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Old 10-27-2012, 07:02 PM   #4186
mom2rtk
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Originally Posted by momof1princess View Post
i wish i could make sense of all that, lol. i really think i'm going to need to take a photography class. i've been reading "understanding exposure", but i'm pretty sure there are some steps left out. it said to change the aperture to 5.6, then use the dial to change the shutter speed until the viewfinder told me it was correct...it didn't do that. i stopped when the arrow got mid-range, which resulted in a pretty good photo, so i guess that's what it meant.
i'm thinking "photography for dummies" might be more my speed...lol.
Your zoom has a variable aperture. The aperture is the part that opens and closes inside the lens to let in more or less light. More expensive lenses have a bigger apertures, making them better in low light.

In a variable aperture lens, the largest available aperture is smaller and smaller the more you zoom in. So at a wider length (less zoomed in) you get a larger aperture letting in more light. So in these situations, it is better to not zoom in as much, but shoot on the highest quality setting, then just crop down as needed.

The ISO is the light sensitivity setting on your camera. The higher the ISO, the more light sensitive it is, but the more noise (grainy quality) your photos will have.

Your goal here is to get your shutter speed up. Your camera tried to compensate for the low light by leaving the shutter open longer. That is how you got a blurry photo. With a higher ISO and a larger aperture, your camera will have better light available, so can have a faster shutter speed.

Keep reading "Understanding Exposure". It should pull it all together for you.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:27 PM   #4187
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Originally Posted by mom2rtk View Post
Your zoom has a variable aperture. The aperture is the part that opens and closes inside the lens to let in more or less light. More expensive lenses have a bigger apertures, making them better in low light.

In a variable aperture lens, the largest available aperture is smaller and smaller the more you zoom in. So at a wider length (less zoomed in) you get a larger aperture letting in more light. So in these situations, it is better to not zoom in as much, but shoot on the highest quality setting, then just crop down as needed.

The ISO is the light sensitivity setting on your camera. The higher the ISO, the more light sensitive it is, but the more noise (grainy quality) your photos will have.

Your goal here is to get your shutter speed up. Your camera tried to compensate for the low light by leaving the shutter open longer. That is how you got a blurry photo. With a higher ISO and a larger aperture, your camera will have better light available, so can have a faster shutter speed.

Keep reading "Understanding Exposure". It should pull it all together for you.

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Old 10-27-2012, 08:05 PM   #4188
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Originally Posted by mom2rtk View Post
Your zoom has a variable aperture. The aperture is the part that opens and closes inside the lens to let in more or less light. More expensive lenses have a bigger apertures, making them better in low light.

In a variable aperture lens, the largest available aperture is smaller and smaller the more you zoom in. So at a wider length (less zoomed in) you get a larger aperture letting in more light. So in these situations, it is better to not zoom in as much, but shoot on the highest quality setting, then just crop down as needed.
.
All true. But I've also been told, to avoid camera shake, your maximum shutter speed should be about the inverse of you focal length. So at 50mm, you can use a shutter speed of 1/50, while at 200mm, your camera is more sensitive to movement so you need 1/200. Maybe it's all bogus, but it does seem to work for me.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:55 AM   #4190
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All true. But I've also been told, to avoid camera shake, your maximum shutter speed should be about the inverse of you focal length. So at 50mm, you can use a shutter speed of 1/50, while at 200mm, your camera is more sensitive to movement so you need 1/200. Maybe it's all bogus, but it does seem to work for me.
Yes, that's roughly true. But everyone will need to experiment themselves with what they can sharply handhold. With IS, even my shaky hands can do a tad better than the inverse. But it's a great rule of thumb to start with.

OP, a great place to start here would be to put your camera in aperture priority mode. Set it to the widest aperture your lens will do (the smallest number). Move your ISO up. I'd start with 1600 for the low light you had, but I've been happy with my T2i up to 3200. Then take some practice shots and see what shutter speed your camera comes up with. You found out last week it needs to be faster than you had. If it's not fast enough, raise your ISO. Bottom line is I'd rather have a noisy photo than a blurry one.

I shot a track meet last year under the lights with my T2i:


track325b by mom2rtk, on Flickr

You can see his foot is a little blurry, but overall, I was happy with the compromise. I shot this at 3200 ISO, but I shot in RAW and used Lightroom 3 to reduce the noise. If you don't have LR3, I highly recommend it. Doing this gives you the latitude to use a higher ISO and get a faster shutter speed. You can download a trial version free online. Then if you have a student in your home (which it appears you do) find an educational software site and you can get a great price on it.

The shot above was at 1/200. That's what it took to stop the action (sort of) in track. And to overcome my shaky hands. This lens was faster though, so you'll have to balance that with what you have. The aperture was 3.5 on this shot.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:46 AM   #4191
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:13 AM   #4192
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:23 AM   #4193
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:26 PM   #4194
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:13 AM   #4195
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:40 PM   #4196
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:36 PM   #4197
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:52 AM   #4198
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:38 AM   #4199
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:46 AM   #4200
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LOL, Where did you find that Mike?
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