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Old 10-28-2012, 08:38 AM   #136
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The blur looks an awful lot like motion blur which is from a too slow shutter speed. Remember the 1/focal length rule as your starting point. You want to use your focal length then add a stop or two to stop the movement of the band members. Some people who are particularly unstable with a lens will have to add another stop or two. Make sure you're adding whole stops, not halves or thirds.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #137
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Could be those moving focal points too. Try setting your focal point to the center one and focus on shooting some non-moving objects and see what that gets you. Those variable focal points drove me crazy until I finally understood them.

Do you have software that tells you what the focus point was? If not, you can put them back on a card and back in the camera and it will tell you.

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Old 10-28-2012, 01:21 PM   #138
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I went back and looked at the EXIF data now that I had time. IMG 0037 has a focal length of 163mm with a shutter speed of 1/60. THat shutter speed needs to be a lot faster than that. At that focal length shooting band I'd probably be using at least 1/250 just to be sure I'm going to freeze the action and to counter me moving as I shoot. THe aperture was wide open so there's no room to go there, but the ISO was only set at 400 so there was plenty of room to bump that up and get a faster shutter speed. The IS on your lens helps some here. If you look at the last one you posted, the shutter speed and focal length are the same as 0037. But it looks like the subjects were still and you must have held really steady when shooting it.

Also, kill the flash when shooting like this. It's not doing you any good and just draining your battery more.

As far as the focus point, on 0037 it looks like it's on the girl on the left.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:39 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by photo_chick View Post
I went back and looked at the EXIF data now that I had time. IMG 0037 has a focal length of 163mm with a shutter speed of 1/60. THat shutter speed needs to be a lot faster than that. At that focal length shooting band I'd probably be using at least 1/250 just to be sure I'm going to freeze the action and to counter me moving as I shoot. THe aperture was wide open so there's no room to go there, but the ISO was only set at 400 so there was plenty of room to bump that up and get a faster shutter speed. The IS on your lens helps some here. If you look at the last one you posted, the shutter speed and focal length are the same as 0037. But it looks like the subjects were still and you must have held really steady when shooting it.

Also, kill the flash when shooting like this. It's not doing you any good and just draining your battery more.

As far as the focus point, on 0037 it looks like it's on the girl on the left.
yep, that's what happens when you use full auto mode...lol. i didn't get my memory cards until late friday morning, so there was no time to really practice with the camera. in the shot of the two boys playing trumpet, they were still, and i was holding very still as well. unfortunately, in the case of DD15, she's NEVER still, so it's almost impossible to catch her. every time i thought i could get her, she took a step to the left or right, lol. i was also using the zoom lens when i took the pics of the boys; i was using the kit lens to start with, in the pics of DD15.
i've been reading "understanding exposure", but i'm probably going to need a class too. my plan is to call the local community college tomorrow morning, and find out if their winter CE classes include photography.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:31 PM   #140
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okay, guys, i have a question.

DD15 wants to go to disney on ice this weekend, and DH agreed. so, what is the best way for me to capture this?

it will be indoors, at a civic center, and i've found, so far, that the best way to get shots indoors is on full auto (when i try to do it manually by setting the ISO, aperture and shutter speed, the shutter always stays open too long, even when the camera says i have it set correctly, and the photo is blurry and overexposed).

is there a better way? should i just use my zoom lens on full auto?
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:47 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by momof1princess View Post
okay, guys, i have a question.

DD15 wants to go to disney on ice this weekend, and DH agreed. so, what is the best way for me to capture this?

it will be indoors, at a civic center, and i've found, so far, that the best way to get shots indoors is on full auto (when i try to do it manually by setting the ISO, aperture and shutter speed, the shutter always stays open too long, even when the camera says i have it set correctly, and the photo is blurry and overexposed).

is there a better way? should i just use my zoom lens on full auto?
First off, check your local arena's camera policy. It varies here depending on which arena it's at. The one it has been at the last couple of years here in our town has metal detectors, so no sneaking anything in. They allow only lenses up to a certain length here. Yours will probably work, but you will want to be sure so you don't have to take your camera back to your car.

I have had good luck using my 50mm f/1.8 lens. It's not long enough, but I'd rather have a fast lens than a longer lens.

I'm thinking you have the kit lens and zoom. Neither of these is fast. So you're going to have to run out and buy one or make the most of what you have.

Shoot wider so you can get a wider aperture. The more you zoom in the smaller your maximum aperture is going to be. You can do one of 2 things:

1) pick a shutter speed that will stop the action. Put the camera in shutter priority and adjust aperture and ISO until the exposure is balanced or

2) put it in aperture priority and set it to the largest available aperture.

Don't be afraid to bump it up to 3200 ISO. I probably wouldn't go much higher though. I haven't been very happy with my 6400 shots.

Remember if you can get sharp shot, you can always crop it down later.

Good luck!
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:44 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by momof1princess View Post
okay, guys, i have a question.

DD15 wants to go to disney on ice this weekend, and DH agreed. so, what is the best way for me to capture this?

it will be indoors, at a civic center, and i've found, so far, that the best way to get shots indoors is on full auto (when i try to do it manually by setting the ISO, aperture and shutter speed, the shutter always stays open too long, even when the camera says i have it set correctly, and the photo is blurry and overexposed).

is there a better way? should i just use my zoom lens on full auto?
If you shoot in full auto, be sure to turn OFF the flash. The flash won't provide any help. And it can actually do harm, if it fools the computer into using a lower ISO.

At the very least, I'd set the ISO manually -- You can try a couple different settings, but probably a minimum of 1600. (3200 or 6400 would work better but would introduce more noise).

You probably need to be in P mode to manually set the ISO.

I'd go 1 step further, and switch to A-mode. Aperture priority.
And then I'd set the aperture as large as possible -- 4.5, 5.6.. whatever your lens will allow. (smallest possible number is the largest aperture).

You can start with the zoom lens. Remember, if you "zoom" in to 200mm, you will really need a shutter speed of 150-250 to get sharp images. With the action on the ice, maybe even more like 200-400.

So if the settings recommended are making the shutter speed still go too slow or the images are too dark, then you may have to:
1 -- Increase the ISO. That will let you get more light, at faster shutter speeds.
2 -- Zoom out. With your zoom lens zoomed out, you can get by with a slower shutter speed.
3 -- Switch to your kit lens. Which probably has a slightly wider aperture, and less focal length. So you can shoot at an even slower shutter speed, and keep brightness and sharpness.

Alternatively, instead of shooting in A mode -- You can try keeping ISO on auto. Turn off the flash. And switch to Shutter priority mode. if planning on zooming in, then set the shutter speed to 1/200. Try taking a few pictures. If they are too blurry, you will need to increase the speed even more -- Try 1/400. If the pictures are too dark, then you will need to increase the ISO, zoom out, switch lenses (as above).
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:49 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by mom2rtk View Post
I have had good luck using my 50mm f/1.8 lens. It's not long enough, but I'd rather have a fast lens than a longer lens.
Everyone should own a "nifty fifty." More valuable than any typical kit lens or cheap zoom lens.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:11 PM   #144
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For learning sake, I would take a few pictures in sports mode. Then see what settings the camera used... Then try to optimize the results. The biggest disadvantage of a sports mode is a higher ISO / shutter than you really need (and higher ISO is noisier) so if the camera is choosing ISO 3200 and a 1/500 shutter, you might be OK trying ISO 1600 1/250 shutter.

I think events like that often use spotlights so make sure your metering the center (skater) rather than the arena's dark ice.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:51 PM   #145
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I think events like that often use spotlights so make sure your metering the center (skater) rather than the arena's dark ice.
I completely forgot that point. The pics I used to take on auto always washed out the skaters' faces. For this very reason. All the black background fooled the camera into overexposing the photo. OP, you'll want to use spot or center weighted metering. It will have a big impact.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:51 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by havoc315 View Post
Everyone should own a "nifty fifty." More valuable than any typical kit lens or cheap zoom lens.
Amen. By far and away, simply the greatest VALUE in Canon's entire and vast lens lineup.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:51 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mom2rtk View Post
First off, check your local arena's camera policy. It varies here depending on which arena it's at. The one it has been at the last couple of years here in our town has metal detectors, so no sneaking anything in. They allow only lenses up to a certain length here. Yours will probably work, but you will want to be sure so you don't have to take your camera back to your car.

I have had good luck using my 50mm f/1.8 lens. It's not long enough, but I'd rather have a fast lens than a longer lens.

I'm thinking you have the kit lens and zoom. Neither of these is fast. So you're going to have to run out and buy one or make the most of what you have.

Shoot wider so you can get a wider aperture. The more you zoom in the smaller your maximum aperture is going to be. You can do one of 2 things:

1) pick a shutter speed that will stop the action. Put the camera in shutter priority and adjust aperture and ISO until the exposure is balanced or

2) put it in aperture priority and set it to the largest available aperture.

Don't be afraid to bump it up to 3200 ISO. I probably wouldn't go much higher though. I haven't been very happy with my 6400 shots.

Remember if you can get sharp shot, you can always crop it down later.

Good luck!
thank you! it does say "no professional cameras", so i might not be able to take it in, i don't know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by havoc315 View Post
If you shoot in full auto, be sure to turn OFF the flash. The flash won't provide any help. And it can actually do harm, if it fools the computer into using a lower ISO.

At the very least, I'd set the ISO manually -- You can try a couple different settings, but probably a minimum of 1600. (3200 or 6400 would work better but would introduce more noise).

You probably need to be in P mode to manually set the ISO.

I'd go 1 step further, and switch to A-mode. Aperture priority.
And then I'd set the aperture as large as possible -- 4.5, 5.6.. whatever your lens will allow. (smallest possible number is the largest aperture).

You can start with the zoom lens. Remember, if you "zoom" in to 200mm, you will really need a shutter speed of 150-250 to get sharp images. With the action on the ice, maybe even more like 200-400.

So if the settings recommended are making the shutter speed still go too slow or the images are too dark, then you may have to:
1 -- Increase the ISO. That will let you get more light, at faster shutter speeds.
2 -- Zoom out. With your zoom lens zoomed out, you can get by with a slower shutter speed.
3 -- Switch to your kit lens. Which probably has a slightly wider aperture, and less focal length. So you can shoot at an even slower shutter speed, and keep brightness and sharpness.

Alternatively, instead of shooting in A mode -- You can try keeping ISO on auto. Turn off the flash. And switch to Shutter priority mode. if planning on zooming in, then set the shutter speed to 1/200. Try taking a few pictures. If they are too blurry, you will need to increase the speed even more -- Try 1/400. If the pictures are too dark, then you will need to increase the ISO, zoom out, switch lenses (as above).
i'm going to have to print all of this, so i don't forget it! thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hakepb View Post
For learning sake, I would take a few pictures in sports mode. Then see what settings the camera used... Then try to optimize the results. The biggest disadvantage of a sports mode is a higher ISO / shutter than you really need (and higher ISO is noisier) so if the camera is choosing ISO 3200 and a 1/500 shutter, you might be OK trying ISO 1600 1/250 shutter.

I think events like that often use spotlights so make sure your metering the center (skater) rather than the arena's dark ice.
thank you!
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:53 PM   #148
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I completely forgot that point. The pics I used to take on auto always washed out the skaters' faces. For this very reason. All the black background fooled the camera into overexposing the photo. OP, you'll want to use spot or center weighted metering. It will have a big impact.
Big issue on auto. But as you shoot under more of a manual control, you can adjust the exposure yourself. If it looks too bright on the LCD screen, re-adjust accordingly. For challenging exposure, I prefer to simply control it myself, instead of finding just the right spot to set the spot meter.

Also, if you shoot in RAW and use Lightroom, you get a lot of room to correct exposure issues. (within reason of course).

To OP -- this talk about spot metering. If you focus the camera on a very bright spot, it could make the camera compensate and make the picture too dark. If you focus on a dark spot, it could make the camera over-compensate, and make the picture too bright. So you want to point the camera at a spot with just the right lighting, and lock in your spot meter at that point. It will then use that as the reference point for setting the auto exposure.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:56 PM   #149
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thank you! it does say "no professional cameras", so i might not be able to take it in, i don't know.
If that's what the literature says, then no problem. They wouldn't consider the T2i to be a "professional" camera.

The T2i with a basic kit lens, is very much an amateur consumer product.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:20 PM   #150
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If that's what the literature says, then no problem. They wouldn't consider the T2i to be a "professional" camera.

The T2i with a basic kit lens, is very much an amateur consumer product.
Although we know the T2i is a consumer grade camera, and even though Canon lists it as such, the droids that make these rules and implement them generally consider anything with interchangeable lenses to be "professional". Chances are the T2i will not be allowed in.

If it does not look like a dSLR (such as a small mirrorless) the chances of it getting in are much better.
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