading one spouse? Also, what would be recommended for each of us to do next for new card sign ups? The only current card we have of the popular ones on this forum is the recent CSP sign up.
Sounds like a reasonable plan. No downside to forgoing bonuses on the CFU/CFF. There are much better bonuses to be had. As far as what cards to apply for next, that’s highly individual dependent on your goals. If you’re wanting more Chase URs then you can’t go wrong with the Chase business cards. The Ink Cash or Ink Unlimited have great bonuses and no AF.
 
Looking for advice. I just got CSP and currently am 3/24 (I will drop back down to 2/24 April of next year). I have 2 cash back cards with another bank, neither with an AF (not 2 of the most popular cards but they have good bonus rates). Spouse is 0/24.

I'm thinking to have spouse get CSP later this year, then downgrade one of us next year to CFU or CFF. I also want one of us to get CSR later in the year or next, then the other spouse, and downgrade again to CFU or CFF. All of this will be spaced out to get the bonus spend at sign up on each and referral credit for the other spouse.

Is there any downside to not signing up for CFU and CFF and getting the sign up bonus boost instead of downgrading one spouse? Also, what would be recommended for each of us to do next for new card sign ups? The only current card we have of the popular ones on this forum is the recent CSP sign up.

Unless I'm mistaken, I think you have a timing issue with your plan. You can't get CSP's this year and CSR's next year as there is a 48 month restriction on Sapphire bonuses.

So in your case, once you receive the bonus on the CSP, you have to wait 4 years before being eligible for the CSR bonus.

Perhaps one of the Chase Ink cards as an alternative, if you are open to business cards?
 
Unless I'm mistaken, I think you have a timing issue with your plan. You can't get CSP's this year and CSR's next year as there is a 48 month restriction on Sapphire bonuses.

So in your case, once you receive the bonus on the CSP, you have to wait 4 years before being eligible for the CSR bonus.

Perhaps one of the Chase Ink cards as an alternative, if you are open to business cards?
Ah..yes, thanks for the reminder of the 4yr Sapphire rule. I forget about it because I did a MDD.
 
Unless I'm mistaken, I think you have a timing issue with your plan. You can't get CSP's this year and CSR's next year as there is a 48 month restriction on Sapphire bonuses.

So in your case, once you receive the bonus on the CSP, you have to wait 4 years before being eligible for the CSR bonus.

Perhaps one of the Chase Ink cards as an alternative, if you are open to business cards?
Thank you, exactly why I sought advice here from knowledgeable people such as yourself! I was not aware of the rule, and have now done some additional research to educate myself and I see what you're describing to be true. I will mark my calendar for 48 months once the CFP welcome bonus is earned.

Another question, can my spouse apply for their own CFP if also an AU on my account or do they need to not be an AU?
 
I did in Tahiti. I kept my phone in airplane mode & turned off cellular and roaming for good measure. I used wifi and imessaging worked fine with no charge.

I was glad I turned on the international daypass ability before I left the US because I did have an emergency where I wanted cellphone use and all I had to do was turn off airplane mode and turn on cellular, they charged $10(per line I think? It was just me traveling) and like tax. I made sure it was turned off within 24 hours.

10/10 would use it again!
Thank you. I think this is what I plan to do.
It's $10 for the exact plan you have at home. And it's capped at 10 days I believe. It is worth it to me.

The charges are capped, not the usage. If you use it more than 10 days in a billing cycle they don't charge more than $100. I think this is what will get me too, but I need to see what are next couple of billing dates are and of there's a way to change it.
This is what confused me when chatting with ATT online. She said something like it is capped at 10 days per billing cycle and then the rest will be charged next billing cycle. I tried to clarify with her. I will be in Europe for 15 days - all in the same billing cycle - so for one phone, I asked her if the most I will be charged is $100, assuming I use the phone 10+ days. She said in that billing cylce I will only be charged $100 and the rest (if I used the phone more than 10 days) would be charged in the next billing cycle.

Either way, I think this is what I will do. It will be $15/day if both DH and I use our phones the same day. We can have roaming off most of the time and rely on imessages.
 
We prefer a RT cruise mostly because flight to/from Anchorage seem much more expensive than Seattle or Vancouver. I’m still in the investigation stages so I’m keeping them in mind.

I originally booked a float plane to glacier (thru Chase portal) but chickened out when two float planes crashed into each other the week before our cruise. I just couldn’t do it. Non refundable so I lost points but not cash. Ended up on one of the Disney excursions last minute which was good but $$$.
Have you looked at multi-city pricing for the open jaw cruise? I found multi-city to be considered RT, or close to it, pricing wise. Just did a quicky sanity check on AA with PHL>YVR,ANC>PHL, random 7days in Aug and the lowest cash price was within $10 of either city's RT price.

When we did ours in 2019 we ended up doing SW pts to Seattle and train to Vancouver. Then used AA points for the return from Alaska, just because I didn't want to pay cash and didn't have enough airline points to do RT with any one carrier that flew from Alaska. But I've also found that multi-city ticketing can reduce the points cost sometimes as well. When I was searching for our upcoming open jaw Iceland cruise, not all RT/MC options equaled 2 one ways. So I always try it both ways to see if there's an advantage.

I have nothing to compare it to since we only did the one cruise, but Glacier Bay was the highlight of the cruise. Since we did one way we also cruised another glacier before arriving ANC and it was beautiful but not the same. We did NCL and it was ok. When in GB the Park Ranger had a talk, and was making announcements. But I don't recall any other programming. I really do want to do a Princess one since they are pretty well known for their Alaska programming. But there wasn't anything unusually bad with NCL. For our Panama Canal cruise NCL did have a guest lecture for us so maybe they just didn't have one lined up for our Alaska sailing? Or they only do it for certain routes?
Does anyone know if SW rapid rewards are assigned cash value? I'm assuming not...

I'll have $400 support and then a SW support bonus that I had assumed wouldn't kick me over into a 1099.
Chase values all points at 1 cpp for 1099 purposes. So SW, United, Marriott, IHG ( :crazy2: bleck), etc all same valuation, even though you definitely don't always get that value on a redemption. If you were tax savvy and had an actual redemption value for that year that you could claim the actual fair market value realized, but Chase will still have reported based on their value. Not tax advice, just putting out some food for thought.
Thinking of doing a direct DVC add-on and wondering should I use my Disney Visa Premier, or open a new card that would be more advantageous? Hear a lot of people talking about the CSR.

Only 1 new card in past 2 years (Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless) BUT average age of all accounts is just over 2 years and the oldest account is from 4 years ago when we moved to the US. That said, my credit score should be enough to get approved.

I pay off my cards in full every month (under $2K unless we have a major expense) so this will be my first time carrying a balance and hoping to spread out payments interest free as long as I can (Chase My Payment plan?) Spend is typical groceries, gas and whatever bills let us pay by credit card. Rarely travel by plane, hotels are pretty much covered between Hilton, Marriott and DVC.

Hope that's enough to weigh in!
If you're not going to pay it off, I wouldn't recommend any top tier card for the sign up bonus. The interest rates are also top tier :scared1: so you don't want to accidentally leave a balance subject to interest on them. The Chase payment plan doesn't charge interest but price out the fees vs a lower interest card. Sometimes the fixed fees are higher than the interest rates. I haven't looked too hard into it so I can't speak specifically for how Chase structures their fees currently. I also don't think you can know in advance what plan terms they'll offer you, so you may not get the length of time you'd want. Then if you couldn't pay it completely you'd be at the mercy of the normal interest rate.

Since you're considering your Disney Visa which only has a 6 month 0% (maybe? Quicky look on a new application doesn't mention the DVC purchase as a Vacation financing benefit like it used to. But maybe I missed it.) I'd assume you have a plan for short term payment. Using the Disney card would only net you 2% back whereas a new card with a sign up bonus and 0% purchase interest intro period should get you a higher return. If it were me, I research 0% purchase cards that have a sign up bonus. (And make sure I could pay it off within the intro term) There's definitely options for 12 months on some business cards but if you're not comfortable with having a business or "business", then there may be some personal cards that fit the bill. If biz is ok consider the Chase CIU but depending on the purchase price the credit limits might not work out. (Some get the minimum CL of 3k, so some research is in order)
 
Thank you, exactly why I sought advice here from knowledgeable people such as yourself! I was not aware of the rule, and have now done some additional research to educate myself and I see what you're describing to be true. I will mark my calendar for 48 months once the CFP welcome bonus is earned.

Another question, can my spouse apply for their own CFP if also an AU on my account or do they need to not be an AU?
As a general PSA, everyone should be reading the details of the offer you're signing up for - not just the advertising on the application. Find the link for the fine print, for Chase it's "Offer Details", and read that thoroughly before applying. That link has all the details about bonus eligibility which will clue you into potential future eligibility problems. Specifically the Sapphire details spell out the 48 month rule in bold as the first, super long, sentence -
"The product is not available to either (i) current cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card, or (ii) previous cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card who received a new cardmember bonus within the last 48 months. If you are an existing Sapphire customer and would like this product, please call the number on the back of your card to see if you are eligible for a product change. You will not receive the new cardmember bonus if you change products."

Key words are the product itself is not available for application if you already have any of the Sapphire cards, in other words, you'll be flat out denied if you apply for a new card while holding one. It does say you can change your product so nothing precluding you from holding more than one, but you can't get the bonus for another one for 48 months once you earn this bonus. (Not without some MDD trickery, but the trickery only works at the time of the first application. But I digress.) These are key details that help plan out a roadmap for card applications.

As I'm thinking about cards I always open up the application and find the current fine print to use as a guide for future eligibility. Things can change between now and then, but I don't want to do something now that will for sure derail the path.

Also good to always look at the fine print that you're agreeing to before hitting submit. Things change. That blog post we just read might be outdated, the terms can change since your last application, the website could have old info that contradicts the terms. In the points game it's all about the details. It's what allows us to take full advantage of the cards we're getting. It's also the unglamorous side of travel hacking :laughing:

So again, just a general reminder for everyone to check out all the details first, to try to avoid disappointment later.

Glad that you found us now, @OlliePop27, so you'll be prepared for P2's applications! Welcome to the addiction... ah, I mean, game!
 
Thank you. I think this is what I plan to do.



This is what confused me when chatting with ATT online. She said something like it is capped at 10 days per billing cycle and then the rest will be charged next billing cycle. I tried to clarify with her. I will be in Europe for 15 days - all in the same billing cycle - so for one phone, I asked her if the most I will be charged is $100, assuming I use the phone 10+ days. She said in that billing cylce I will only be charged $100 and the rest (if I used the phone more than 10 days) would be charged in the next billing cycle.

Either way, I think this is what I will do. It will be $15/day if both DH and I use our phones the same day. We can have roaming off most of the time and rely on imessages.
Alrighty, found the actual fine print! God I hate dealing with the phone company.
“Charge cap: You’ll be charged a maximum of 10 daily fees per line, per monthly bill cycle. After 10 daily fees on a line, that line may continue to use IDP through the end of the bill cycle at no additional charge” Link
$100 it is.
 
As a general PSA, everyone should be reading the details of the offer you're signing up for - not just the advertising on the application. Find the link for the fine print, for Chase it's "Offer Details", and read that thoroughly before applying. That link has all the details about bonus eligibility which will clue you into potential future eligibility problems. Specifically the Sapphire details spell out the 48 month rule in bold as the first, super long, sentence -
"The product is not available to either (i) current cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card, or (ii) previous cardmembers of any Sapphire credit card who received a new cardmember bonus within the last 48 months. If you are an existing Sapphire customer and would like this product, please call the number on the back of your card to see if you are eligible for a product change. You will not receive the new cardmember bonus if you change products."

Key words are the product itself is not available for application if you already have any of the Sapphire cards, in other words, you'll be flat out denied if you apply for a new card while holding one. It does say you can change your product so nothing precluding you from holding more than one, but you can't get the bonus for another one for 48 months once you earn this bonus. (Not without some MDD trickery, but the trickery only works at the time of the first application. But I digress.) These are key details that help plan out a roadmap for card applications.

As I'm thinking about cards I always open up the application and find the current fine print to use as a guide for future eligibility. Things can change between now and then, but I don't want to do something now that will for sure derail the path.

Also good to always look at the fine print that you're agreeing to before hitting submit. Things change. That blog post we just read might be outdated, the terms can change since your last application, the website could have old info that contradicts the terms. In the points game it's all about the details. It's what allows us to take full advantage of the cards we're getting. It's also the unglamorous side of travel hacking :laughing:

So again, just a general reminder for everyone to check out all the details first, to try to avoid disappointment later.

Glad that you found us now, @OlliePop27, so you'll be prepared for P2's applications! Welcome to the addiction... ah, I mean, game!
Before someone became enlightened, if said person had added P2 as an authorized user to CSP, could P2 still apply for CSP themselves (and receive SUB) if removed as AU from P1's card?

Understood about AU counting against X/24 for P2.
 
Alrighty, found the actual fine print! God I hate dealing with the phone company.
“Charge cap: You’ll be charged a maximum of 10 daily fees per line, per monthly bill cycle. After 10 daily fees on a line, that line may continue to use IDP through the end of the bill cycle at no additional charge” Link
$100 it is.
Thank you! I didn't think the chat rep got it right, but didn't see the fine print. Much appreciated. So for two phones max will be $150 - if we both use our phones all 15 days.
 
Yes P2 can apply for their own CSP or CSR and receive the SUB
Thank you! Everyone here is so friendly and knowledgeable.

I know it's subjective, and everyone will have differing advice, but I'm seeking opinions about what to do next. The goal is to accrue travel rewards mostly for LONG TERM use (i.e. not anything sooner than 9 months from now). No specific destinations in mind as we travel all over. Travelling party will be two adults and two young children. Preferred airline is American (lots of accrued miles, elite status, and AA has hub in local market) and we also have access to Southwest flights. No hotel preference (rewards members of Hyatt, Bonvoy, Hilton). Monthly spend around $5k and no balances. Main spending is on groceries, online shopping, to-go dining, and gas. Main stores we frequent are Walmart and grocery store chains. We both have Pre-Check, but not Clear. We do occasionally go to pharmacies and could get GC's, but we don't use pharmacies much currently. CS's are well north of 800 for P1 and P2.

P1:
11/22 - BOFA Unlimited Cash Rewards
06/23 - CSP

P2: AU on both of P1's accounts.

Edited to Add - We have several other store branded cards, one AA credit card, and a DV, but all these accounts are much older and way beyond 24 months ago since opening. The current thinking is to have P2 get CSP later this year and then downgrade one of us next year before the AF to CFU or CFF. I also want one of us to have the CFF or CFU, whichever one we don't get/have from the downgrade. What to do otherwise is the main advice being sought. We are interested potentially in Amex Platinum (we would be heavy W+ users and Exxon gas discount), and I know there are obviously many other great cards out there.
 
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