How Do You Usually Focus?

[MarkBarbieri]

How do you usually focus with your camera?

[YEKCIM]

If you mean, AF vs MF, I use AF, exclusively (lazy and eyesight not what it used to be...). Why do you ask?

~YEKCIM

[MarkBarbieri]

This was going to be a poll, but I botched it. I'll just make it a discussion instead.

I'm curious as to how people focus. I'm sure that a majority of just use their shutter button to trigger autofocus. Who still focuses manually? When do you focus manually?

I don't often focus manually, but I do in a few circumstances. Sometimes when I'm particularly concerned about maximizing DOF, I'll focus manually so that I can get the focus plane in the best location.

I've also occasionally used manual focus when I'm trying to get a picture of a moving object when it reaches a particular place. I focus on that spot manually and shoot when the subject is there. I did that a lot more with my old because it's autofocus was much slower than my current camera.

Who uses a focus button rather than their shutter button? By default, I think every AF camera is set up to focus when the shutter is pressed down half way. Many cameras (well, DSLRS, I'm not sure about P&S) allow you to change that behavior and move the focus to a separate button on the camera. You press one button to focus and another to take the shot.

I had seen that you could do this several years ago, but it always sounded unnatural to me. A friend convince me to switch a while ago and after a couple of shoots, I'll never go back.

[gruZ]

Mark,

Good question - I'm interested in the responses. I use AF most of the time - only with the * button (CF 4 I think on the 20D) on back of the camera. I too thought this sounded odd at first, but really like the ability to pick my focus spot and not worry about it in certain situations (batter hitting a ball is a great example). I won't go back to the "one button does it all" method.

I also used to use only the center focal point, and in most occasions still do, but am branching out as well with the other focal points my camera has.

MF is still used from time to time, to adjust what the AF has done (with USM type of lenses), or completely MF in low light situations where shooting at a distance.

Thanks,

Scott

[MarkBarbieri]

Why do you ask?

Partly to learn and partly to teach. I'd like to learn about what other situations people find manual focus to be useful.

There was a discussion on manual metering a while ago. I was a confirmed AV priority shooter before that. Between that discussion and a presentation I attended by a sports photographer, I learned that there are several situations I commonly encounter in which manual metering is quite useful. Now I meter manually for about 10% of my shooting.

I thought the same thing might happen with a discussion on focus tools and techniques. Perhaps I'll learn more situations in which manual focus would be better.

I am also hoping to open up other people's eyes to the advantages of occasionally using MF and to the benefits of using rear-button focus. i imagine that many people here have either never heard of rear-button focusing or, like I used to be, they've heard of it and dismissed it without understanding it.

Besides, it's a better topic than market share and who's brand is better. ;)

[Steve's Girl]

Very intersting! Thanks for bringing this up. Gives me more stuff to ponder.

[MarkBarbieri]

I also used to use only the center focal point, and in most occasions still do, but am branching out as well with the other focal points my camera has.

I usually let it pick the AF point. When shooting portrait shots, I often switch to the right-most AF point because, when I rotate the camera, it's in the upper part of the frame near the subject's eyes.

[GrumpyOne]

95% of the time I do standard AF. 3-4% of the time I'll AF to a different spot then move to the target I really want. I have only needed to MF about 1% of the time. Most of the time that I do MF it's because I'm trying to focus on something too transluscent or small for the camera to AF on and the camera gets lost. UW photography has a lot of special situations not often found in the air.

[DVC Jen]

Who uses a focus button rather than their shutter button? By default, I think every AF camera is set up to focus when the shutter is pressed down half way. Many cameras (well, DSLRS, I'm not sure about P&S) allow you to change that behavior and move the focus to a separate button on the camera. You press one button to focus and another to take the shot.

I had seen that you could do this several years ago, but it always sounded unnatural to me. A friend convince me to switch a while ago and after a couple of shoots, I'll never go back.


I have done this too. I prefer it to using the shutter button to focus as well.

Confuses the heck out of people though if I ask them to take a pic with my camera for me however.

[Lizziejane]

I have done this too. I prefer it to using the shutter button to focus as well.


Jen, are you able to do that on your XTi?

I very rarely use manual focus - as someone else mentioned, my eyes ain't what they used to be - but I did use MF at the zoo while trying to get pictures through the mesh or bars. It worked very well.

[KrazyPete]

So what exactly is the benefit of putting the focus button somewhere other than the shutter release? Is it just a matter of preference?

[gruZ]

I usually let it pick the AF point. When shooting portrait shots, I often switch to the right-most AF point because, when I rotate the camera, it's in the upper part of the frame near the subject's eyes.

I did this at first as well, but it was too unpredictable for my tastes. I would rather manually move the FP, or use the center and focus / recompose (assuming DOF is not too shallow for this). The 20D has fewer focal points than the 1 series, and I believe the center focal point is the only "crosshair" type of FP - the most accurate. Again, I believe the 1 series has more of these sensitive focal points.

[gruZ]

So what exactly is the benefit of putting the focus button somewhere other than the shutter release? Is it just a matter of preference?

The benefit is allowing one button to handle the focus (back of camera, the * button on Canon), and another button to handle the metering (typical shutter release button).

Why would you want to do this?

As I mentioned above, in sports shooting, where you know the action is going to be - like a baseball batter hitting the ball - you can pre-focus using the * button, and then trigger the shutter when you need to. If you are in shutter priority, this means that the camera will meter for whatever lighting conditions are present at the time the bat hits the ball. It also means there isn't any chance the camera will try to re-focus on something you didn't intend it to - and therefore miss the shot.

Another situation is when you want to compensate for different lighting conditions. A family in front of the castle (since this is WDW board). Press the shutter down when pointing the camera at the sky in order to not blow out the sky / castle - the camera will meter for the background. Then recompose on the family with the shutter button half down, press the * button to focus on the family, and push the shutter button the rest of the way down.

It sounds confusing, but after using this method for a while, I won't go back.

Also, if someone wants to take a picture using my camera, with the XXD series, when you move the dial to any of the auto modes (green square,etc. which I always do when someone wants to try my camera), the shutter button becomes a one-stop shop, do everything button again - there's no need to mess around with the custom functions and reset.

[MarkBarbieri]

I believe the center focal point is the only "crosshair" type of FP - the most accurate.

It's probably worth a brief description of how cameras autofocus so that people can better understand what a crosshair type AF point is.

The autofocus on cameras (at least the ones I'm familiar with) adjust the focus of the lens and try to maximize contrast. If you have a spot in the picture that is white adjacent to black, there is a lot of contrast between those two spots. The better your focus, the quicker the image transitions from black to white. If you are out of focus, the dividing line blurs into a range of grey tones. The camera fiddles with the focus until it can get the sharpest transition from light to dark or dark to light.

If you try to focus on a part of the picture with very little contrast (such as a clear blue sky), the focus won't work because their isn't enough contrast. The same thing can happen if there isn't enough light. The AF sensor might not be able to see in the dark well enough to see the contrast.

Most AF sensors are looking for the two colors to be side-by-side. If you have a pattern with a dark section directly above a light section, it might still be unable to focus because it is trying to compare the right side of the AF point with the left side. A "crosshair" AF point looks for both left/right AND up/down constrast.

Most AF points are not crosshair. The number that are varies from camera model to camera model from 0 to well over a dozen. Typically, more expensive cameras will have more AF points and more crosshair AF points than their less expensive siblings.

If you think about my description of AF, you can also see why wide aperture lenses tend to focus better than low aperture lenses. With a wide aperture lens, the sensor has two advantages. First, it has more light to work with. Second, the depth-of-field (how much of the picture is in focus) is shallower, so the increase in contrast is more abrupt. This is true regardless of what aperture you are shooting at because modern lenses stay wide open until you actually take the picture, so the focus is being done at the widest aperture.

If you find that you are having trouble focusing, it often helps to work with the way your AF sensor sees the world. Put the AF point right on top of something with a vertical line separating a light and dark part of your subject.

A flash can also help you focus. In low light situations, sometimes the camera uses the flash to help it see better for focusing purposes. You may have also noticed that some flash units project a weird red pattern of lines when you try to focus in low light. Those lines are their to put something contrasty on the subject so that it can focus on that contrast.

[MarkBarbieri]

Another useful focusing trick when using long lenses is a focus range limiter. Some lenses have a switch that restricts the focus range of the lens. It prevents the lens from focusing on anything close to you. At first that seems goofy; why would I want to limit the focus range? The answer becomes obvious when you are trying to track something moving (like a bird inflight) and you let it wonder off of your AF focus area. Without the limiter, the lens will search through its entire focus range trying to regain focus. That wastes valuable time. By restricting the range, it won't take as long for it to find the correct focus again.

This is another good situation for using a focus button rather than shutter focus. When you lose track of the bird, immediately take your finger off the button and when you get the bird back on track, start focusing again. You could do the same with the shutter button, but it's hard to operate as quickly when you have to worry about not pressing the button too hard and triggering a shot.

[MarkBarbieri]

Another good use is when you shoot with a tripod and a remote shutter release. When I'm shooting landscapes, I often find myself using a combination of AF and manual focus. I use AF to focus on the point that I'd like and then recompose. In the past, I used to switch the camera back to MF at this point so that the remote release wouldn't refocus. Now it happens naturally.

I find it really hard to give a convincing explanation of why I prefer using the rear focus button rather than the shutter. After doing it for a couple of shoots, it just started to seem more natural and I found myself taking advantage of the ability to instantly switch from AF to manul focus and back. All I can say is try it for a while. I've found few people that do it and want to shoot back, and none of them was a regular shooter.

[MICKEY88]

Another situation is when you want to compensate for different lighting conditions. A family in front of the castle (since this is WDW board). Press the shutter down when pointing the camera at the sky in order to not blow out the sky / castle - the camera will meter for the background. Then recompose on the family with the shutter button half down, press the * button to focus on the family, and push the shutter button the rest of the way down.

.

in this situation, wouldn't it be easier to meter, press the AEL button, then recompose and shoot ?

plus if your sky is so bright that it will blow out, by metering for the sky, you would then underexpose the family which is your main subject, unless you use flash...

[gruZ]

Another focusing trick:

As Mark described above some flashes will emit a pattern of red, barely visible light to help focus in low or no light situations. If you don't have (or can't use) this type of flash to help focus in low / no light, try this trick:

Buy an inexpensive laser pointer. Point it at what you intend to shoot, and focus on the red dot. Works great!

[MICKEY88]

You could do the same with the shutter button, but it's hard to operate as quickly when you have to worry about not pressing the button too hard and triggering a shot.

with enough practice focusing without triggering the shutter becomes quite natural...another option is setting the camera on focus priority, so it will not take a pic until it's in focus..

[MICKEY88]

Another focusing trick:

As Mark described above some flashes will emit a pattern of red, barely visible light to help focus in low or no light situations. If you don't have (or can't use) this type of flash to help focus in low / no light, try this trick:

Buy an inexpensive laser pointer. Point it at what you intend to shoot, and focus on the red dot. Works great!

just don't use this techinique when shooting people or airplanes...:thumbsup2

[KrazyPete]

You guys have got me digging through PDFs of my camera manuals at work. Not cool! :eek:

[MarkBarbieri]

Jen, are you able to do that on your XTi?

It's Custom Function #4, setting 3 (or 1 if you also want it to do AE lock). I'm pretty sure that's true of all Canon DSLRs.

As for it's usefulness, here is what Canon says:

C.Fn 4-1 (or, 4-3), where the rear (*) button is used to activate the focusing system, is almost universally accepted by professional photographers as the best way to shoot sports. …

C.Fn 4-1 (or, 4-3), where the rear (*) button is used to activate the focusing system, is almost universally accepted by professional photographers as the best way to shoot sports. …

There are several advantages to working this way.
The photographer can capture focus on the subject well in advance of shooting the image without worrying about pre-metering or accidentally firing a shot.
The camera can stay in focus on a single subject for longer periods of time (e.g., waiting for a batter to swing) and when ready, the photographer can shoot with better camera responsiveness.
While pressing the AE Lock button in this mode, you have AI Servo tracking focus. Let go of the button and you are now locked at that distance (as if you were in One-Shot). And with Canon EF lenses that have Full-Time Manual focusing, including all USM lenses with distance scales, you now have manual focus… all three focusing options available without having to take your eye from the finder.

It's kind of like being able to switch between manual, AF one-shot mode, and AF continuous mode instantly.

I did use MF at the zoo while trying to get pictures through the mesh or bars
That's a good point. I often use manual when shooting through screens or dirty windows. I also use it when trying to shoot subjects partially obscured by brush or other items that confuse the AF. Sometimes that can be handled by switching AF points and sometimes it can't.

[DVC Jen]

Jen, are you able to do that on your XTi?

I very rarely use manual focus - as someone else mentioned, my eyes ain't what they used to be - but I did use MF at the zoo while trying to get pictures through the mesh or bars. It worked very well.

Like Mark said - yes I can. ;) The XTi is the camera I started using it on. When I got the 30D I had forgotten that I had manually set the focus to a different button and it totally threw me off to focus with the shutter. I changed it on the 30D very quickly.

[DueyDooDah]

I have been using only the default modes for AF. Although I have finally "mastered" af/recompose/shoot, I am going to attempt your method. I like the idea of having a separate button to focus and another to meter and shoot. I never MF, as my eyes need replacing.

[photo_chick]

Mostly manual focus here. Of course lately since I notice my eye are going down hill I have been using the AF more and more so in a year or so I suspect my answer would be different.

[MICKEY88]

Mostly manual focus here. Of course lately since I notice my eye are going down hill I have been using the AF more and more so in a year or so I suspect my answer would be different.

must be nice to be young enough to have that option..

[MarkBarbieri]

I can still see the distance stuff, but my the near stuff is fading fast. I was just using a magnifying glass trying to read the "instructions" for a CPU heatsink.

[cryssi]

I usually let it pick the AF point. When shooting portrait shots, I often switch to the right-most AF point because, when I rotate the camera, it's in the upper part of the frame near the subject's eyes.


I use the AF. I am wondering, however, about this above. I find that when I shoot 2 people, they are blurry b/c the AF is focusing on a point between and behind the couple. Now if you move the AF point to focus on one person, is the other out of focus? I suppose I could just try it, but, you know, that takes effort...

[gruZ]

I use the AF. I am wondering, however, about this above. I find that when I shoot 2 people, they are blurry b/c the AF is focusing on a point between and behind the couple. Now if you move the AF point to focus on one person, is the other out of focus? I suppose I could just try it, but, you know, that takes effort...

It depends on what setting you are using (or your camera is choosing) for the aperture. "Smaller" numbers (such as f/1.8 or f/2.8) actually mean a larger opening in the lens to let the light through. This also means a shallower depth of field (DOF), and more than likely most things in front of or behind the focal point will be out of focus. "Larger" numbers (such as f/10 or f/11) mean a smaller opening, and a greater depth of field. Things in front of and behind the focal point will be in focus.

So, the answer to your question is if you are using the appropriate aperture setting, both subjects will be in focus.

Distance to the subject also comes into play - the less distance to the subject means a smaller depth of field all other things being equal.

Take a look at this site (http://dofmaster.com/dofjs.html)for a more technical explanation.

[cryssi]

It depends on what setting you are using (or your camera is choosing) for the aperture. "Smaller" numbers (such as f/1.8 or f/2.8) actually mean a larger opening in the lens to let the light through. This also means a shallower depth of field (DOF), and more than likely most things in front of or behind the focal point will be out of focus. "Larger" numbers (such as f/10 or f/11) mean a smaller opening, and a greater depth of field. Things in front of and behind the focal point will be in focus.

So, the answer to your question is if you are using the appropriate aperture setting, both subjects will be in focus.

Distance to the subject also comes into play - the less distance to the subject means a smaller depth of field all other things being equal.

Take a look at this site (http://dofmaster.com/dofjs.html)for a more technical explanation.


thanks for the link, I've bookmarked it for future reference! I had a sneaking suspicion it was user error...

[handicap18]

I use AF probably 98% of the time. I will use MF with my macro lens. The Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro is very simple to switch to MF and has a very large focus ring so it is easy to use.

As for the auto focus points, I switch them all the time. My D50 has 5 different points to focus on. Many times I'll use it in conjuction with the focus lock depending on the subject and the composition I want.

The back focus button I believe is a Canon thing, because I haven't heard about that on a Nikon. I know the D50 doesn't have it. I can switch the AF/AE lock button to work both or just one or the other. I have always kept it set to lock both. If I need a different exposure than what I want when I use the lock button, I'll switch to M and set the exposure myself

For the question re: taking a pic of 2 people and getting the focus off. I"ll usually focus on one person's eye's by switching the auto focus point. Sometimes I may have to lock the focus and recompose to get a better shot. If their faces are pretty much the same distance away from you then they'll both be in focus, but to be sure just use an f/stop that is 5.6 or smaller, probably better off with f/8 or f/11. Fill flash can always be used if necessary.

[MarkBarbieri]

The back focus button I believe is a Canon thing, because I haven't heard about that on a Nikon.

No, it was a Nikon shooter that first told me about it. I'm not sure about S/P/O.

[tinksdad]

My D200 does have the AF button as well as the AEL button on the back of the camera. I've used the AF back button underwater as the housing shutter release isn't as sensitive as my finger on the shutter without the housing.

It also employs a three tiered focus control; Single servo for that focus priority and will beep when focus has been achieved and locked. I use this most often. It also has a Continuous Servo for moving objects that continuously changes the focus to the subject and really never locks, but even a tiny change will cause the camera to refocus. There is also a Manual servo for manual. If I'm shooting macro shots then it's manual all the way. My older macro lens is kind of slow and the manual give me the option of where I want the focus which for those kind of shots I think is a better option.

I typically use the Single Area Autofocus, and Dynamic Area Autofocus. The camera also has a Group Area Autofocus but I haven't seen the need for that with what I shoot so far since I can control some of that through DoF.

[Groucho]

I manual focus when using manual focus lenses. Easy choice. :)

I do MF on some of my AF lenses occasionally. Motorsports are an obvious time. Fireworks are another.

I really wish my old screw-mount 400mm was AF - that thing takes forever to manual focus and it's tough getting the focus just right, even with the camera acknowledging focus.

I would MF a lot more if a had a proper split-prism or other MF-friendly viewfinder on my DSLR. I'd mount one in an instant but I'm concerned about exposure problems, which seem to be a common issue when adding such a thing to a DSLR.

[photo_chick]

must be nice to be young enough to have that option..

:lmao:

I used to be, as I keep looking at my images and the soft focus and I wonder when did I get old. If you saw my gray hair you would not think me so young.

[photo_chick]

Oh, and for the record the Rebel XT can also do the custom function with the * button as the focus. So could my old 35mm Rebel G.

[Groucho]

If we're going "for the record" my little $367-with-kit-lens *ist DL can do this as well, you can set the OK button to either focus normally or spot focus when in MF mode, or cancel AF if you're already in AF mode. I suspect most any DSLR can do this?

OK, back to the "when do you focus" discussion, already in progress. :) I've never tried setting it up this way, I think I'd probably prefer the half-shutter press.

[Gdad]

I usually use manual focus for anything macro- its usually easier for me to just shift 1/4 inch or so to or from the subject to get the dof exactly where I want it. Nothing irritates me more than my lens hunting focus all the way to infiniti while my subject is crawling/hopping/flying away.

[KrazyPete]

I'd like to give the back button focus method a shot but it looks like I have to give up my AE/AF lock button. by default, it locks both the focus and the exposure. I have 11 different options I can assign to that button and one of them is AF-ON.

AF-ON initiates autofocus and takes that functionality away from the shutter release button. It won't hurt anything to try it out but I was wondering what your opinions were. is AF-ON a better use for that button?

Thanks

[Shifletjl]

Just subscribing so I can find this later. Very informative. Thanks everyone!

[jann1033]

sorry i am so dumb but the * button on canon is the focus lock button? so are you talking that button? guess i need to look at my manual again;) don't know why but i thought that was exposure lock but maybe i am misremembering it.

and to who ever asked about the group of people...i know on the rebel xt the last setting on the dial ( sorry camera is in car so don't remember the letters) the one past "manual" is for a line of people or things so they are all in focus.

usually i manual focus on macro after i autofocus. other than that i have old eyes as well that are doing good to see the camera so manual focus would probably look like a total blur

[jann1033]

I'd like to give the back button focus method a shot but it looks like I have to give up my AE/AF lock button. by default, it locks both the focus and the exposure. I have 11 different options I can assign to that button and one of them is AF-ON.

AF-ON initiates autofocus and takes that functionality away from the shutter release button. It won't hurt anything to try it out but I was wondering what your opinions were. is AF-ON a better use for that button?

Thanks

ok is yours a rebel? maybe i'm not crazy if it is:rotfl2:

[KrazyPete]

ok is yours a rebel? maybe i'm not crazy if it is:rotfl2:

Mine is a D80. I cannot confirm or deny your sanity. ;)

[photo_chick]

sorry i am so dumb but the * button on canon is the focus lock button? so are you talking that button? guess i need to look at my manual again;) don't know why but i thought that was exposure lock but maybe i am misremembering it.




Not by default. You have to set it that way in the custom functions.

[Lizziejane]

well, my head is spinning nicely now, thank you all!!

Seriously, I need to clarify this. In a few weeks, I'm attending a dressage competition. If I use the * button, I can pre-pick my favorite spot in the ring, expose and focus on the first horse in that spot, set the AF, then just wait for the others to trot on into the frame? I won't have to worry about focusing anymore? Or does the AF only work if the subject remains in the frame but is likely to move around a bit (like a batter swinging for the ball)? 'cause if so, isn't that what AI servo is for?

[photo_chick]

well, my head is spinning nicely now, thank you all!!

Seriously, I need to clarify this. In a few weeks, I'm attending a dressage competition. If I use the * button, I can pre-pick my favorite spot in the ring, expose and focus on the first horse in that spot, set the AF, then just wait for the others to trot on into the frame? I won't have to worry about focusing anymore? Or does the AF only work if the subject remains in the frame but is likely to move around a bit (like a batter swinging for the ball)? 'cause if so, isn't that what AI servo is for?

IF you set it to single shot focus you can do like you said. But if the next horse is not in the exact same spot and if you move at all the horse will likely end up out of focus. Probably only slightly out of focus, likely still acceptably sharp for most people. But still the focus point will probably not be on the exact spot you want for the following horses. Unless there is some lighting changes in the venue the exposure you need should remain pretty much the same.

That said, getting ready for the shot will make taking the shot a lot easier. If you are all set up like you said getting the following horses should be easy with only very minor adjustments needed to the focus.

[Groucho]

usually i manual focus on macro after i autofocus. other than that i have old eyes as well that are doing good to see the camera so manual focus would probably look like a total blur
:rotfl2: :rotfl2:

You slay me. :laughing:

[Groucho]

I guess I'm still not really seeing the advantage, unless you don't feel comfortable doing the half-press without accidentally tripping the shutter or something?

If you're interesting in holding focus at one point, isn't it easier to focus with the half-press and flip the switch to manual focus for that time, rather than have to press a button on the back every time you want the camera to AF for you?

Maybe if you do more manual-focus shooting than AF, allowing you to use the focus button in the same way that you'd use an auto-exposure button in Manual mode?

[MarkBarbieri]

The focus button thing is sort of a speed and flexibility thing. You can use your AF/MF switch and your One Shot/AI Servo (or whatever the focus lock vs continuous focus is called for you camera). The beauty of the focus lock button is that you can get the advantage of those much faster.

I find it most important in situations where I need to switch between focus lock and continuous focus quickly. Let me give a couple of examples from earlier this weekend.

Example 1: I was taking a shot of a kid throwing in the ball at my son's soccer game. I wanted him on the left side of the frame throwing the ball in towards the right side. Because he was likely to be outside the focus area, I aimed at him, focus, released the button to lock focus, recomposed and shot. Right after that shot, I aimed at the kid who was now running after the ball and pushed the focus button back in. I was immediately in continuous focus mode again. If I hadn't used the focus button, I would have needed to be in focus lock mode (or MF) to get the first shot. I would then have had to switch to continuous shot mode track the action.

Example 2: Erik (youngest son), is running around the backyard firing a water sprayer at people. I'm always in continous focus mode now, but in the past I would be anyway because I don't want to get a focus lock on a moving subject. At one point, the stops, aims at his aunt, and fires. Once he stops, I released the focus button, zoomed out, recomposed with him on the left of the frame and his aunt on the right. If I'd been using the shutter button for focusing, the focus would shift to the gap between them and I'd have missed the shot. With the focus button separated from the shutter release, I was free to lock the focus without shifting into focus lock mode and take the shot with the composition I wanted.

The best analogy I can come up with is the DVR (Tivo). When you first describe it to someone, it sounds like something you could do with your VCR. Sure, it makes programming it a little easier, but isn't it just the same thing? Once you use a DVR, you quickly discover that it makes timeshifting so easy that you do much more of it and it is much more natural. With the focus button, you find yourself naturally switching between tracking and locking focus. Once you've done it for a while, it seems completely natural and having the camera arbitrarily deciding to refocus right when you decide to shoot seems odd.

[MarkBarbieri]

So when you shoot action sports, do you ever use IS? If so, in what way? I always used to turn it off, but with this soccer season, I've been using it and really liking it.

I've found myself leaving IS turned on in Mode 2, which is the panning mode. I'm usually shooting at shutter speeds where the IS is probably of very little (if any) benefit. What I find handy is that it stabilizes the viewfinder. At longer ranges, this really helps me see what I'm shooting better.

I use Mode 2 instead of Mode 1 because I'm afraid Mode 1 would mess things up. With Mode 1, the stabilizer always tries to stabilize the image. If you intentionally move, it fights the motion anyway, which can lead to a degraded image. With Mode 2, it continually checks to see whether their is significant movement along either the horizontal or vertical axis. If there is, it shuts down stabilization along that axis. If there is movement along both (panning diagonally), it shuts down the stabilizer entirely.

So with Mode 2, which was designed for panning, I basically get IS when I'm stopped (or panning) but don't suffer from it while moving. I suppose that their might be transition effects (where it starts to stabilize and then quits just as I'm shooting), but I haven't noticed them yet. Anyone else tried this and seen any problems?

[Groucho]

I'm still a little fuzzy. It sounds like you're using it as a way to quickly switch between one-time autofocus, continuous autofocus, and manual focus? I can see that benefit, though I'm still not sure that I'd want to hit the button on the back every darn time I want the camera to focus.

I'm trying to picture your interface. I wasn't sure what your camera had so I poked quickly through a review and I'm confused. I see a focus button on top to switch between the two focus modes, but I don't see an on-camera button/switch to go between autofocus and manual focus - is this only on the lens or am I just missing it in the review?

Now, what if you had one physical switch to go between MF and the two autofocus modes? (Or do you already and I didn't see it in the review?) This is what's on what will probably be my next camera, and that seems like it'd be a help (rather than two separate switches/buttons), flipping to MF will effectively lock focus... though even there, I could see an advantage of a button to lock focus, but still not a button to actually tell it to focus. :confused3 I'm wondering if I'm still missing some key fact or something?

As for Tivos, I certainly can see the reference. I was in the same boat, now I couldn't live with my Tivo, even though it does make you into a SLAVE to the stupid television - "gotta watch this show before I run out of space!" (even with a 120g hard drive)..... even authoring DVDs off it still makes TV watching almost a chore. I realized the other day that we're almost 20 episodes of Mythbusters behind... so we started putting 'em on in the bedroom at night. Life's too short for all the things that need to be done; photos processed, books read, movies watched, TV shows watched, music listened to, places visited, hobbies attempted, etc... I could use a few more lifetimes to get a little bit closer to everything that I want to do!

(Yet, I've spent a few hours here catching up with Disboards - umm, I guess I'd probably get more done if I tossed my computers out the window. :) )

[photo_chick]

As for Tivos, I certainly can see the reference. I was in the same boat, now I couldn't live with my Tivo, even though it does make you into a SLAVE to the stupid television - "gotta watch this show before I run out of space!" (even with a 120g hard drive)..... even authoring DVDs off it still makes TV watching almost a chore.


:rotfl:

Hey, mine is full of the entire season of Viva Pinata and about 20 episodes of Pokemon. I don't even watch those shows but a certain almost 7 year old learned how to work the box! I got my DVR about 7 years ago before Tivo was everywhere. I can't live without it the thing. I never watch anything when it is actually on anymore.

Now back to your regularly scheduled discusion.

[MarkBarbieri]

I'm still a little fuzzy. It sounds like you're using it as a way to quickly switch between one-time autofocus, continuous autofocus, and manual focus? I can see that benefit, though I'm still not sure that I'd want to hit the button on the back every darn time I want the camera to focus.

That's basically it. Pressing the button to focus quickly becomes second nature.

I'm trying to picture your interface. I wasn't sure what your camera had so I poked quickly through a review and I'm confused. I see a focus button on top to switch between the two focus modes, but I don't see an on-camera button/switch to go between autofocus and manual focus - is this only on the lens or am I just missing it in the review?

There is a button with a * near both shutter release buttons. A custom function determines what this button and the shutter release buttons do. By default, this is AE lock. You can reprogram it to any combination of AE lock and auto-focus. If you set it to AF, you semi-permanently switch the focus mode of the camera from "One Shot" to "AI Servo" so that the camera never decides to lock focus; only you do that.

Every AF Canon EOS lens has an AF/MF switch. That switch is on the lens rather than the body. Once again, if you are using the AF button, you just leave the lens on AF mode because you can MF any time you want. I suppose that you might still need to switch to MF for lenses that don't allow you to manually focus while in AF mode.

mine is full of the entire season of Viva Pinata

We just got VP a few weeks ago. My son is a level 56 gardener now. It's taken over our house. We've been recording and downloading the shows where we can, but they aren't on TV very often here and the ones that are on have commercials. I hate having to skip through commercials.

[gruZ]

Groucho, the * button the back is literally right next to where your right thumb is naturally located (and on the 1 series larger bodies as well as batter grips, they put an additional * button on the bottom right of the camera, so when you are using in portrait mode the * button is still next to your right thumb).

There's no hunting around the back of the body for this button, it feels very natural and becomes second nature after you've used for a bit.

[photo_chick]

We just got VP a few weeks ago. My son is a level 56 gardener now. It's taken over our house. We've been recording and downloading the shows where we can, but they aren't on TV very often here and the ones that are on have commercials. I hate having to skip through commercials.


:offtopic:
MY DD is quite obsessed with Viva Pinata. She is having a Viva Pinata birthday at the local water playground next month. It sucked me in for a few weeks at first too, but romancing pinatas only stays entertainign for so long!

Now on topic... I find the * button to be very natural to use. Like the PP said, it is right near your thumb. I like it better than using the shutter button for the AF, but I think it realyl is a personal preference thing. I would not go as far as to say it is better than using the shutter button or anything.

[Groucho]

I'm not trying to infer that the button is poorly placed or anything.

I guess it's a "use it to understand it" thing. I think I understand how it works, but I'm still not sure that it's something that I'd want - maybe a "lock AF" button but probably not for it to be the primary focus control. Seems like fixing something that's not broken? Maybe I'll give it a shot one of these days; who knows, maybe I'll be convinced.

As for Tivo, one other side-effect is that we never see commercials any more, so I'm completely out of touch with what ads are out there. Combine that with the Adblock extension for Firefox so that I don't see any web ads, and it means that I'm almost completely unreachable by Madison Ave. :woohoo:

[MarkBarbieri]

Anyone using a split prism focus screen? I've thought about playing with one for my camera, but I never have bothered.

[KrazyPete]

My dad's camera had that. I kind of liked it. It seemed very precise for manual focusing. How difficult is it to modify a DSLR to add that feature?

[Groucho]

I think that for most DSLR, it's easy to change focusing screens. Katz Eye (http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/) makes them for several DSLRs, and there are one or two eBay guys who take old focusing screens and cut them down for use on a DSLR.

The concern is exposure... there's information on their page specific for each application on how it affects the camera. They seem to be pretty honest about it all. It's probably something that you can adjust on a per-lens basis fairly easily, just dial in some negative compensation.

Metering modes that weigh heavily on the center (like center-weighted, spot, etc) will be affected more, and aperture also affects it.

If there were no penalties, I would have to have one... at it is, I may get one for my next camera. Going between my DSLR and my K1000, I really, really miss the microprism focusing screen of the film camera, since I do like to do manual focus.

[MarkBarbieri]

With my camera (Canon 1D Mark II), it's as easy as unlatching a little tray, sliding out the old screen and sliding in the new one.

How difficult is it to modify a DSLR to add that feature?

Metering modes that weigh heavily on the center (like center-weighted, spot, etc) will be affected more, and aperture also affects it.

Oddly, Canon recommends that you use center-weighted and avoid center-spot and evaluative. I can't explain why. In theory, I could switch to another spot and meter off of that, but I'm not sure that I could get used to that.

From what I've heard, the metering difference, aside from spot metering with narrow aperture lenses, is pretty minor. I've heard about being 1/3 stop being the typical variance. Maybe I'll pony up the $30 and try it.

[Lachesis00]

I am bumping up old posts... been kinda busy the past month LOL

I shoot auto 80% of the time. I have BAD eyes. 20% I will shoot manual. Especially if I am shooting macro.