And You Thought Digital Was Confusing?!

[annnewjerz]

Another purchase I can blame on Jeff ;)

For the past few weeks, I have been agonizing over what to get my cousin for her going away party and Jeff unknowingly helped me figure it out. She will be leaving NJ to attend the University of Hawaii in a week. I couldn't afford a new (or even used) surfboard for her and I didn't want to give her cash. I wanted to get her something cool and different, something cheap, something she could enjoy out in Hawaii on a college student's part-time pay.

So.........

..............I bought her a Holga. And while I was at it, for only $27 I figured I should buy myself one too, since I didn't get that new lens I had been wanting recently. :upsidedow


Here is where the embarassing part begins.

I'm 25 years old and other than disposable cameras and polaroid instants (does that even count as film? :confused3) I have NEVER used film in my life. This is sad, I am aware.

I popped open the camera box, got all the parts sorted and then started reading things like film masks, film advance knob and frame number pointer and immediately thought that I should send this thing back. It was all waaaaay too complex for me. :eek:

I somehow managed to load the film and get it on the take-up spool and didn't see any number appearing in the little red window on the back as I cranked away. I kept turning and turning and still nothing. I thought to myself that maybe I got a dud roll of film or maybe I'm just an idiot. Turns out it was neither, I was just impatient because after what seemed like 20 full turns the numbers started.

Now that I'm all set up, using this little plastic POS on my lunch break has been fun. I can only imagine where I'm going to get 120 film developed and how much it'll cost per roll of 12 images, but I'll worry about that later. :rolleyes1

Who would have thought that digital would be less confusing than film? Not me, that's for sure.

[Gdad]

Okay- first off remember YouTube is your friend. I never used 120 Film before getting a Holga either but do a quick search for what you want- there are a lot of resources online. The first roll or two was a little confusing but after that you get it figured out without too much effort.

What kind of film did you get? If you bought color film (or BW400CN) that is C-41 processing most photo-center machines will take it- I get mine done in 1-Hour at Sam's Club for $1.50 a roll. Of course not all photo-center workers know how to deal with it- finding one who does may take some calling around. They also probably can't scan or print it either- I scan my own and rarely print anything anyway. B&W silver film they can't usually do in either 120 or 35mm anymore anyway and have to send it off to a lab- so I do that myself. If you want to have even MORE fun with film now THAT is fun. My kids think I am some kind of mad scientist now mixing up chemicals in the kitchen sink. ;)

Congrats on the Holga by the way- There is a great Film Forum on Nikon Cafe and quite a few Holga and Film groups on Flickr. Here's a few links:

http://www.nikoncafe.com/vforums/forumdisplay.php?f=151

http://www.flickr.com/groups/ishootfilm/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/holgagraphy/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/sprocket_holes/

[Gdad]

All this Holga talk I should add a few pictures~

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2554/3832539178_bd83f81a41.jpg

Taken with built-in blue flash gel ;)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2470/3828421325_d7a137352b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3551/3828398481_280cd6410c.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2627/3831739343_ef5c6f8deb.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2597/3823059559_95273f844d_b.jpg

[annnewjerz]

Alright, Jeff---I've got about a million questions/comments for you. I would PM you, but for anyone else who is as influenced by Jeff's cool purchases as I am, I have decided to make my questions public. :cool2: Plus, my cousin is only 18, so I'm going to definitely have to teach her all about the camera, which I'm not ready at all to do. :lmao:

1. YouTube is my friend. I used it to figure out how to properly use that 35mm film adapter that I bought with the camera---I just I just never thought anyone would be so bored that they would make a video of how to load film into a camera. :laughing:

2. I got Fuji Reala, some Kodak TMax400 (I think that's what it's called, box is at home but it's B&W film) and some "normal" color film. Any particular film that you would recommend? Being from the digital generation---I wouldn't know one kind from another, I just bought what seemed cheap. :thumbsup2

3. Okay so Sam's Club can probably develop my film, but not print or scan it? Who would have thought that would be the tricky part. I probably won't have much interest in these pictures getting printed either, so let's just say I want to scan the negatives so I can post them online---what type of scanner do you use, might I ask?

4. AND, if I'm just getting a negative back, what in the world happens with the colors when I scan it in? I know in negatives they are usually backwards (or whatever the technical term for this is) so how do I flip the colors back to how they would look in a normal printed photo?

5. I looked on Adorama today at reels, chemicals, etc. for doing your own developing and got very overwhelmed. I thought you needed a dark room for this kind of bologna?! I didn't think you could just do it in your sink....

6. Thank you for the links. I got the dinky 120N (see, even with a $25 camera I still can't out-do yours ;)) so there is no flash to worry about for now, unless I splurge and buy the Holga $15 external flash. :rotfl:

7. Last but not least, your pictures are pretty darn awesome with this camera as usual, Jeff. Thank you for posting them and as always I'm looking forward to seeing more.

[seashoreCM]

You need a film scanner to scan negatives and transparencies. Very few film scanners will do 120 film (6x6 cm frames).

A film scanner has the light on the opposite side of the material being scanned as opposed to on the same side of the material for "regular" scanning. Combination film and paper flatbed scanners have the light for film scanning in the lid and usually only a one inch strip (enough for a 35mm frame positioned lengthwise) is illuminated.

[Gdad]

Alright, Jeff---I've got about a million questions/comments for you. I would PM you, but for anyone else who is as influenced by Jeff's cool purchases as I am, I have decided to make my questions public. :cool2: Plus, my cousin is only 18, so I'm going to definitely have to teach her all about the camera, which I'm not ready at all to do. :lmao:

1. YouTube is my friend. I used it to figure out how to properly use that 35mm film adapter that I bought with the camera---I just I just never thought anyone would be so bored that they would make a video of how to load film into a camera. :laughing:

What is a 35mm adapter? I just tape the end of the film to the winding reel and stuff some cardboard on the top and bottom of the film cartridge so it does not bounce around too much. Of course this way you have to unload the film in total darkness and rewind it back into the canister by hand. By the way- do you know the Holga with 35mm film in it exposes the whole sheet of film including around the sprocket holes? As opposed to a regular 35mm shot which just exposes the frame and looks like THIS (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/3086498889_55781355f2_b.jpg).

2. I got Fuji Reala, some Kodak TMax400 (I think that's what it's called, box is at home but it's B&W film) and some "normal" color film. Any particular film that you would recommend? Being from the digital generation---I wouldn't know one kind from another, I just bought what seemed cheap. :thumbsup2

Okay the Fuji Reala is a C-41 film which means it can be processed at a photo-mart type place so long as they have a machine that takes it (most do) and a tech that knows how (some do- I found one the 2nd place I tried.) If you don't care about doing your own developing then for B&W I would recommend Kodak BW400CN- it can also be processed C-41. I think Ilford has a C-41 B&W also but I have never tried it.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw400cn/main2.jhtml

3. Okay so Sam's Club can probably develop my film, but not print or scan it? Who would have thought that would be the tricky part. I probably won't have much interest in these pictures getting printed either, so let's just say I want to scan the negatives so I can post them online---what type of scanner do you use, might I ask?

I use an Epson Perfection V300. If you are scanning negatives or anything transparent you will need something that has a built in illuminator. The V300 is not perfect since the illuminator is *just* wide enough to scan a 35mm strip. I have to scan the 120 film as two files then merge them in photoshop. Not a huge deal but kind of a pain. The one I have is cheap- like $89 at B&H- ones that take larger transparencies are 2-3x that amount.

4. AND, if I'm just getting a negative back, what in the world happens with the colors when I scan it in? I know in negatives they are usually backwards (or whatever the technical term for this is) so how do I flip the colors back to how they would look in a normal printed photo?

On the software that came with my Epson you can choose Color Neg- B&W Neg- and Color Positive (Slides)- so you don't have to figure out how to get that right. They do tend to look a little flat sometimes though so I usually adjust the levels.

5. I looked on Adorama today at reels, chemicals, etc. for doing your own developing and got very overwhelmed. I thought you needed a dark room for this kind of bologna?! I didn't think you could just do it in your sink....

For developing B&W Silver film- I ordered a changing bag (needed for extracting 35mm film from the Holga anyway)- a Tank/Reel kit and a spare reel from B&H. The reels are convertible from 35mm to 120 and the tank holds 1x 120 or 2x 35mm. That lot cost me about $40 and I was chewed on online because supposedly they are cheap/free on CL- Oh well. I also spent maybe another $25 at Wal-Mart on a couple beakers, some 1 Qt containers, a timer and a thermometer. Last I went to a local camera shop to buy the chemistry- all liquid concentrates that B&H will not ship- probably another $40 but this will do a LOT of film. No darkroom is required unless you want to wet print- you load the film onto the reels and seal in the tank inside the dark bag- then the chemicals are a 3 step process- rinse and dry. Times vary depending on temperature, film, etc but nothing all that complicated.

6. Thank you for the links. I got the dinky 120N (see, even with a $25 camera I still can't out-do yours ;)) so there is no flash to worry about for now, unless I splurge and buy the Holga $15 external flash. :rotfl:

I might get one of those too- They come in really cool colors. I see a lot of people who have SEVERAL Holgas. ;)

7. Last but not least, your pictures are pretty darn awesome with this camera as usual, Jeff. Thank you for posting them and as always I'm looking forward to seeing more.

Thanks so much. They are obviously 'not-for-everyone' but I really like the artsy look done in-camera vs. on a computer- plus there is a certain satisfaction in capturing a cool image with a plastic box.

[gokenin]

Alright, Jeff---I've got about a million questions/comments for you. I would PM you, but for anyone else who is as influenced by Jeff's cool purchases as I am, I have decided to make my questions public. :cool2: Plus, my cousin is only 18, so I'm going to definitely have to teach her all about the camera, which I'm not ready at all to do. :lmao:

1. YouTube is my friend. I used it to figure out how to properly use that 35mm film adapter that I bought with the camera---I just I just never thought anyone would be so bored that they would make a video of how to load film into a camera. :laughing:

2. I got Fuji Reala, some Kodak TMax400 (I think that's what it's called, box is at home but it's B&W film) and some "normal" color film. Any particular film that you would recommend? Being from the digital generation---I wouldn't know one kind from another, I just bought what seemed cheap. :thumbsup2
Almost all color film that you get these days can be developed by any of the regular walmart,cvs style developers however when it comes th B&W film there are only two that I know of that you can take to them as well they are the Kodak BW400cn and the Ilford XP-2 these are both C41 process black and white. All other B&W film you will have to find a place that still processes them or develop them yourself
3. Okay so Sam's Club can probably develop my film, but not print or scan it? Who would have thought that would be the tricky part. I probably won't have much interest in these pictures getting printed either, so let's just say I want to scan the negatives so I can post them online---what type of scanner do you use, might I ask?
I dont know about Sam's but I know CVS will scan your films into digital as well. You may not get the best quality scan but they will do if you want high DPI scanner you will have to get one of your own
4. AND, if I'm just getting a negative back, what in the world happens with the colors when I scan it in? I know in negatives they are usually backwards (or whatever the technical term for this is) so how do I flip the colors back to how they would look in a normal printed photo?

5. I looked on Adorama today at reels, chemicals, etc. for doing your own developing and got very overwhelmed. I thought you needed a dark room for this kind of bologna?! I didn't think you could just do it in your sink....
I dont think that you need a darkroom to develop your own film you need a darkroom when you are taking the negative and you are transfering it to paper but just developing the negatives you dont need a blackroom. Again Youtube will be able to help here as there are shorts on how to develop your own negatives there.
6. Thank you for the links. I got the dinky 120N (see, even with a $25 camera I still can't out-do yours ;)) so there is no flash to worry about for now, unless I splurge and buy the Holga $15 external flash. :rotfl:

7. Last but not least, your pictures are pretty darn awesome with this camera as usual, Jeff. Thank you for posting them and as always I'm looking forward to seeing more.

welcome to the world of film cameras once bitten there is no going back

[Gdad]

welcome to the world of film cameras once bitten there is no going back

No kidding-

~~~~ Ann please STOP reading here ~~~~~~~~~~

I've been really wanting to try a camera with a top viewfinder and picked one of these (Super Ricohflex) up on Ebay for $20. Supposedly in working condition with the 35mm back and leather case.

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/images/superinsfrcover.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/images/supercenterspread.jpg

~~~~ Ann you may now resume reading ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[annnewjerz]

Unfortunately, I have some follow-up. :goodvibes

What is a 35mm adapter? I just tape the end of the film to the winding reel and stuff some cardboard on the top and bottom of the film cartridge so it does not bounce around too much. Of course this way you have to unload the film in total darkness and rewind it back into the canister by hand. By the way- do you know the Holga with 35mm film in it exposes the whole sheet of film including around the sprocket holes? As opposed to a regular 35mm shot which just exposes the frame and looks like THIS (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/3086498889_55781355f2_b.jpg).

I did know that with the 35mm it shows the sprocket holes, but I thought I read somewhere in my research that you have to make sure the lab that's developing your film doesn't trim it off of your prints if you get them. We'll see....like I said, may not even get prints made.

Even though I bought the "adapter" (which I had to buy, because I would NEVER think of just taping the film) I believe I still need a changing bag or to just stand in a closet when taking the film out. I'm sure I'll mess up at least the first roll or two, but for a buck or two a roll, that's okay.

If you don't care about doing your own developing then for B&W I would recommend Kodak BW400CN- it can also be processed C-41. I think Ilford has a C-41 B&W also but I have never tried it.

For now, I think I'll stick with learning to shoot on film rather than digital and maybe upgrade to my own developing later. Right now, it would be too many things to wrap my brain around. :rolleyes:

I use an Epson Perfection V300. If you are scanning negatives or anything transparent you will need something that has a built in illuminator. The V300 is not perfect since the illuminator is *just* wide enough to scan a 35mm strip. I have to scan the 120 film as two files then merge them in photoshop. Not a huge deal but kind of a pain. The one I have is cheap- like $89 at B&H- ones that take larger transparencies are 2-3x that amount.

How big of a pain is "a pain" when it comes to scanning the 120 film as two files? I don't have the full Photoshop suite (yet), just Photoshop Elements and the normal Nikon software. For me, it seems silly to spend a huge amount on a scanner for pictures that come off of a $25 camera, so I like the $90 price tag but only if I will actually be able to use it for the 120 film without ripping my hair out.


I ordered a changing bag (needed for extracting 35mm film from the Holga anyway)

Dumb question, but how is removing the film and rolling it in a bag any easier than removing it in a completely dark room and rolling it? Is it just nicer since you don't have to be blind for a minute or two---or is a changing bag really better?

I see a lot of people who have SEVERAL Holgas. ;)

Of course you have. I really hate to say it, but I originally wanted the 120GCFN because it looked like this (http://www.bnsbros.com/shop/holga/GCFN_mix/Holga_ABC.jpg). I think it's too cool for school, DH thinks it is the ugliest thing he has ever seen. Different strokes, different folks.

I figured I'd save the extra $25 and shipping from China and get the basic black 120N until I decided whether or not I liked it. For my wallet's sake---let's just hope I don't like it enough to get another :)

Thank you again so much for all of the input. Most of my questions are probably Google-able, but it's so much more fun to hear it brand new instead of reading responses from 2007. :cutie:

[annnewjerz]

welcome to the world of film cameras once bitten there is no going back

Ugh, I sure hope this isn't true. It seems I never grow out of hobbies and interests, only into them---this doesn't make for a happy DH or a happy bank account. :sad2: :lmao:

[gokenin]

Have four diffrent film cameras, still have my eye out for a good prices 645 package from Pentax (medium format camera) and also a good Yashica TLR just love the look of them

[kaffinito]

I can second Jeff's recommendation on the Kodak BW400CN. I read too that it could be processed C-41.

See I got bitten by Jeff's post as well. :) I got a Holga and a vintage Diana "just for fun." There really is a ton of stuff out there for film and Holgas. It makes for some headachy reading (I've never shot film either) but at least I'm learning.

Just don't start to get interested in cyanographs or pinhole cameras. (You can make your DSLR into a pinhole camera and can use your Hoga lens on your DSLR as well) :upsidedow

Trust me, it's a bleak road down into the photographic abyss.... :badpc:

[jann1033]

No kidding-

~~~~ Ann please STOP reading here ~~~~~~~~~~

I've been really wanting to try a camera with a top viewfinder and picked one of these (Super Ricohflex) up on Ebay for $20. Supposedly in working condition with the 35mm back and leather case.


ok like a fool i've been reading this( and remember the actual days of film, unlike you young uns :)) and i have that same type of camera from my dad in the 50s but no 35mm back it says "use kodak film 620" on it so not sure if that would even be possible to find ...i've been itching to get some B&w film and try it out but haven't yet.... now here you troublemakers are, pushing me past the edge of my resistance:lmao:
it's just i wonder what to tell my husband when i pull it out and he asks where my couple K worth of equipment he just paid for is:rotfl:

a few yrs ago snapfish would develop your color film and put it on a cd. not sure if they still do it or not but that would be cheaper probably than scanning it in. i think my local grocery store still does as well..

[gokenin]

you simply say that you are expanding your photgraphic ablities. Also buying a medium format camera will actually get you a picture with more dymanic range that you current DSLR can achieve unless you have one of the very exspenive full frame or even more expensive digital medium format cameras of course you can get a medium format camera that is compatable with this baby http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/519133-REG/Hasselblad_70370527_CF_39MS_Digital_Back.html#spec ifications

then we are really talking about costly

[jann1033]

i did just see that 120 and 620 are the same size. you can get it processed here and put on a cd....and they sell 120 respooled for 620 cameras as well at b&H for $11 a roll...otherwise you have to respool it yourself in the dark, aww the good old days:rotfl:
http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/newsite2006/B-W-film-processing.html

[Gdad]

Unfortunately, I have some follow-up. :goodvibes

I did know that with the 35mm it shows the sprocket holes, but I thought I read somewhere in my research that you have to make sure the lab that's developing your film doesn't trim it off of your prints if you get them. We'll see....like I said, may not even get prints made.


They won't trim the edges but they will cut in between images that may overlap or have a cool light leak or something. Better to let you decide where to cut and scan.


Even though I bought the "adapter" (which I had to buy, because I would NEVER think of just taping the film) I believe I still need a changing bag or to just stand in a closet when taking the film out. I'm sure I'll mess up at least the first roll or two, but for a buck or two a roll, that's okay.


:scared1: Maybe just a buck or two but PRECIOUS HOLGA IMAGES! ;)


For now, I think I'll stick with learning to shoot on film rather than digital and maybe upgrade to my own developing later. Right now, it would be too many things to wrap my brain around. :rolleyes:


When the lab tells you it takes three weeks to develop your TMax you may reconsider. Thats why I got frustrated- but then again you may have better labs where you live- I'm kind of in the sticks.


How big of a pain is "a pain" when it comes to scanning the 120 film as two files? I don't have the full Photoshop suite (yet), just Photoshop Elements and the normal Nikon software. For me, it seems silly to spend a huge amount on a scanner for pictures that come off of a $25 camera, so I like the $90 price tag but only if I will actually be able to use it for the 120 film without ripping my hair out.


I think PSE will do photomerge- right? I can send you two scans if you like and you can give it a try. The main thing is to make sure the exposure is consistent between the two scans otherwise 1/2 your picture will be lighter/darker.


Dumb question, but how is removing the film and rolling it in a bag any easier than removing it in a completely dark room and rolling it? Is it just nicer since you don't have to be blind for a minute or two---or is a changing bag really better?


When I went to MK last Friday I had the bag in my back pocket- I remember changing film in line at the Carousel and at the Polynesian.


Of course you have. I really hate to say it, but I originally wanted the 120GCFN because it looked like this (http://www.bnsbros.com/shop/holga/GCFN_mix/Holga_ABC.jpg). I think it's too cool for school, DH thinks it is the ugliest thing he has ever seen. Different strokes, different folks.


I like those- I was thinking about getting the Twi-Lite Zone one next personally though.

http://www.adorama.com/CZHNTWZ.html

I have also seen a lot of people paint or sticker them up too.


I figured I'd save the extra $25 and shipping from China and get the basic black 120N until I decided whether or not I liked it. For my wallet's sake---let's just hope I don't like it enough to get another :)


I think next you should find a nice Nikon FE next. THAT is a lot of fun too- and not such a streatch from your DSLR. F100 is nice as well if you want AF.


Thank you again so much for all of the input. Most of my questions are probably Google-able, but it's so much more fun to hear it brand new instead of reading responses from 2007. :cutie:

No problem- glad I could 'help'. Film will really make you a better photographer because you really stop and consider each and every shot.

[annnewjerz]

When the lab tells you it takes three weeks to develop your TMax you may reconsider. Thats why I got frustrated- but then again you may have better labs where you live- I'm kind of in the sticks.

THREE WEEKS?! O-------M----------G. That's a long time. You're right, I might reconsider. Not getting to see the shots I took on lunch today was killer, let alone waiting weeks.



I think PSE will do photomerge- right? I can send you two scans if you like and you can give it a try. The main thing is to make sure the exposure is consistent between the two scans otherwise 1/2 your picture will be lighter/darker.

Yes, I can do photomerge in PE6 (although I never have). Please do, if you wouldn't mind. It's andrea.lusas@gmail.com


When I went to MK last Friday I had the bag in my back pocket- I remember changing film in line at the Carousel and at the Polynesian.

:rotfl: Good point. I guess trying to find a completely pitch black room anywhere but my house might present a problem. :rolleyes1



I like those- I was thinking about getting the Twi-Lite Zone one next personally though.

DH told me to buy this one instead of the colored one. Must be a "men" thing.


I think next you should find a nice Nikon FE next. THAT is a lot of fun too- and not such a streatch from your DSLR. F100 is nice as well if you want AF.

I think the next thing I need to do is stop reading the Photo Board so much and stop making so many purchases!! ::hops over to E-bay to look at said FE and F100:: ;)


No problem- glad I could 'help'. Film will really make you a better photographer because you really stop and consider each and every shot.

As a kid of the digital age, I do take that for granted. If I'm not in the mood to pay much attention and sort of half-a$$ing it, I know I can just take 5 slightly different shots and delete 4 of them when I get home. Today I put in my first roll of 120 film and took a whole 6 pictures over the course of an hour lunch break. It definitely made me more aware of what I was doing.

[kaffinito]

Just to ask a small related question - what size changing bag is the best size to carry around with you? Is 17x17 too big? :)

[Gdad]

I got this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107620-REG/General_Brand__Large_Changing_Bag_27x30_.html

I think a small one would actually be better for carrying around for the Holga- this one rolls up to about the size of a soda can.

[Todd_H]

Great thread so far.

I've been wanting to start dabbling in film. My dad gave me his old Minolta SRT-201, a flash, and a couple of lenses for Christmas (a 50mm f/1.7 and a 24 or 28mm f/2.8, I can't remember off hand).

I've been taking the NYIP course for about 9 months now and finished the film section a few months ago. Most of it made sense from a theory standpoint, however the developing section was VERY intimidating to me :scared1:. Not sure I have the patience for it, but it sure has captured my curiosity. I may take the SRT-201 down to WDW and shoot some film if I can practice with it a bit before we leave.

Love the look of the Holgas, though. Like a Lensbaby, it just screams for you to get creative with it!

[Gdad]

Here is an interesting article about photojournalist David Burnett winning the White House News Photographers' Association's Eyes of History contest with a Holga image of Al Gore.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/photo/essays/vanRiper/010706.htm

[annnewjerz]

Here is an interesting article about photojournalist David Burnett winning the White House News Photographers' Association's Eyes of History contest with a Holga image of Al Gore.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/photo/essays/vanRiper/010706.htm


Very interesting read. AND Burnett has four Holgas. I guess for the price, they're just like Lays potato chips---you can't have just one. ;)

[kaffinito]

I got this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107620-REG/General_Brand__Large_Changing_Bag_27x30_.html

I think a small one would actually be better for carrying around for the Holga- this one rolls up to about the size of a soda can.

Thank you! :goodvibes

[annnewjerz]

So---for all of you film shooters, where do you buy your film?

Obviously, something like 35mm I plan to buy in the store so I don't have to worry about paying shipping. However, it seems like for 120 size film I will need to order it online. Any good place to buy bulk packs or anywhere you find it cheaper than others?

Right now, I have looked on B&H and Adorama, but I'm wondering if I could get lots on places like e-bay without too much worry that it'll be expired when I get it.

[Gdad]

Freestyle

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_main.php

Or Ebay- What's wrong with expired film?

http://www.flickr.com/groups/expired/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/1007137@N22/

[gokenin]

buy in bulk from either adorama or B&H and any film that you think you are not going to use simply leave it in the canister it comes in and place them in the freezer. you will be able to keep it well past the expiration date on the canister. when you thaw the film out keep it in the canister until it has reached room temperature(usually overnight) in order to keep condensation from occuring inside the film catridge

[annnewjerz]

Freestyle

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_main.php

Or Ebay- What's wrong with expired film?

http://www.flickr.com/groups/expired/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/1007137@N22/

Just when I think that I'm getting the hang of things, you go and show me this. I guess I should know by now that anything is possible---even shooting with expired film. :rolleyes1

buy in bulk from either adorama or B&H and any film that you think you are not going to use simply leave it in the canister it comes in and place them in the freezer. you will be able to keep it well past the expiration date on the canister. when you thaw the film out keep it in the canister until it has reached room temperature(usually overnight) in order to keep condensation from occuring inside the film catridge

Thanks for the tip! Right now, I won't be buying in bulk because I'm not sure which film I like yet, but once I get it figured out I'm sure this will save at least a few bucks. :thumbsup2

[annnewjerz]

Okay, so I know a couple posts back I said I wasn't interested in developing my own film because it would just be too much at this point---but too bad, I want to learn now.

After calling several places in the area including (but not limited to) two local camera shops, a Ritz and the Sam's Club per Jeff's claim to getting his rolls of 120 done for like $2 each I'm baffled by the prices that these places want to charge me for just the development, if they are even able to do it at all.

I don't mind paying $10 for digital prints, but to pay $10 to have the film developed in addition to like $3 per roll and then still have to scan it myself all to get 12 pictures per roll---give me a break. :rolleyes:

So, rather than flush $10 down the toilet I'd like to learn more about film developing at home.

Any place you film shooters can direct me so I can figure out A. How to do it a B. What supplies I will need??

I'm only interested in doing the 120 film since 35mm can be developed for a somewhat more reasonable price.

Right now I'm looking to get just your basic stuff, a reel, a tank, whatever chemicals I'll need---just something to get set up and learn with.

HELP PLEASE?! :surfweb:

[gokenin]

I have not taken the step to developing my own film yet to tell the truth. I know that both Adorama and B&H both have the supplies needed for you to set up your own darkroom and develop your film, I did a quick look at Amazon and came across this book http://www.amazon.com/Into-Your-Darkroom-Step/dp/0936262060/ref=pd_cp_b_3 I am sure there are others but this one appears to be helpful from the reviews. Hope this helps and thats the problem with medium format film the odd size makes it a pain to have developed the same can be said from "true" B&W film as well

[Gdad]

Okay- Here goes.

First off- what are you trying to get developed? Is it the Fuji Realaor the TMax 400? The Tmax like most B&W films none of the 1-Hour places will be able to do anything but send it off regardless if it's 120 or 35mm. Plus that takes weeks and is expensive- but you can develop it yourself and it's not too complicated or expensive. The Fuji is a C-41 process so I have no idea how to do it yourself but I have heard it is way more complicated and picky than B&W is. That is what I found a 1-Hour lab that will do for $1.60 a roll but maybe I just got lucky.

Anyway- to develop my own B&W here is what I have:


$19 Book: Kodak Black & White Darkroom Dataguide (http://www.amazon.com/Black-White-Darkroom-Dataguide-Publication/dp/0879856025)
$23 Changing Bag: General Brand LARGE CHANGING BAG (27x30) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107620-REG/General_Brand__Large_Changing_Bag_27x30_.html)
$28 Tank Kit: Paterson UNIVERSAL TANK w/1 REEL (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618083-REG/Paterson_PTP115P_PTP115P_Universal_Development_Tan k.html)
$15 Developer: Kodak HC-110 Developer (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27743-REG/Kodak_1408988_HC_110_Developer_Liquid_for.html)
$7 Stop Bath: Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27775-REG/Kodak_1464247_Indicator_Stop_Bath_Liquid_.html)
$8 Fixer: Kodak Kodafix Solution (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27937-REG/Kodak_1464080_Kodafix_Solution_Liquid_for.html)
$8 Rinse: Kodak Photo-Flo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html)


In addition to this I also spent maybe another $30 in the kitchen section of Wal-Mart for the folowing:


Four 1 QT Tupperware drink containers to mix the chemicals in since they can be reused several times
A digital thermometer since processing time varies according to temperature
A digital kitchen timer to time the steps,
A couple measuring devices that measure in ML from the small syringe style to larger ones for measuring say 800ML of water
A bottle opener if you want to open a can of 35mm film
A couple small magnetic 'chip-clips' to hang the film up to dry
A plastic tub to keep it all in


As for the process:


Mix up the four chemicals in the 1 QT containers according to the instructions on the labels. Mix enough to pretty much fill the containers since air degrades the shelf life. And remember to label the bottles.
Working in the changing bag- load the film onto the reel, put the reel into the tank, and seal the lid. 120 film has a paper back which must be removed before loading on the reel. It is probably worth wasting a new roll of film to practice this where you can see a few times first.
Check the temperature of the chemicals- particularly the developer. The book has time tables for temps from 65F-75F if it is warmer than that it will need to cool off in the fridge first.
Pour the chemicals in and out of the tank following the tables in the book for times- Developer- Stop Bath- Fixer- Rinse with water- Photo-Flo right before you pull it off the reel. You will need to knock the tank at the start of each and agitate as instructed for your film (5x every 30 seconds for TMAx)


And that's about it- the film is safe for light when you do the water rinse. The Photo-Flo is just so it dries without streaks. Again there are a lot of videos on Youtube on film developing if you go look. 35mm is easier to load on the reel and the reel in the tank kit I linked to is 'convertible' to either format. The tank holds two reels in the 35mm position so if you think you may want to do that one day you can pick up a spare reel for like $10. Also- I think B&H will not ship the Stop Bath. I picked up all my chemistry at a local photography shop.

Anyway- good luck and have fun. This thread is like a Visa commercial

Plastic Camera: $40
Flatbed Scanner: $150
Film Developing Setup: $200
A little square B&W negative you made yourself: Priceless ;)

[annnewjerz]

Okay- Here goes.

First off- what are you trying to get developed? Is it the Fuji Realaor the TMax 400? The Tmax like most B&W films none of the 1-Hour places will be able to do anything but send it off regardless if it's 120 or 35mm. Plus that takes weeks and is expensive- but you can develop it yourself and it's not too complicated or expensive. The Fuji is a C-41 process so I have no idea how to do it yourself but I have heard it is way more complicated and picky than B&W is. That is what I found a 1-Hour lab that will do for $1.60 a roll but maybe I just got lucky.

Anyway- to develop my own B&W here is what I have:


$19 Book: Kodak Black & White Darkroom Dataguide (http://www.amazon.com/Black-White-Darkroom-Dataguide-Publication/dp/0879856025)
$23 Changing Bag: General Brand LARGE CHANGING BAG (27x30) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107620-REG/General_Brand__Large_Changing_Bag_27x30_.html)
$28 Tank Kit: Paterson UNIVERSAL TANK w/1 REEL (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618083-REG/Paterson_PTP115P_PTP115P_Universal_Development_Tan k.html)
$15 Developer: Kodak HC-110 Developer (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27743-REG/Kodak_1408988_HC_110_Developer_Liquid_for.html)
$7 Stop Bath: Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27775-REG/Kodak_1464247_Indicator_Stop_Bath_Liquid_.html)
$8 Fixer: Kodak Kodafix Solution (Liquid Concentrate) (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27937-REG/Kodak_1464080_Kodafix_Solution_Liquid_for.html)
$8 Rinse: Kodak Photo-Flo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html)


In addition to this I also spent maybe another $30 in the kitchen section of Wal-Mart for the folowing:


Four 1 QT Tupperware drink containers to mix the chemicals in since they can be reused several times
A digital thermometer since processing time varies according to temperature
A digital kitchen timer to time the steps,
A couple measuring devices that measure in ML from the small syringe style to larger ones for measuring say 800ML of water
A bottle opener if you want to open a can of 35mm film
A couple small magnetic 'chip-clips' to hang the film up to dry
A plastic tub to keep it all in


As for the process:


Mix up the four chemicals in the 1 QT containers according to the instructions on the labels. Mix enough to pretty much fill the containers since air degrades the shelf life. And remember to label the bottles.
Working in the changing bag- load the film onto the reel, put the reel into the tank, and seal the lid. 120 film has a paper back which must be removed before loading on the reel. It is probably worth wasting a new roll of film to practice this where you can see a few times first.
Check the temperature of the chemicals- particularly the developer. The book has time tables for temps from 65F-75F if it is warmer than that it will need to cool off in the fridge first.
Pour the chemicals in and out of the tank following the tables in the book for times- Developer- Stop Bath- Fixer- Rinse with water- Photo-Flo right before you pull it off the reel. You will need to knock the tank at the start of each and agitate as instructed for your film (5x every 30 seconds for TMAx)


And that's about it- the film is safe for light when you do the water rinse. The Photo-Flo is just so it dries without streaks. Again there are a lot of videos on Youtube on film developing if you go look. 35mm is easier to load on the reel and the reel in the tank kit I linked to is 'convertible' to either format. The tank holds two reels in the 35mm position so if you think you may want to do that one day you can pick up a spare reel for like $10. Also- I think B&H will not ship the Stop Bath. I picked up all my chemistry at a local photography shop.

Anyway- good luck and have fun. This thread is like a Visa commercial

Plastic Camera: $40
Flatbed Scanner: $150
Film Developing Setup: $200
A little square B&W negative you made yourself: Priceless ;)

Jeff, you had made at least this part of the process very easy. The work that goes into it, I don't mind spending the time on at all---in the long run, hopefully it'll save me some money.

Here is the film I currently have in 120 size:

Fuji Reala
Kodak Portra 400NC
Kodak Portra 400VR
Some Kodak B&W film that you recommended earlier since it could be processed as C-41.
Kodak TMax 400 that I picked up prior to knowing it would take weeks and $$ to develop.

So basically, to summarize---you develop your own true B&W (like the TMax 400) and send all of the rest of your color film out to be developed?

The kind of film I was getting estimates for getting developed was just regular color 120 film. The responses I got were either a) we don't process that film type, b) we don't process that film type, but we can send it out and have it back in 10 business days or c) we do process that film, but it will be $10 per roll for development only.

I guess for my color film I'm stuck paying the $7-$10 per roll for development. That being said, after the 20 rolls of Kodak Portra I just won on e-bay are gone---I think I'll stick with B&W that I can do myself at home.

I've gotta say, I'm feeling discouraged. I'm sure that once I get my first roll back though, I'll feel a little better.

[Gdad]

Jeff, you had made at least this part of the process very easy. The work that goes into it, I don't mind spending the time on at all---in the long run, hopefully it'll save me some money.

Here is the film I currently have in 120 size:

Fuji Reala
Kodak Portra 400NC
Kodak Portra 400VR
Some Kodak B&W film that you recommended earlier since it could be processed as C-41.
Kodak TMax 400 that I picked up prior to knowing it would take weeks and $$ to develop.

So basically, to summarize---you develop your own true B&W (like the TMax 400) and send all of the rest of your color film out to be developed?

The kind of film I was getting estimates for getting developed was just regular color 120 film. The responses I got were either a) we don't process that film type, b) we don't process that film type, but we can send it out and have it back in 10 business days or c) we do process that film, but it will be $10 per roll for development only.

I guess for my color film I'm stuck paying the $7-$10 per roll for development. That being said, after the 20 rolls of Kodak Portra I just won on e-bay are gone---I think I'll stick with B&W that I can do myself at home.

I've gotta say, I'm feeling discouraged. I'm sure that once I get my first roll back though, I'll feel a little better.

$10 a roll is crazy. I wonder what do those places charge people to develop a roll of 35mm C-41 with no prints or CD? If they know what they are doing it should cost no more to develop 120 just because it's a little more rare that people use it. I would keep searching for a better place- and until you find one just shoot B&W.

[annnewjerz]

$10 a roll is crazy. I wonder what do those places charge people to develop a roll of 35mm C-41 with no prints or CD? If they know what they are doing it should cost no more to develop 120 just because it's a little more rare that people use it. I would keep searching for a better place- and until you find one just shoot B&W.

Yeah to be honest the local camera shop that quoted me the $10 per roll for just development has always been way overpriced compared to another that I had purchased my 18-200 from, but they are the most convenient so I called there first. I also called two Sams Clubs in the area. Needless to say they sounded on the phone exactly how I imaged they would look in person---like they were looking at someone with three heads.

For now I've got two rolls of TMax 400, so I'll shoot with that, take a swing into a local camera shop to peruse their chemicals and see if I'm ready to take the plunge into the home development. :thumbsup2

[boBQuincy]

Oh, it hasn't even *started* to get confusing yet! In his quest to make the dynamic range of a scene fit on the film Ansel Adams worked out a system of matching the exposure with the development to vary the range of the film. We should strive for nothing less! ;)

We have it easy, use the digital camera's histogram to see the dynamic range, then adjust the Holga to suit. Develop the film to match and voila, HDR in the analog world!

Run right out and pick up a copy of "The Negative" to see how all this works. Even if you don't use the ideas the book is still fascinating and who knows, you just might use some of the included formulas to mix up your own developer!

[Gdad]

For now I've got two rolls of TMax 400, so I'll shoot with that, take a swing into a local camera shop to peruse their chemicals and see if I'm ready to take the plunge into the home development. :thumbsup2

It looks like Freestyle will ship chemicals via ground.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464247-Kodak-Indicator-Stop-Bath-16-oz.?cat_id=302

[annnewjerz]

So, I guess I made a little progress. I called three more places today and got the following responses:

- Develop for $7 per roll, takes a week to do it (down the road from my work)
- Develop for $5 per roll, takes only an hour or two (down the road from my work)
- Develop for $3 per roll, takes a week to do it (about 15 minutes from my house, but would have to pay a $3 toll every time I wanted to drop off film, since it's in Pennsylvania---so I'd have to save up a few rolls and do it all at once)

Decisions decisions. I think for now I'll go with the $5 per roll place. I do a decent bit of shopping in there for various bags, cleaning supplies and the occassional lens, so maybe they'll give me a good customer discount. I'm anxious to see how much they charge for 35mm C-41 because if it's a lot less, I'll definitely be asking why 120 is $5 per roll.

[Gdad]

- Develop for $5 per roll, takes only an hour or two (down the road from my work)

So we should be expecting some scans to be posted later tonight then? ;)

[annnewjerz]

So we should be expecting some scans to be posted later tonight then? ;)

Unfortunately, no. :)

I'll be getting the film done after work (as long as they have time), but my scanner isn't going to arrive until Monday. So by the time I get it all set up, we're probably looking like maybe it'll be Wednesday. Maybe.

In all honestly, I think the first roll is going to be so bad I won't even want to post it. Between not understanding how to load it, accidentally taking double-exposures when I didn't mean to and only really shooting stuff in and around my office---all of it combined makes for a snoozefest. :upsidedow

[YesDear]

But Ann, you know a lot of us do snooze really well!

[spinetnglr]

Unfortunately, no. :)

I'll be getting the film done after work (as long as they have time), but my scanner isn't going to arrive until Monday. So by the time I get it all set up, we're probably looking like maybe it'll be Wednesday. Maybe.

In all honestly, I think the first roll is going to be so bad I won't even want to post it. Between not understanding how to load it, accidentally taking double-exposures when I didn't mean to and only really shooting stuff in and around my office---all of it combined makes for a snoozefest. :upsidedow

Sometimes mistakes and accidentally doing things turns out good. You might be surprised when finally get to see the final results ;)

[annnewjerz]

So I was right about my first roll being a snoozefest. I got the film developed today and had a total of 4 pictures that actually came out properly exposed from what I can see with the negatives. Most of the strip of negatives just look blank----probably because I took the pictures inside my office building and they were way underexposed.

Of those 4 pictures, 1 is a stop sign---1 is a no smoking sign on our office door and two are pretty much duplicates of this classic car that was sitting in our parking lot at work. EXCITING STUFF! ;)

No scanner yet, but if the one of the classic car comes out even scans as a recognizable image, I'll be sure to share. :)

On a happier note, when I dropped off my stuff at the camera store today I decided to look into chemicals for developing my own B&W. I bought all of the chemicals I needed and am headed out to Walmart now to pick up the supplies Jeff listed earlier. Hopefully by the end of next week, I'll be looking like a mad scientist in my upstairs bathroom developing my own 120.

Stay tuned, I'm sure there will be some sort of majorly embarassing story that comes along with my first shot at home development. :thumbsup2

[dmccarty]

Its really funny that you guys are going back to film. ;)

I miss my Kodachrome. Waiting for the slides to get back from the lab was like waiting for Christmas! :rotfl: Putting the slides on the light table, getting out my Zeiss lupe and viewing the photos was so much fun. What did I get? What did I get? :lmao:

BUT, looking at my photos on a nice monitor, NOW, without have to wait is soooo much better. :laughing: But I still miss my Kodachromes. I have paper boxes full of Kodachromes waiting to be scanned and printed... One day. :lmao:

I held on to my film cameras way too long. They lost quite a bit of value but I just could not part with them.

Enough of my rememberences. :rotfl2:

If you are developing your own film be careful with disposing of the chemicals if you are on a septic system. The chemicals can case problems in a septic system or so I have heard.

Have fun,
Dan

[annnewjerz]

Alright Jeff, you asked for it. Here is my first scanned photo taken with the Holga. It is absolutely atrocious---but hopefully they get better as time goes on. I've got more question, if you don't mind answering. :goodvibes

http://www.andrealusasphotography.com/photos/636132483_EDM4h-M.jpg

1. Scanning is almost as hard as figuring this whole film thing out. Do you use the guides they give you for medium format film? If so---do you put your negatives between the glass and guide, or the guide and lid? I tried to put them between the glass and lid, but the freakin negatives are rolled, so they kept curling up before I could shut it.

2. Do you cut your own negatives and if so---do you cut them in strips of four?

3. If you do cut your own negatives, what do you use to cut them? Scissors, ruler and exacto knife, one of those paper slicers with the long blade? I used scissors today and naturally, they are crooked.

4. Why oh WHY does this picture look so blue? It's not just because it's shady, because I took a picture of a stop sign in full sunlight and you can't even tell the stop sign is remotely red.

http://www.andrealusasphotography.com/photos/636132469_PMChF-M.jpg

This is the same photo as above, but with the hue just slightly adjusted more towards the yellow side of the slider. The car is supposed to be yellow. It just looks off. Is this the film that I used (FujiReala), just one of those "wonderful" things the Holga does, or did I do something?

5. When you are using the Holga, do you actually adjust the lens to use the person, mountains, etc. for the distance between you and your subject? And in the same vein, do you also use the little aperture adjustment switch that has a cloud and a sun---or do these things make no difference at all?

No more film to scan thankfully. I got three pictures off of that whole roll, all of the others were basically black. Onto the next roll, hopefully I'll make it up to five keepers on this one. ;)

[boBQuincy]

Alright Jeff, you asked for it. Here is my first scanned photo taken with the Holga. It is absolutely atrocious---

Absolutely atrocious?!!! That's a classic Pontiac Grand Prix with the "cat whisker" lights! Absolutely gorgeous!

Other than that, blame it all on the Holga! ;)

[annnewjerz]

Absolutely atrocious?!!! That's a classic Pontiac Grand Prix with the "cat whisker" lights! Absolutely gorgeous!

Other than that, blame it all on the Holga! ;)

Oh believe me, the car is wonderful and looks muuuuuch better in person. One of the attorneys I work with has a collection of old cars---never thought to take pictures of them until I was walking through the parking lot with my dinky little Holga. Everytime I walked past it with my D90, wouldn't you know I didn't give it a second look? Funny how things work out.

[Gdad]

Alright Jeff, you asked for it. Here is my first scanned photo taken with the Holga. It is absolutely atrocious---but hopefully they get better as time goes on. I've got more question, if you don't mind answering. :goodvibes

http://www.andrealusasphotography.com/photos/636132483_EDM4h-M.jpg

1. Scanning is almost as hard as figuring this whole film thing out. Do you use the guides they give you for medium format film? If so---do you put your negatives between the glass and guide, or the guide and lid? I tried to put them between the glass and lid, but the freakin negatives are rolled, so they kept curling up before I could shut it.

2. Do you cut your own negatives and if so---do you cut them in strips of four?

3. If you do cut your own negatives, what do you use to cut them? Scissors, ruler and exacto knife, one of those paper slicers with the long blade? I used scissors today and naturally, they are crooked.

4. Why oh WHY does this picture look so blue? It's not just because it's shady, because I took a picture of a stop sign in full sunlight and you can't even tell the stop sign is remotely red.

http://www.andrealusasphotography.com/photos/636132469_PMChF-M.jpg

This is the same photo as above, but with the hue just slightly adjusted more towards the yellow side of the slider. The car is supposed to be yellow. It just looks off. Is this the film that I used (FujiReala), just one of those "wonderful" things the Holga does, or did I do something?

5. When you are using the Holga, do you actually adjust the lens to use the person, mountains, etc. for the distance between you and your subject? And in the same vein, do you also use the little aperture adjustment switch that has a cloud and a sun---or do these things make no difference at all?

No more film to scan thankfully. I got three pictures off of that whole roll, all of the others were basically black. Onto the next roll, hopefully I'll make it up to five keepers on this one. ;)

I have found scanning to be a little frustrating myself- especially color. Here are some thoughts:

I cut mine into strips of 3 since the way the scanner negative guide is leaving it 4's makes one stick out the side- cutting it in 2's you don't have anything to hold onto. I cut them with scissors and then put in an envelope to flatten out. I use the guide holders that came with the scanner- the negatives clip inside the holder. You have to work to get them 'just-so' so that you can see the border all the way around the frame. (I guess you don't really- I just like to keep a hint of the border in my scan.)

I have my scanner set as follows for Color:

Professional Mode
Film
Color Negative Film
24 Bit Color
Resolution 2400
UN-Select 'Thumbnails'

Once you preview the file then click and drag the window you are scanning around the image so you are just scanning a single negative with a bit of the frame- the scanner usually makes some color and exposure adjustments then. Tweak the color and exposure if necessary- and scan. When you find some settings you like the look of be sure to save the settings.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/3854402036_96c12aa49b_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2543/3853613911_9d6f4ab468_b.jpg

As for the Holga- yes I use the 'Focus' when I remember. :rolleyes1

I also leave the exposure to 'sunny' unless it is evening or inside- then 'cloudy'

Did you take off the white reflective backplate on the scanner lid for these scans? These look better than my first batch- it just takes practice.

[annnewjerz]

I cut them with scissors and then put in an envelope to flatten out. I use the guide holders that came with the scanner- the negatives clip inside the holder. You have to work to get them 'just-so' so that you can see the border all the way around the frame. (I guess you don't really- I just like to keep a hint of the border in my scan.) [/IMG]

I didn't even see negatives clips---guess I wasn't paying much attention. I'll have to look next time I have another roll to scan.

[QUOTE]
Did you take off the white reflective backplate on the scanner lid for these scans? These look better than my first batch- it just takes practice.

I did, it wouldn't scan if I didn't take it off. I kept getting an error message telling me to remove the document mat or close the lid. Well, the lid was closed---so that only left one thing. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it just slid out attached to some plastic and actually started to try to peel it off. :scared1: Yes, I do realize I'm a moron. :rolleyes1 Thankfully I didn't even get one corner of the mat peeled off before realizing something wasn't right. :upsidedow

[annnewjerz]

Jeff, any thoughts on the blue tint to my photos from this roll? Think it's the scanner settings, the film or neither? Yours have nice bright colors---which is what I'm hoping for eventually.

My first roll was Fuji Reala, this next roll is just regular Fuji color film and the roll after that will be Kodak Portra 400VC.

I'd like to buy a roll of whatever you shot those pics with to compare the color in your photos v. the ones I take to see if it's a user problem, a camera problem or a film problem. I really didn't like the blue tint and since it wasn't in RAW, I had no white balance adjustor to fix it with (reminds me of why I love digital so much)

[Gdad]

I didn't even see negatives clips---guess I wasn't paying much attention. I'll have to look next time I have another roll to scan.

I did, it wouldn't scan if I didn't take it off. I kept getting an error message telling me to remove the document mat or close the lid. Well, the lid was closed---so that only left one thing. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it just slid out attached to some plastic and actually started to try to peel it off. :scared1: Yes, I do realize I'm a moron. :rolleyes1 Thankfully I didn't even get one corner of the mat peeled off before realizing something wasn't right. :upsidedow

The brackets that hold the film each have a little plastic door that opens- put the film inside and snap it shut.

Jeff, any thoughts on the blue tint to my photos from this roll? Think it's the scanner settings, the film or neither? Yours have nice bright colors---which is what I'm hoping for eventually.

My first roll was Fuji Reala, this next roll is just regular Fuji color film and the roll after that will be Kodak Portra 400VC.

I'd like to buy a roll of whatever you shot those pics with to compare the color in your photos v. the ones I take to see if it's a user problem, a camera problem or a film problem. I really didn't like the blue tint and since it wasn't in RAW, I had no white balance adjustor to fix it with (reminds me of why I love digital so much)

Who knows- I was getting very strange colors at first. Even when I was using the V300 before I upgraded- I would get good colors on 1/2 and then strange colors on the 2nd 1/2. :confused3 Now I get something I think looks good- until I do the next one and it looks really good- and makes the other one look not so good. It just takes some practice to get it right- mine are getting a little more consistent now. Keep in mind also with color films- they all have a WB- some are good for daylight- others are geared for indoors- etc. that can be part of it also.

[annnewjerz]

Who knows- I was getting very strange colors at first. Even when I was using the V300 before I upgraded- I would get good colors on 1/2 and then strange colors on the 2nd 1/2. :confused3 Now I get something I think looks good- until I do the next one and it looks really good- and makes the other one look not so good. It just takes some practice to get it right- mine are getting a little more consistent now. Keep in mind also with color films- they all have a WB- some are good for daylight- others are geared for indoors- etc. that can be part of it also.

Just the fact that you weren't (and still aren't sometimes) getting colors you expected is enough reassurance for me. I have about 6 different types of film, one or two rolls each since I wanted to figure out what I liked so I'm sure one of those rolls will be satisfactory.

When I took my film in for developing, the man at the camera store ask what I was shooting medium format film with. I told him and Holga and he pulled a face and told me to just wait a few months and before I knew it, he'd have me shooting with a "real" medium format camera.

I knew I liked online shopping for a reason. Less face to face with people trying to convince me to buy everything under the sun. :rolleyes1

[Gdad]

I can hardly argue- I already picked up a Super Ricohflex TLR (http://www.flickr.com/photos/capturelifeinaction/3848830708/) and I keep looking at those Hasselblad 500's on Ebay- one day I'll find a bargain on one.

[annnewjerz]

I can hardly argue- I already picked up a Super Ricohflex TLR (http://www.flickr.com/photos/capturelifeinaction/3848830708/) and I keep looking at those Hasselblad 500's on Ebay- one day I'll find a bargain on one.

Saw that picture on your FlickR last night. Very cool, I'm sure you will work wonders with it.

[seashoreCM]

Flatbed scanners with film/slide scanning capability require that you remove the white (sometimes black) liner from the lid for film and slide scanning.

The scanner might work without removing the liner but the menu selections like contrast and brightness would be vastly different compared with scanning documents.

Also, many flatbed film/slide scanners do not handle overexposed and underexposed film well. For example a dark slide may yield black and gray but not white and pastel colors no matter how you adjust the contrast. (A washed out slide may yield gray and white but not black or deep colors.)

You must not cut negative strips of four or fewer, otherwise commercial photofinishers may refuse to do reprints for you.

[annnewjerz]

I got a few more rolls of film developed today and I've got to say I was very pleased to have more than 1 picture per roll that came out. I'm still getting used to the scanning (it seems like parts of my picture get cut off no matter what) but with the settings that Jeff noted above, the shots I scanned came out much better tonight.

Jeff---if you are reading this, do you use the 12 or 16 film mask? I have been using the 12, but I'm wondering if that is why part of my shots keeps getting cut off when I scan, maybe I need to shoot with the 16 on.

Here are a couple I liked enough to upload after scanning.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3418/3901548391_aa67fb2022.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/3902395730_6dfbbb5d99.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3498/3901618873_287520a2d3.jpg

It's shots like this one that make me think I need to pay more attention to switching the focus to the correct distance whenever possible. Either too close to the bottle or I need to learn to put my subject directly in the center of the shot.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2511/3902393730_153c164ac9.jpg

[Gdad]

Looks good Ann. I love the tones in the first one- what film?

I have only used the 12 exposure mask since I like the square format. With the 16 you get 4 more shots per roll but narrow- like a 4x5 format or something- not sure. Are the exposures on your negatives square or rectangle? If it's your scanner clipping the images are you using the scanning brackets? I can just fit two exposures inside the 120 film bracket with a tiny bit of the edge of the exposure showing all around- they have to be set in there just right. Then after you 'preview' drag the box around the whole negative you want to scan. Be sure the 'thumbnail' box is unchecked or it will limit what it will scan.

[annnewjerz]

Looks good Ann. I love the tones in the first one- what film?

I like that one too. All of my digitals that I convert to black & white, there seems to be something missing---they all come out dull. With the film, they look just as scanned above without adjustment. Definite :thumbsup2 for shooting film for black & white images rather than digital.

For those black & white shots, I used the film you recommended earlier in this thread----Kodak BW400CN that could be C-41 processed. I have all of my checmicals for home development of the TMax film, just need to buy the reel and stuff from B&H.


Are the exposures on your negatives square or rectangle? If it's your scanner clipping the images are you using the scanning brackets? I can just fit two exposures inside the 120 film bracket with a tiny bit of the edge of the exposure showing all around- they have to be set in there just right. Then after you 'preview' drag the box around the whole negative you want to scan. Be sure the 'thumbnail' box is unchecked or it will limit what it will scan.

They are square since I've been using the 12 exposure mask---and parts keep getting cut off in the scan. However that being said, I think I just realized my problem. I do have thumbnails enabled. I'll try unclicking "thumbnails" and scanning the next set with two shots per scan and hopefully that'll clear things up.

[boBQuincy]

You are really getting good with this!
The name still brings back images of Belushi and the frat boys chanting "Hol-ga, Hol-ga...".
My style might be to drink two or three mojitos before taking photos of one. ;)

[annnewjerz]

My style might be to drink two or three mojitos before taking photos of one. ;)

I don't drink---so I had to do something to pass the time while everyone else was getting bombed. :drinking1 ;)