D700 Focus issues? Help please!

[wenrob]

First let me preface this by saying I know there's a learning curve but this seems like a really odd problem and I'm hoping you guys can help me diagnose it. And forgive the color/comp, these were just quick tests.
I have always used Af-S Dynamic area on the D90 and in the last year and half have been toggling focus. I am pretty good nailing my focus even at wide open apps with multiple people in the pic. It's the type of photography I'm into and so I practice A LOT. What I'm saying is I'm pretty confident in my focus abilities. That said this could totally be me.:confused3
At first I thought I might have a DOP issue since I know full frame has a shallower DOP. But the weird thing is the camera seems to focus one side or the other and tends to prefer a certain Sassy Red Head. It seems for DOP it should fall off on both sides right?

My focus settings here were AF-S Dynamic 51 points. Shot at f/2.8 which at first made me think it was a DOP thing. See how sharp she is and how his eyes and bangs are a smidge fuzzy?
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0049/1172599321_BmXMy-L.jpg
So I decided to test things out and took these at f/4.5
Purposely aimed at DH's arm in the center. DS is sharp but DH is not.
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0121/1174634709_MBVEg-L.jpg
Focus aimed right between them, DH sharp, DS soft:
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0122/1174629970_Wmk3y-L.jpg
Again center on DH, the camera chose (?) DD:
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0124/1174631803_qnerB-L.jpg
These are f/3.5 both focused on DS's right eye. Moved the switch to single only thinking that was the problem. Again the focus hits DD:
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0136/1174636638_WGxSu-L.jpg
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0137/1174638499_MdaFG-L.jpg
Succeeded here, focus spot on DS's right eye again:
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0129/1174643298_Eae6V-L.jpg
So what am I doing wrong? Or am I? It does this with both lenses. I'm really hoping this is user error but I just can't figure it out. Like I said I'm pretty steady I don't think I'm shifting in anyway and it's not a blur issue but a weird fall off issue?

[GrillMouster]

As you said, depth of field is more shallow on a full-frame camera than it is on a crop-sensor camera at the same aperture setting. In nearly all of the images you posted the subjects are not on the exact same focal plane. One person's eyes are slightly closer to the camera than the other person's eyes (I mention the eyes, because in portraiture that's what you want in critical focus, so focus on them). At f/2.8, standing a few feet away from the subjects you're talking about just an inch or two of depth of field.

[wenrob]

As you said, depth of field is more shallow on a full-frame camera than it is on a crop-sensor camera at the same aperture setting. In nearly all of the images you posted the subjects are not on the exact same focal plane. One person's eyes are slightly closer to the camera than the other person's eyes (I mention the eyes, because in portraiture that's what you want in critical focus, so focus on them). At f/2.8, standing a few feet away from the subjects you're talking about just an inch or two of depth of field.
Doing some reading and it seems I'm going to have to relearn my DOP all over again. I really thought f/4.5 would be more then sufficient. I'll close it down some more and retry. I think I just had a panic moment, lol. Just seems weird one side or the other and the camera clearly favors DD.:laughing:

[GrillMouster]

Oh, and not all things that fall within the depth of field, or range of acceptable focus, is going to be equally sharp. The area you focus on will be critically sharp and sharpness will gradually drop off in front and in back of that focal point. Generally, depth of field extends 1/3 in front of the point and 2/3 behind. So, if you have two subjects with eyes close together, you'll get better chances of having them both fall within the depth of field if you focus on the eyes of the one closer than if you focus on the eyes of the further. If you're shooting a group arranged in four rows, you'd want to focus on the second row of people (and ensure you're aperture is stopped down enough).

[wenrob]

Oh, and not all things that fall within the depth of field, or range of acceptable focus, is going to be equally sharp. The area you focus on will be critically sharp and sharpness will gradually drop off in front and in back of that focal point. Generally, depth of field extends 1/3 in front of the point and 2/3 behind. So, if you have two subjects with eyes close together, you'll get better chances of having them both fall within the depth of field if you focus on the eyes of the one closer than if you focus on the eyes of the further. If you're shooting a group arranged in four rows, you'd want to focus on the second row of people (and ensure you're aperture is stopped down enough).
Yeah I just didn't expect it would fall off to one side but looking at them DD does seem to be prominent in most of them.

[GrillMouster]

Doing some reading and it seems I'm going to have to relearn my DOP all over again. I really thought f/4.5 would be more then sufficient. I'll close it down some more and retry. I think I just had a panic moment, lol. Just seems weird one side or the other and the camera clearly favors DD.:laughing:

Hold on; you keep saying that the AF is "favoring" DD, so you're letting the camera determine where it focuses? You're not tracking birds or fast-moving subjects. With reasonably static subjects, just use single-point AF, no tracking. You can move the focus point to where you want it. If you're using the center focus point and recomposing it could be trouble at really wide apertures.

[gruZ]

Have you tried an "official" focus test? I've used this one before:

http://focustestchart.com/chart.html

and it's worked very well. If you take out all the other variables you should be able to tell whether or not the camera has a problem.

[wenrob]

Hold on; you keep saying that the AF is "favoring" DD, so you're letting the camera determine where it focuses? You're not tracking birds or fast-moving subjects. With reasonably static subjects, just use single-point AF, no tracking. You can move the focus point to where you want it. If you're using the center focus point and recomposing it could be trouble at really wide apertures.
No, no, I'm moving the focus point where I want it, I don't recompose. I haven't let the camera choose in years. This is why I got concerned. In these pics I put the focus on DS more and it still focuses on her. I'm not moving, they're not moving. Her hair, eyes etc are tack sharp and him it falls off even though the focus was aimed more towards him.

eta: It doesn't seem to be falling off like normal DOP field to me which is why I posted. It seems like the camera is "choosing" even though I set it up for ME to choose.

[GrillMouster]

In the custom setting menu I use 51-point 3D (not 51, or 21, 9, or whatever else there is). The 3D tracking option is the only one that will actually show you in the viewfinder where the active AF sensor is moving/tracking in the frame. The other options will use the surrounding sensor points to track, but will not show you which of the surrounding points are active. I think the visual 3D tracking only works if your AF mode is AF-C and the sensor selector on the back is set to full auto (big white box) or the center setting. With a single flip of a switch and without moving the camera from my eye I can go from 3D tracking to single-sensor AF, my two preferred modes.

Additionally, I've moved my AF function away from the shutter release button to the button on the back of the camera. This way, I can push the back button with my thumb to get focus. Once it's achieved focus, simply letting go of the button essentially locks the focus in place (so it won't stray or track). When I press the shutter release button it WON'T try to AF again. I've been working this way for years now and I love the control it gives me over both focus and exposure.

Correction: The 51-point 3D tracking does not work with the back AF mode switch in the top (full auto) mode. It only works in the center (crosshair) mode with AF-C.

[GrillMouster]

In the camera you can change the playback settings to show which focus sensor it used when the picture was taken.

[wenrob]

When I tried the 3D it seemed like it just jumped all over the place and I couldn't half press fast enough to lock it. Can you use the AF-On button to BBF? I'm left eyed so the AF-L lock is not in a good spot for me. Also in AF-C I don't get the beep which I've become so dependent on.

If my kids will let me I'm going to close it down some more and see if that helps. Then work my way down again. I guess I should have more patience I've only owned the camera for a couple of days and not had alot of shooting time yet.

[wenrob]

In the camera you can change the playback settings to show which focus sensor it used when the picture was taken.
Yeah, I have that set which is why I'm so confused on where the focus fell when it shows me where it was aimed, kwim?

[GrillMouster]

When I tried the 3D it seemed like it just jumped all over the place and I couldn't half press fast enough to lock it. Can you use the AF-On button to BBF? I'm left eyed so the AF-L lock is not in a good spot for me. Also in AF-C I don't get the beep which I've become so dependent on.

If my kids will let me I'm going to close it down some more and see if that helps. Then work my way down again. I guess I should have more patience I've only owned the camera for a couple of days and not had alot of shooting time yet.

3D can jump all over if the scene is dark, there's not much contrast, and/or there's something touching or really close to your subject that resembles the subject in tone or contrast. For example, two kids touching heads...It's very easy for tracking to jump around. That's why I jump to single-sensor AF. Tracking isn't necessary for static subjects; it can ruin things, like vibration reduction can ruin a tripod-shot image.

I shoot left-eyed, too, and I don't have a problem using the back AF button. I don't know if AF-C disables the audible focus-lock sound, as I immediately mute the camera as soon as I buy it. Besides, the viewfinder has a little dot that appears when focus is locked and the AF sensor in the viewfinder highlights in green when it's achieved focus. BBF?

Something else to check out in the settings is the capture priority. I use release + focus. I think it's set to release by default, which means that the shutter will release even if it hasn't locked on focus. Focus priority means that it will wait until focus is locked before shooting (too slow and gets in the way). I prefer Release + Focus (good compromise).

[GrillMouster]

Yeah, I have that set which is why I'm so confused on where the focus fell when it shows me where it was aimed, kwim?

Hmmm. I know the function exists, but I don't use it. Maybe with non-3D dynamic AF it shows the selected focus point rather than the surrounding ones that it used to track.

Anyway, like I said, I don't like the camera tracking stuff on its own if I can't tell where it's shifting focus.

Even when 3D tracking "jumps around", because I have the AF function moved to the back button, as soon as it's locked on, I release the AF button before it can jump anywhere else (essentially locking focus).

[GrillMouster]

Another setting I change is the number of user-selectable AF sensor points. 51 is way too many to scroll through. I think I use nine or eleven (don't remember which is it). With that many I can always find a sensor that's close enough to the subject that I can focus & recompose, even at very shallow depth of field.

[GrillMouster]

Oh, and another thing (hahaha) the center focus sensor is usually the most accurate. Next in accuracy are all the cross-type sensors (the three center columns, fifteen cross-type sensors in all, which is a lot). The other sensors are only horizontal-type (I think), and not as accurate.

[wenrob]

3D can jump all over if the scene is dark, there's not much contrast, and/or there's something touching or really close to your subject that resembles the subject in tone or contrast. For example, two kids touching heads...It's very easy for tracking to jump around. That's why I jump to single-sensor AF. Tracking isn't necessary for static subjects; it can ruin things, like vibration reduction can ruin a tripod-shot image.

I shoot left-eyed, too, and I don't have a problem using the back AF button. I don't know if AF-C disables the audible focus-lock sound, as I immediately mute the camera as soon as I buy it. Besides, the viewfinder has a little dot that appears when focus is locked and the AF sensor in the viewfinder highlights in green when it's achieved focus. BBF?

Something else to check out in the settings is the capture priority. I use release + focus. I think it's set to release by default, which means that the shutter will release even if it hasn't locked on focus. Focus priority means that it will wait until focus is locked before shooting (too slow and gets in the way). I prefer Release + Focus (good compromise).
BBF-Back Button Focus
Yes, I have it set to Release+Focus
When I try to use the AF-L button I poke myself in my right eye with my thumb.

Hmmm. I know the function exists, but I don't use it. Maybe with non-3D dynamic AF it shows the selected focus point rather than the surrounding ones that it used to track.

Anyway, like I said, I don't like the camera tracking stuff on its own if I can't tell where it's shifting focus.

Even when 3D tracking "jumps around", because I have the AF function moved to the back button, as soon as it's locked on, I release the AF button before it can jump anywhere else (essentially locking focus).
But I'm not tracking, I'm using AF-S, single shot. It doesn't make sense that it would show me just what I selected does it? That would be kind of useless to have if that's all it did.

Another setting I change is the number of user-selectable AF sensor points. 51 is way too many to scroll through. I think I use nine or eleven (don't remember which is it). With that many I can always find a sensor that's close enough to the subject that I can focus & recompose, even at very shallow depth of field.
Going to try this. I am coming from 11, that's a huge leap, lol. I've never been a focus/recomposer.
I appreciate you taking the time.:goodvibes

[wenrob]

Oh, and another thing (hahaha) the center focus sensor is usually the most accurate. Next in accuracy are all the cross-type sensors (the three center columns, fifteen cross-type sensors in all, which is a lot). The other sensors are only horizontal-type (I think), and not as accurate.
Definatly going to drop the number of points down for now, so I'll keep that in mind. Now to find willing subjects...

I was telling DH I know the D90 in and out and probably subconsciously I'm expecting the D700 to react the same. I'll report back if I make any progress.

[GrillMouster]

...When I try to use the AF-L button I poke myself in my right eye with my thumb...

:lmao: Sorry, didnt' mean to laugh at you. :lmao:
I've never had that problem. I just am used to it. I don't really think about it; it just happens naturally. I don't try to put my thumb on the button after I've put the camera to my eye or move it away (that might cause poking). My thumb rests on the back AF button an my index finger rests on the shutter release button before I put the camera up to my eye and they rest on those positions after I've pressed the respective buttons. No poking. :)


But I'm not tracking, I'm using AF-S, single shot. It doesn't make sense that it would show me just what I selected does it? That would be kind of useless to have if that's all it did.

3D tracking only works in AF-C, but the other dynamic AF modes (9-point, 21-point, and 51-point) do work in AF-S (the switch in the front). For the other (not 3D) dynamic AF modes, it's the AF mode dial on the back of the camera that will determine whether it tracks. In single-point AF (the bottom option) it will not track.

The way I think about it, so I don't get confused, is that the switch on the front is for controlling whether the camera will track a subject moving toward me or away from me, but in the same spot within the frame. In AF-C it will continuously detect and adjust focus if the subject changes distance, but in AF-S it won't. The switch on the back controls the focus points with regard to a subject changing location within the frame (left, right, up, or down). 3D tracking requires tracking in all axis, so AF-C is required on the front switch and the crosshairs is required on the back switch. The other dynamic tracking modes are primarily interested in detecting whether a subject is moving up, down, left, or right in the frame (not just closer or farther), so they'll still work when the front switch is set to AF-S. When the back switch is set to single-point focus (bottom option) no dynamic tracking happens.

[wenrob]

:lmao: Sorry, didnt' mean to laugh at you. :lmao:
I've never had that problem. I just am used to it. I don't really think about it; it just happens naturally. I don't try to put my thumb on the button after I've put the camera to my eye or move it away (that might cause poking). My thumb rests on the back AF button an my index finger rests on the shutter release button before I put the camera up to my eye and they rest on those positions after I've pressed the respective buttons. No poking. :)
No worries, it IS kinda funny!:lmao:



3D tracking only works in AF-C, but the other dynamic AF modes (9-point, 21-point, and 51-point) do work in AF-S (the switch in the front). For the other (not 3D) dynamic AF modes, it's the AF mode dial on the back of the camera that will determine whether it tracks. In single-point AF (the bottom option) it will not track.

The way I think about it, so I don't get confused, is that the switch on the front is for controlling whether the camera will track a subject moving toward me or away from me, but in the same spot within the frame. In AF-C it will continuously detect and adjust focus if the subject changes distance, but in AF-S it won't. The switch on the back controls the focus points with regard to a subject changing location within the frame (left, right, up, or down). 3D tracking requires tracking in all axis, so AF-C is required on the front switch and the crosshairs is required on the back switch. The other dynamic tracking modes are primarily interested in detecting whether a subject is moving up, down, left, or right in the frame (not just closer or farther), so they'll still work when the front switch is set to AF-S. When the back switch is set to single-point focus (bottom option) no dynamic tracking happens.
I think the problem I'm having is I have so many more choices, it's hard to keep it straight. I just finished reading this in the manual for probably the 100th time. Let me see if I have this:
If S on the front is selected and the single small box is selected, no tracking is supposed to happen right? It should focus where I put the box and that's it. If my subject or I move they'll most likely be OOF unless I get lucky. (which chances would be better if I had a handle of DOF on a FF camera)

If S is selected on the front and the middle box (cross hairs) is selected then I can select my point but it would possibly move to the next nearest sensor if my subject moved. Am I getting this? This is what I thought was initially happening and switched to S front, S back.

Reading (again) it seems I can only select a smaller # of focus points if I have the cross hairs selected. Otherwise, S front, S back gives me all 51 whether I want them or not.

Thanks so much for taking the time. It's frustrating to know what I'm doing but not know what I'm doing. Totally different beast!

[GrillMouster]

I think the problem I'm having is I have so many more choices, it's hard to keep it straight...

Another reason for moving AF to the back AF-ON button (I'm not meaning to harp on that, just pointing out that this greatly minimizes what I have to keep track of).

Let me see if I have this:
If S on the front is selected and the single small box is selected, no tracking is supposed to happen right?

Correct. Whatever focus point you select and only that point will be it.

If S is selected on the front and the middle box (cross hairs) is selected then I can select my point but it would possibly move to the next nearest sensor if my subject moved. Am I getting this?

Correct, if your Dynamic AF is set to 9, 21, or 51 focus points. AF-C would also work with those same Dynamic AF settings. Basically, if the camera senses that the subject may have moved, it will search the 9 (or 21 or 51 depending on what you set in the menu) focus sensors immediately surrounding the selected focus sensor. The fewer dynamic AF points you have set, the faster AF tracking will be. Unfortunately, the viewfinder doesn't show you which of those surrounding sensors it's actually using; only the original selected focus sensor is highlighted. However, I think if you have the "info" screen showing on the back I think it will show the surrounding dynamic AF points. If you're using the 51-point 3D setting (different from the normal 51-point setting), then tracking would only occur in AF-C, and the viewfinder would show you which sensor it's using (you called it "jumping around").

Reading (again) it seems I can only select a smaller # of focus points if I have the cross hairs selected. Otherwise, S front, S back gives me all 51 whether I want them or not.

No, the number of focal points that you're able to select are determined by a completely different menu setting (a8). This makes it so that you either have 11 or 51 focus points to scroll through in both of the bottom settings on the back (crosshair and single). For speed I prefer to only have 11 available for me to scroll through. All 51 focus points are still available to the camera if tracking is enabled.

Have you gone bonkers yet? :dance3:

Like I said above, my settings give me maximum flexibility with minimal thought or memorization of all these options.

[wenrob]

Yep I've officially lost my mind! Haha!
Gotcha I'll set it to 11 and see how that works for me. I'll also give the AF-On button a whirl and see what that gets me.
I'll report back and let you know what happens. Not tonight though, too much swimming through my brain. Plus my models are done for the day.
Thanks again!

[photo_chick]

On depth of field... here is an interesting thing I came across. I like the images he has that compares DoF on crop vs DoF on full frame.

http://www.have-camera-will-travel.com/field_reports/full_frame_vs_crop_sensor_-.html

[wenrob]

On depth of field... here is an interesting thing I came across. I like the images he has that compares DoF on crop vs DoF on full frame.

http://www.have-camera-will-travel.com/field_reports/full_frame_vs_crop_sensor_-.html
Thank you for that.:thumbsup2

[GrillMouster]

The problem with that link is that he's comparing different fields off view. Depth of field is affected by aperture, focal length, and camera-subject distance. Because a full-frame body gives a wider view, you have to get closer to achieve the same field of view as you would get with a crop-sensor body. Because you're closer, you get shallower depth of field. I understand his point that it's not the camera itself that is causing a difference, but I think he's being a bit too literal. In the real world, a person photographing a head and shoulders portrait with a crop body, who then switches to a full frame body would step forward to get the same framing. He/she wouldn't just stand in the same spot and settle for a full body portrait when (s)he wanted a head and shoulders portrait.

[wenrob]

The problem with that link is that he's comparing different fields off view. Depth of field is affected by aperture, focal length, and camera-subject distance. Because a full-frame body gives a wider view, you have to get closer to achieve the same field of view as you would get with a crop-sensor body. Because you're closer, you get shallower depth of field. I understand his point that it's not the camera itself that is causing a difference, but I think he's being a bit too literal. In the real world, a person photographing a head and shoulders portrait with a crop body, who then switches to a full frame body would step forward to get the same framing. He/she wouldn't just stand in the same spot and settle for a full body portrait when (s)he wanted a head and shoulders portrait.
This makes sense. Really, it's all about me learning the camera I think. DH reminded me how frustrated I was when I first moved from a PnS to the D40 and then again to the D90. I just need someone to turn these kids into cooperative angels that need nothing more then to pose for Mama.:lmao:

[pjacobi]

The best way to improve these sample photos would be to use an external flash bounced off the ceiling. That way, you will be shooting at f/8 which will eliminate focus and depth-of-field issues.

-Paul

[wenrob]

The best way to improve these sample photos would be to use an external flash bounced off the ceiling. That way, you will be shooting at f/8 which will eliminate focus and depth-of-field issues.

-Paul
Why would I shoot f/8 with a flash? I'm well versed in using a flash but part of the reason for this camera is it's high ISO capability and my desire to move away from the flash a bit. Admittedly those shots could use a flash and/or more attention to exposure but I was simply taking them to show what I was talking about.
I think GrillMouster and I have narrowed it down to my focus technique and a bit of DoF issue.

[GrillMouster]

Your primary concern has been that focus seem to be shifting from your intended subject to the other. We've discussed why that may be happening. However, even if you were able to solve that problem you'd probably still only have one, not both, subjects in focus. So your depth of field is too narrow for this particular situation. One way of increasing depth of field, as previously touched upon, is stepping further away from the subjects and using a longer focal length to achieve the same framing. For example, instead of standing three feet away at 70mm, stand six feet away at 140mm. Your depth of field would go from one inch to almost one foot.

Another way to increase your depth of field is to use a smaller aperture. Adding light to the scene would allow you to use a smaller aperture and maintain exposure. You can add light by using a lamp, reflector, moving the subjects closer to a window, or, as pjacobi suggested, by using flash (f/8 not necessary). Instead of, or addition to adding light, you can use a slower shutter speed to allow light to hit the sensor for a longer period of time. Another option is to increase the ISO sensitivity. Your camera in particular has excellent high ISO performance. You could have easily increased the ISO and stopped down the aperture to get more of the scene in focus.

Is there a reason you're set on using f/2.8? I find that many amateurs are getting caught up in some kind of fad of always using the maximum aperture without really understanding why. There should ALWAYS be a reason for the settings you choose. In portraiture, shallow depth of field is usually desired so that the subject stands out and so that the background and distracting elements (that haven't already been de-emphasized through angle, composition and lighting) can be minimized by blurring them out. You can achieve that goal with aperture settings of f/3.5, f/4, and even f/5.6. Sometimes f/2.8 is "too much of a good thing". You don't always have to aim for the shallowest depth of field possible; you should aim for the shallowest depth of field NECESSARY.:thumbsup2

[wenrob]

Grillmouster, I'm well aware of all of that. It seemed he was suggesting f/8 as a flash setting which I didn't get.
I'm used to nailing focus on 3 kids at f/2.8 eight out of ten times which is the only reason why I started there. That's why I went ahead and closed down to f/4.5 and f/3.5 on the other test shots thinking it was more then enough. As has been discussed that's not quite enough for the D700. It's just going to take some practice to get to know the camera. I do know how to get proper exposure and I more then understand what I need to do and why. Those pics don't reflect that but at the time my concern was that there may be something wrong with the focus. You've talked me through that and I plan on putting what we've discussed into practice.:thumbsup2

eta:the pics with my DH I did use a flash.

[wenrob]

One of the first test shots after I started thinking DoF may be the cause:
f/4.5 ISO 800 SS 160, SB600 bounced off a wall to my right.
http://wenrob.smugmug.com/Other/shot-of-the-day/0119/1174632985_tZpqu-XL.jpg
I chose those settings as I wanted the flash to not have to work as hard and my SS over 100 because they're kids, they move! I was a good five feet from them, zoomed to 62mm. This is when I started to think it was a focus issue as the focus spot hits DS's hair where it meets DD's hair yet DD is sharp and focus falls off of DS(though not as bad as the others). I'm used to focus falling off both sides not one side or the other.

I guess I'm just saying I'm aware of exposure and flash and how to use them to my advantage. The only thing I did to these pics was contrast, color and WB, my exposure was not tweaked. It seems I'm not aware of just how different the DoF is on the D700 or how much more sophisticated the focus system is. On the D90 I would have them both sharp at f/2.8 easy.

[pgowder]

Hold on; you keep saying that the AF is "favoring" DD, so you're letting the camera determine where it focuses? You're not tracking birds or fast-moving subjects. With reasonably static subjects, just use single-point AF, no tracking. You can move the focus point to where you want it. If you're using the center focus point and recomposing it could be trouble at really wide apertures.

If I'm shooting portraits with the D700 I always use the single point and place it where I want it.

There may be other ways to do it. But using the single point, you know for sure you got it!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5306828700_0b6fbe266b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/96077153@N00/5306828700/)
Christmas Portrait (http://www.flickr.com/photos/96077153@N00/5306828700/) by Paul Gowder (http://www.flickr.com/people/96077153@N00/), on Flickr
f2.8 @ 135mm