Is this a good deal for BWV?

robinbutterfly

DIS Veteran
Joined
Jun 27, 2008
65 dollars a point for 175 points a year.
No banked points.

OR


BWV
65 dollars a point
150 points per year.
140 points banked!

I pay Closing costs and dues for 2012.
 


OK what about this
BWV
65 dollars a point
150 points per year.
140 points banked!

I pay Closing costs and dues for 2012.

Please let me know!
I don't know if I am being smart about this or not.
 
If you are paying closing costs and 2012 dues, you end up paying over $70 a point.
 


I could be wrong but I think most pay dues on the current years points that are included.
 
I could be wrong but I think most pay dues on the current years points that are included.

Really? Can someone let me know this?? The resale lady made it sound like I got a great deal and I should pay for 2012 dues with those banked points.
 
Just to give you an idea of other BWV deals, here's the contract I just closed on:

150 BWV Sept. UY, $50 per point
144 '11, 150 '12, 150 '13 (the 2011 points I just banked)
I paid MFs, and split closing with the sellers

Bottom line, I think you need to spend some time on the ROFR thread to get an idea of what people have been paying at BWV. If you have no pressing need for the points RIGHT NOW, you'll have the luxury to wait for a seller who is willing to negotiate lower than the contracts you're currently looking at. But as PP said, if the contract is perfect in every way and you're comfortable paying $65 per point, then so be it.
 
Just to give you an idea of other BWV deals, here's the contract I just closed on:

150 BWV Sept. UY, $50 per point
144 '11, 150 '12, 150 '13 (the 2011 points I just banked)
I paid MFs, and split closing with the sellers

Bottom line, I think you need to spend some time on the ROFR thread to get an idea of what people have been paying at BWV. If you have no pressing need for the points RIGHT NOW, you'll have the luxury to wait for a seller who is willing to negotiate lower than the contracts you're currently looking at. But as PP said, if the contract is perfect in every way and you're comfortable paying $65 per point, then so be it.

I made several offers in the 50 dollar per point range and all of them were declined!!!
 
I could be wrong but I think most pay dues on the current years points that are included.
I think technically you're correct, more specifically I think most OVERPAY dues on resales because dues are paid on a calendar year basis. That means the dues paid this past Jan on an August resale were for 7 months of the 2011 UY and 5 months of the 2012 UY then next Jan you'd pay the other 7 months. Thus if you bought a contract with all points coming in August 2012 but no others and you reimbursed all of the dues, you just overpaid by 7/12 of the maint fee amount. One needs to look at the big picture and there are MANY variables but should take this frequent anomaly into account.

As for backing out it depends. Assuming you're within 10 days as it seems you are and have a valid contract (offer signed by both and money paid) you could legally but probably not ethically. If you don't have a valid contract, there's no actual deal.
 
I don't know whether you already made a decision, but I just agreed on $67 per point for a 100 point contract at the Boardwalk, no '11 and all '12 points. I am also paying closing costs and mf. It kind of made me sick to pay that much when so many go for WAY less, but I've recently made 3 similar offers and they were all declined. It seems as though lately the BWV owners have been holding out for more money. I'm still upset about getting such a bad deal, but to me it was worth it to not have to keep waiting and getting declined
 
I made several offers in the 50 dollar per point range and all of them were declined!!!


I've made 17 offers in the last 3 weeks and have got 15 rejections, but on 2 I have accepted offers.

If you're trying to get a really low price, then be prepare to get a LOT of rejections.
 
I can tell you we just passed rofr on tuesday for 210 bwv at @$50 pp with 133 2011 and 210 2012. We prorated mf for 2011 based on the number of points they used and i was buying- i thought this was fair. Also we are splitting closing.

We were patient. I think if u stick to a reasonable top line you should be able to find something close to what u want in due time (UY and banked pts). However, if u dont want to wait for that motivated seller and are set on UY and banked points, its going to be harder. Just like buying any other real estate- you have to be pretty patient and lucky if u wanna find that perfect house at the perfect location with a seller wiling to unload in the bottom 20% of comarables
 
65 dollars a point for 175 points a year.
No banked points.

OR


BWV
65 dollars a point
150 points per year.
140 points banked!

I pay Closing costs and dues for 2012.

just an FYI.....i am currently in rofr $50pp feb uy, all 2012, all 2013, i pay closing, prorated mf's
 
The resale lady made it sound like I got a great deal and I should pay for 2012 dues with those banked points.

Do not limit yourself to just one resale agent. There are three or four decent agents out there. Some are not as interested in getting you a good deal, as they are representing the buyer. I know one company that has told me I would never get a contract on a property in the price I was offering. They also thought it was unreasonable to not pay the MF for the current year. And again, I did eventually get the price I wanted and did not pay the MF for the current year.

That said, If you are looking for the perfect contract (Prices, location, loaded points and UY) it may take a lot of offers. You may also want to let all the agents know exactly what you are looking for. Some may contact you before the even send out their "newly listed" emails.
 
Really? Can someone let me know this?? The resale lady made it sound like I got a great deal and I should pay for 2012 dues with those banked points.

Two quick pieces of advice...

One, check out the ROFR thread on these boards and compare your offer to the offers that have recently sold and cleared ROFR. If they are similar, you got a good deal. If they're not, you didn't.

Second, and I mean this with all kindness and sincerity, please take a step back and relax. After reading your three different threads about this purchase and how "nervous" you are getting, I think it might be in your best interests to do some research and then start over again.

Good luck!
 
Second, and I mean this with all kindness and sincerity, please take a step back and relax. After reading your three different threads about this purchase and how "nervous" you are getting, I think it might be in your best interests to do some research and then start over again.

Good luck!
THIS. DVC or any timeshare for that matter is not something you want to enter into blindly. PP is right to suggest that you should pull out of your current deal (because clearly you're not comfortable with it.) Then take step back and spend the next few weeks /months reading and researching. Start with the different brokers and how they work. Some are more open to lowball offers than others.

Then spend a good bit of time on the ROFR thread, seeing how other people have structured their deals. So when you feel ready to make another offer, you'll know exactly what you are doing.

Good luck and feel free to ask a lot of questions, people on this board know what they're talking about.
 

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