Disney Photography Tips [Archive] - The DIS Discussion Forums

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:25 AM

Shooting Kids on Rides

Set up your camera so that you get a relatively high shutter speed because you won't be able to hold it steady. This may mean increasing the ISO or opening the aperture wider (lower f-stop number).

Zoom out pretty wide since you will probably have trouble aiming it. You can always crop it down later, but you can't add in something that you missed.

Take a bunch of shots and hope that one of them works.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117450581-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:26 AM

Shoot Your People

Don't get so hung up on shooting the beautiful sites and shows. Make sure that you take plenty of shots of your kids, spouses, friends, etc. Don't just take those shots where everyone is posed in front of the castle either; get shots of people watching shows, riding rides, etc.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117525199-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:27 AM

Set the Scene

Take scene setting shots. These shots tell people what the following pictures will be about. For example, here is a shot that tells you that the following shots will be about Fantasmic. You can use this technique on signs for rides and shows. You can also take distance shots of buildings and pavilions. You want your pictures to tell a story about your trip, so make sure that you have some that help set the scene.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117525058-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:28 AM

Everyone makes mistakes, throw them away

One of my pet peeves is someone showing me their vacation photos without them culling the junk first. Everyone takes bad pictures. Throw them away. Why is that so hard for some people? About 5% of my shots made it into my slideshows. I only kept about 25% of my shots.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:28 AM

Fill the Frame

This was the tip most often repeated to me by the experienced photographers I knew when I started. It means that you should try to fill your entire picture with interesting stuff. All to often people leave large sections of the picture filled with uninteresting or even distracting things.

A classic mistake comes when taking a picture of another person. Your instinct is to look right through the middle of the lens straight into their eyes. That would be great if people's eyes were in the middle of their bodies, but they aren't. So what usually results is an interesting bottom half for the picture and a bunch of wasted space above the person. Instead of putting their eyes in the middle, aim lower so that you fill the picture frame with your subject.

Here's the wrong way:
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/118269406-M.jpg

Here is the picture cropped so that it "fills the frame":
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117479494-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:29 AM

MOmousefan

04-08-2007, 09:39 AM

This is just the help I need so thanks Mark. One tip I like is to use a tripod whenever possible. They are a pain to haul around, but really help.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a146/mtsanders/PoP%20Century%20Resort/yoyo.jpg

POP Century at night

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:42 AM

Check Your Histogram

Most digital cameras have a little chart called a histogram. The histogram shows you how many pixels you have at different brightness levels. The values on the left edge of the histogram are pixels that are black. The values on the right edge of the histogram are pixels that are white. Your goal is to get an exposure in which all of the pixels fall somewhere in the middle.

This is a good histogram because it doesn't touch either the right or left edge.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142008191-M.jpg

This histrogram shows that the picture is overexposed. You see part of the histogram piled up on the right edge. That means that some parts of the picture got too much light and are now just blank white.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142008188-M.jpg

This histogram shows that the picture is underexposed. You see part of the histogram piled up on the left edge. That means that some parts of the picture got too little light and are now just featureless black.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142008190-M.jpg

Sometimes the range from dark to light in your picture is too big and you can't get everything between the edges. In those cases, it is usually better to keep from hitting the right edge. Dark shadows don't usually hurt a picture as much as bright, white patches.

You cannot avoid bright, white patches in some cases, like bright reflections or having the sun in the picture. In those cases, you have to decide whether you can recompose your picture to avoid the bright spots or whether you are better off just leaving them.

GrumpyOne

04-08-2007, 09:49 AM

This is a more artistic rule.

Pretend your picture is a tic-tac-toe board, it has lines running through it that have divided the picture into nine squares. You'll notice that the picture is also divided into two sets of thirds. One set left to right, the other set top to bottom.

Try to place interesting things along these lines. Going back to what Mark said about faces, if you have a face filling a frame, the eyes will be about the top third and the mouth about the bottom third.

When shooting a scene, a road could be along the bottom third with tree-tops at the top third.

This doesn't mean you shouldn't have something interesting in the middle of the frame, just that it's generally more artistic that if the only thing in the picture is what's in the middle of the frame, you may way to try moving the subject to one side or the other. Or higher or lower.

In general, try not to let the same part of the scene encompass more than 1/3 of the frame.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:52 AM

The Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds helps you make an interesting composition. People have a natural tendency to stick the subject of interest right smack in the middle of the picture. This generally results in a boring picture.

The rule of thirds says that you should divide your picture in to three sections across and three sections up and down. Put the interesting parts of the picture along the lines that divide the sections. The four places where the lines touch are the best places to put interesting parts of the picture.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142009619-M.jpg

photo_chick

04-08-2007, 09:56 AM

Don't obsess over getting the perfect shot. If you do you likely will never be happy with what you shoot. Try to get that great shot when you want to, but if you just can't get it don't stress over it. Just move on. You are on vacation after all!

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 09:59 AM

Don't Split Your Picture With the Horizon

When you have a strong horizon line in your picture, don't stick it right in the middle of the picture. That leaves the viewer confused as to whether the picture is about the stuff below or above the horizon. If you push the horizon line down the botton third line, it says that this is a picture about stuff above the horizon. If you push the horizon up to the top third of the picture, it says that this is a picture about the stuff below the horizon.

Feel free to go to extremes. If you are taking a shot of a really cool sky, put the horizon down near the very bottom of the picture to really emphasize the sky. If you are taking a picture of a cliff and want to make it feel really tall, have it reach almost to the top of the picture.

Here's an example of getting the horizon wrong. Is this a picture about water or China?
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117480347-M.jpg

This picture is definitely about Mexico. It's not a very good picture, but at least you know what it's about.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117480880-M.jpg

photo_chick

04-08-2007, 10:01 AM

The rule of thirds is a general design rule and does not just apply to photography! Think about it when you scrap those images too. Also remember as with all design rules, there is a time it is ok to break it.

GrumpyOne

04-08-2007, 10:04 AM

Going along with taking a few more, if you use aperture priority, shutter priority or full manual modes, take a couple of pictures at settings around the one that you just took. What looked perfectly fine in aperture priority at f/5.6 may look stunning at 5.0.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:05 AM

Use open space as part of your story

When you put your subject to one side in a picture, you've created an open space on the other side. You should usually have your subject looking or moving towards the open space. That tells a story to your viewer about what is going to happen. If your subject is heading towards the short side of the frame, the story is that they are leaving.

In the example below, the motorcycle is on the right and is heading into the open space on the left.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117525021-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:10 AM

Use your flash on sunny days

Most people think that their flash is just for night pictures. It can also be very useful for filling shadows on sunny days. This is called "fill-in flash."

Often when we take a picture when the sun is bright and overhead, we get dark shadows under people's eyes and hats. Shadows from one person in the picture may obscure another person. Sometimes our subject is in the shade and the background is in the sun. All of these things make for lousy pictures.

When you think you might have a problem with shadows or dark areas in a picture, try taking a shot with your flash to help fill in those areas.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117449676-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:13 AM

Your Flash Can't Go Forever

I always get a chuckle when someone takes a shot of Cinderella's Castle at night with a flash. That little flash on your camera isn't going to light up that big building from 200 feet away. If you aren't shooting something relatively nearby, don't waste your batteries; shut off your flash.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:13 AM

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples on shooting fireworks.

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples showing long exposures to capture motion at night.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:15 AM

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:18 AM

Frame Your Subject

You can sometimes make a nice picture by using elements in the scene to create a "frame" around your subject. It could be trees on either side of them, the walls of a tunnel, or just about anything that works as a frame.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117450475-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:19 AM

Request - a good example of second curtain sync.

Request - a good example of positioning people and your subject to complement each other rather than to just be near each other. Extreme8 gave a good example in the last thread.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:34 AM

Festival of the Lion King Shooting Tips

It's pretty dark and there is a lot of action. That makes for a difficult subject. Don't get discourage if you try your best and you don't get many (or any) good shots. Low light action photography is hard and it's one area where expensive cameras and lenses give a shooter a huge advantage.

First, set up your camera to get the best possible shots in the lowest light. For basic cameras, that means using some type of night shot mode. For fancier cameras, that means setting the ISO to the highest ISO that you are comfortable with (some cameras have ISO settings that are so noisy you don't want to use them). It also means opening the aperture as wide as possible.

Motion is your enemy. That means motion in your camera and motion in your subject. To help with your camera, turn on your image stabilizer if you have one. Use a monopod if you have one. Practice holding your camera really still when you take shots.

Subject motion is tough. This is a high energy show. I've never seen a really sharp picture of a monkey doing acrobatics. Your best option here is to shoot people that aren't moving much.

Here's a shot where the leads were standing in place getting each section to give their call.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117413400-M.jpg

There is one part of this show where motion actually makes for a good picture. Anytime you have a bright light source moving against a dark background, you can get some interesting motion effects from a relatively long exposure. The longer exposure gives the light source time to move around the picture. In the FotLK, the flame dude is good subject for this technique.

This is a 1/4 second exposure. Even with the image stabilizer, I didn't do a very good job of keeping the camera steady. A tripod would really have helped. Still, the subject is the trail of fire, which doesn't really need to be sharp, so the picture is OK anyway.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117413489-M.jpg

Because the fire is so bright, it's not really possible to get a good exposure for both the flames and the fire dude. With no disrepect for the fire dude, I think the flames make for a more interesting picture, so try to expose for them rather than the guy.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117413509-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 10:43 AM

Pan to Show Motion

When taking pictures of things that are moving quickly, you have two options. You can use a high shutter speed, which freezes the motion, or you can use a low shutter speed and pan with the potion.

The first approach makes it easy to get a nice sharp shot of the subject. The problem is that creates a bizarre and unnatural looking photo. In the picture below, we know that the care is flying quickly through the air, but it just sort of seems frozen there. I don't think it makes for a very compelling story.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117524994-M.jpg

When you pan, you set the shutter speed to something relatively low (1/30 of a second will do) and you track the subject with your camera while you are taking the picture. When you do it well, your subject stays sharp and the background has a motion blur. This gives the viewer a sense of speed.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117524988-M.jpg

If you want to really make things look fast, you can use a very long shutter speed and track much further. Some image stabilizers have a special mode that helps with panning. In other cases, your image stabilizer might actually try to "correct" the panning motion and make things worse. Try pacticing on cars at home to see what works best for you.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117524988-M.jpg

I can't pan to save my life, so I cheat. I take the shot with a high shutter speed to freeze the action. Then I cut out my subject in photoshop and apply motion blur to the background. Then I paste subject back down on the picture. When shooting cars, I also apply radial blur to the wheels so that they look like they are spinning. It would be a lot easier to shoot it right in the first place, but that never seems to work for me.

You can use the same trick for relatively slow subjects to make them look fast as well.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/11988816-M.jpg

Dan Murphy

04-08-2007, 11:03 AM

Great tips, Mark, and to those who have added. :thumbsup2 Bookmarking this one to refer to over time.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 01:48 PM

Good Photography Is a Bunch of Crop

It's pretty common to get home and see that your shot wasn't framed perfectly. That's when the crop tool (my favorite) comes into play. Use it to chop out elements that you don't want. Use it to shift your subject up, down, left, or right. Sometimes you can even make two different interesting photos from one original just by cropping it differently.

These are the same pictures, but in the bottom one, I cropped out all of the boring parts.
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142055462-M.jpg

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117525191-M.jpg

When you crop, it is usually a good idea to use the same aspect ratio. That's a guideline, not a rule; sometimes using a different aspect ratio works better. Just be judicious, going through a collection of photos each with its own aspect ratio can be visually confusing.

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 02:01 PM

Quick Panoramas

Shooting really good panoramic shots often invovles special hardware and/or stiching toghether multiple pictures. An easier way is just to crop out the top and bottom of the picture. This technique doesn't let you get wider shots than your camera can normally take, but it does work well for subjects when you want to stress how long or how tall they are.

On our last trip, we rented a towncar to take us home from the airport. It wasn't any more expensive than parking at the airport and it was a lot less hassle. The towncar company was so busy on the day we got back, all they had left to pick us up with was a limo.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142058724-M.jpg

The kid's loved it. To stress the "stretch" of the limo, I thought the shot worked better cropped like a panorama.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/142058653-M.jpg

Another place this works really well is at the World Showcase Lagoon. Ever stood on the shore and taken a wide shot trying to get in as many countries as possible? You probably also got a whole of sky or water. Unless you were lucky and had an interesting sky or a calm, reflective water, those were probably large parts of your photo with no visual interest. Crop them out so you have an interesting panorama instead.

photo_chick

04-08-2007, 02:05 PM

Talking about posing, and composition--- threes work. In design three really is the magic number. It provides a sense of symmetry and balance when there really is none. Everyone in a straight line is boring. But if you group in threes it can become more interesting. I don't have any images to show of it, anyone got any group shots where you can show the triangles in people placement? The only ones I can point to are other peoples work, and given recent topics I won't do that! :)

MarkBarbieri

04-08-2007, 02:17 PM

Here's a quick example of using "three", in this case faces.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117449268-M.jpg

A related rule is that you should try to compose with triangles. I the photo above, there is an obvious triangle bordered by the bottom of the picture and my wife's arms.

photo_chick

04-08-2007, 02:28 PM

Is this the kind of thing you are looking for with motion at night?

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w232/the_real_photo_chick/20060729-14.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w232/the_real_photo_chick/20060701-firewritingsm.jpg

Both shots I used a tripod and bracketed to get what I wanted. The first with the Christmas lights is a scan of a 35mm slide. The second is digital, shot with the Rebel XT set at ISO 100.

wannabatwdw

04-08-2007, 03:11 PM

:teacher: Thanks Mark for starting this thread. I am such a newbie. I am copying the hints and how to carry them out onto index cards to carry in my camera bag!

photo_chick

04-08-2007, 03:41 PM

I think there is something to be said for capturing the emotion on a ride. Sometimes it is really hard to get a technically perfect shot of a kid on a moving ride. This one the sweet spot is not right on my DD and some find that annoying. But this is still a great shot to me because it captures my DD's joy on this ride. Remember these are your memories and just because they are not technically perfect does not make them any less of a great shot. OF course I think every shot of my kids is a great one!

BTW... It took me three rounds on this roller coaster to get this one, with her in the light where I wanted it. I got lucky with her expression.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w232/the_real_photo_chick/20061231-katie1.jpg

this one it was getting dark, but they were too far away for a flash. I still like it because of their expressions.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w232/the_real_photo_chick/katieandconnorsmall.jpg

Lizziejane

04-09-2007, 11:03 AM

Take a Few Extras

Nothing annoys me more than spending 5 minutes getting a shot set up and then finding out when I get home that someone blinked during the picture. Aargh! Have you ever tried painting open eyes on a blinker in Photoshop? Not fun.

I recently read a tip that when shooting a group, have everyone close their eyes for five seconds, then tell them when to open (presumably, you've got everything else set up). I haven't tried it yet, so don't know if it actually works!!

Pea-n-Me

04-09-2007, 11:49 AM

Oops, I didn't see this thread until just now and I started a thread about composition which I see you've covered a lot of. :blush:

I'm still in learning mode but what I'd like to add to this thread is one thing I like to do: take shots from behind. They, too, can be very special.

Here, my DS is watching his dad parasail (he's up in the air.)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/paulandlinda/DisPhotos.jpg

And my children, in pj's, enjoying their first sunrise (the morning after their 6th birthday) on our first Disney cruise.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/paulandlinda/DisPhotos012.jpg

This one's a little blurry, but my DD (in sparkly black) is doing the Chicken Dance with Daisy Duck.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/paulandlinda/Feb2006Cruise449.jpg

mabas9395

04-09-2007, 12:12 PM

Wrap That Rascal

There are places at Disney where there is a good risk of getting wet (like Splash Mountain). Rather than leave your camera in your travel bag, bring along a plastic bag from the grocery store. Take all the shots you want until just before splashdown, then shove the camera in the plastic bag to protect it from splashes.

You can still take all the shots you want during splashdown. This may be the winner for my most overly posted shot here on the DIS, but I just put my Rebel XT and 28-135 in a 1 gallon ziploc bag with the lens sticking out the opening. Then closed it best I could with a UV/protective filter and lens hood on for added protection. This GIF was made from about 20 shots I made using high burst mode going down splash mountain with my two boys in front of me. May be risky, but I'm glad I did it.

http://farstead.smugmug.com/photos/95985737-M.gif

Jeninpa

04-09-2007, 12:36 PM

Okay, I am by far not an expert,lol. I do however have a good 10yrs experience in. I have 4 kids and have had digital camera's for 7yrs. I take 100 pics on an ordinary day and have taken 2000 on a 7 day cruise. Here are my tips I like to give people:

The subject does not always have to be looking at the camera and your picture doesn't even need to have their face in the pic:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/headingforthecruise.jpg

I love close-ups of little ones hands and feet. You'll look back and think OMG they were so little,lol:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/P1090472.jpg

Sometimes I just randomly snap close-ups when there is nothing even exciting going on and end up with some pretty neat memories:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/P1100250-1.jpg

This one isn't from anything Disney but, sometimes I like to try taking pics when the kids aren't always just standing there,lol. I also have a habit of filling the frame:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/P1150443-3.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/8-6-06Jessicasbirthday107-3.jpg

Different angles make your photo's more interesting. You don't always have to take pics of everything eye-level:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/P1090475.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/P1100748-2.jpg

Shadows look neat in sepia photo's:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JeninPA/beachantique05.jpg

I hope these are helpful tips people can use and not stupid,lol. I also have a cheap Panasonic Lumix LZ2 camera,lmao.

photo_chick

04-09-2007, 01:50 PM

Jeninpa--- thanks for showing that it is possible to capture great images with a point and shoot.

wdwpluto

04-11-2007, 06:39 AM

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples showing long exposures to capture motion at night.

My biggest tip for long exposures? Tripod, tripod, tripod! I prefer to shoot in aperature priority (just in general) and I bracket a few stops up and a few stops down to vary the amount of motion.

Osbourne Lights 2006

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/334996980_276d28571d.jpg
EXIF: 1.3 sec @ f/4.5 ISO 200, tripod, no flash

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/334997008_23a71d6c19.jpg
EXIF: 0.2 sec @ f/4.5 ISO 200, tripod, no flash

Tripod, or in this case, trash can, allows for a long-ish exposure to capture the lights, but gives motion blur to moving subjects

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/181/402035447_4692b94ae9.jpg
EXIF: 0.167 sec @ f/4 ISO 1600 tripod, no flash

Request - a good example of second curtain sync.

Second curtain synch is fun at Pleasure Island or inside clubs like Jellyrolls. By setting the flash to second curtain, it ensures that the flash trails are behind the subject instead of in front of them, while freezing the motion of the main subject.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/151/402034297_c4146b55d7.jpg
EXIF: 2 sec @ f/4.5 ISO 400, handheld, second curtain synch flash
Bonus game: name the Dis-ers in this shot! ;)

PhotobearSam

04-11-2007, 09:27 AM

Don't Just Stand there!

Once you take a picture of something, don't just stand there. Move around it, get at least 2 different angles and at least one close up...Challenge yourself to see thigs differently.

We had an exercise at school to do. We had to take a picture of a refridgerator. Well, most people took a few pics of the outside and even from different angles and one or 2 opened the door and took a pic of the inside.

ME, I opened the door, laid onthe floor and shot up at it, did close ups of the egg cups, the handle, the screws holding the door and the back where the tubes are...Outcome: I got an A and the next person only got a B-

You have to take the safe shot and them take a few more not so safe ones...

From one trip...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Photobearsam/disney/IMG_0081.jpg

Next trip...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Photobearsam/disney/WDW%20with%20Rob%20and%20Vikki/IMG_9608.jpg

I love that no matter how many times you have been to Disney, you can still take different pics and even old things can be new again.

:idea:

spoon2003

04-11-2007, 11:35 AM

Mark,
Thanks for starting this thread and all who contributed! Just in time for our cruise and land next week!!

Sue

MarkBarbieri

04-11-2007, 01:16 PM

Don't Forget Real Life

Some people are so obsessed with their new digital camera or camcorder that they use it constantly on their trips. Remember to actually live your life on vacation rather than transform yourself into some sort of traveling photo/video director. If your memory of Spectro-Magic has a little plastic frame around it and exposure information at the bottom, you may have spent too much time recording your vacation and not enough time vacationing.

The same goes for posed photos. If you force everyone to stop what they are doing and form up for a group shot once or twice a day, you’re probably having a good time. On the other hand, if you do that once or twice an hour, you’ll end up with well posed shots of angry kids.

Make sure that you let strangers enjoy their vacation as well. It’s terribly annoying to idle in one spot while someone has an entire walkway blocked off for a picture that takes them 5 minutes to get right. If you must block a crowd to get your shot, be quick about it.

MarkBarbieri

04-11-2007, 01:21 PM

Patterns Can Be Fun

Where it is the seemingly endless repetition of triangles on Spaceship earth, or the repetition of stroller after stroller, patterns can make for good photographic subjects. It’s best if you completely fill your picture with the pattern. That gives the sense to the viewer that the pattern will keep repeating for ever.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117479412-M.jpg

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117480809-M.jpg

deletedpenguin

04-11-2007, 01:26 PM

jann1033

04-11-2007, 02:00 PM

some how i duplicated this

jann1033

04-11-2007, 02:03 PM

Great tips.

Should I even bother thinking about bringing a tripod/monopod to DL? Since the last time I went to DL, I purchased a Canon 30D DSLR and multiple lenses and don't know if it would even be worth bringing the tripod for night shots/etc., for one night out of the trip.

could look at it the other way, it's your only chance to get those night shots and a tripod might be more insurance ( i'd take it in other words)

this drives me absolutely crazy..and then they shoot you the evil eye when you don't realize they still haven't taken the dumb thing and walk in front of them:headache:" Make sure that you let strangers enjoy their vacation as well. It’s terribly annoying to idle in one spot while someone has an entire walkway blocked off for a picture that takes them 5 minutes to get right. If you must block a crowd to get your shot, be quick about it"

good tips, last trip been to long ago for me to think of any

deletedpenguin

04-11-2007, 02:14 PM

I suppose I could bring it just in case. I'll be there multiple days, so I could always try without it by bracing against objects/placing the camera on a wall etc. and then see if I should bother. I could always go get it for the evening one night as well...

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 01:31 PM

Shoot 'em Right Between the Eyes

To add to PhotobearSam's comment about moving around and trying different perspectives, don't always shoot down at your kids. Most good photos of kids are taken when you get down on their level. Get eye to eye with them, see things from their perspective, and then shoot them.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117481113-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 01:35 PM

Let the Light Shine Through

Most of the time, it is best to shoot with the sun behind you or off to one side. One exception to that is when you shoot translucent objects. They often look better with light coming through them.

Here is a stained glass window with light reflecting from it:
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117480157-M.jpg

Here is the same window with light shining through it:
http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117480184-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 09:51 PM

Flash and More

Ever take a flash picture and have your subject come out OK but have everything behind them really, really dark? There are several ways to deal with that problem. First, increasing your ISO, opening your aperture wider, and slowing your shutter speed all help. Those changes will allow your camera to "see" more of the background. Your camera will probably lower the amount of flash to compensate.

Another trick that some cameras support is a mode that fires the flash but leaves the shutter open for a while longer. On a Canon, you make this happen by using the flash with the camera in AV mode. That allows the stuff in the front of the picture to be lit up by the flash while the stuff behind your subject is still exposed normally. Because the shutter is open for a long time, you should ask your subject to stay very still, even after the flash fires. You should also use a tripod or something else to hold your camera still.

Here are a couple of old examples from my film days:

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/143292697-M.jpg

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/143294461-M.jpg

And one from last year in a cave:

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/143294696-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 09:54 PM

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 10:00 PM

Shoot Your Trip

Everyone gets the standard shots of the Castle, the Tree, etc. Those are good to have, but it's just as important to shoot the things that mean something special to you. Take time to shoot the little things that make your trip special.

I always like to take a shot of the pastries that we buy in France. Those are a highlight of our day at Epcot. Is it a great picture? Not really. That doesn't matter. It means something to me and that's what is important.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/3157143-M.jpg

PhotobearSam

04-12-2007, 10:02 PM

Mark, I do that. I have a collection of DH in every crazy hat we can get our hands on. The cool thing is that he is the one initiating it and he does not like to pose. He is getting better at it though.

You are really good BTW.

And

Congratulations on 1000 posts.

i just hit 4000 this week and all I can say is I LOVE THE DIS!!!

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 10:05 PM

Show Some Speed

Today's cameras can take pictures in less than 1/1000th of a second. That will freeze just about anything at the parks, regardless of how fast it is. That may not always be the best way to shoot a picture.

If the story you want your picture to tell is about speed, use a longer shutter speed. That gives the object in your picture a chance move a bit during the exposure.

Here are two pictures of Everest. The first was taken at 1/125th of a second. The second was taken at 1/13th of a second. The second gives a much better sense of the speed of the coaster.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117413061-M.jpg

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117413065-M.jpg

MarkBarbieri

04-12-2007, 10:09 PM

I have a collection of DH in every crazy hat we can get our hands on.

That leads to another tip

You Don't Have to Buy It to Shoot It

If you find a cool hat, a neat toy, or something else interesting at a shop, there is no rule that says that you have to buy it to shoot it. Put it on, take the shot, and put it back.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/117481195-M.jpg

Geoff_M

04-12-2007, 10:55 PM

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples on shooting fireworks.

I'll give 'er a shot...
1) Turn the flash off. If you're using a point-n-shoot, figure out how to set it to "no flash".
2) Use auto exposure. If you get really good at it, you can try to use manual exposure, but 85% of the time Auto works great with the flash off.
3) Hold the camera as still as possible by holding it against a stationary object or drag along a tripod.
4) Hit the shutter release as the shell is about to explode.

Here are some examples: Using the above tips... They were taken during the same Illuminations show standing on the bridge between the UK and France. I braced the camera against the bridge railing. No tripod needed!

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_021sm.jpg

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_022sm.jpg

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_032sm.jpg

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_039sm.jpg

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_043sm.jpg

sthnbell19

04-12-2007, 10:55 PM

These tips are great!!!

Geoff_M

04-12-2007, 11:03 PM

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples showing long exposures to capture motion at night.I'll combine this with the tips about use of rear (2nd) curtain flash sync.

1) Hold the camera still... or not. Below you'll see examples of holding the camera still against a light post (Epcot sidewalk lights) and deliberate shaking (monorail photo) the camera. It depends what "look" you are looking for.

2) Set the camera to Auto exposure again.

3) If using rear curtain sync, set the camera to that flash mode and set the flash compensation to -1 stops (so you totally won't blow out your subjects with light.)

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June018_098sm.jpg

http://www.abbycandlesmi.com/June06_051sm.jpg

Geoff_M

04-12-2007, 11:19 PM

Tripods... You don't need no stinking tripods!!!

I know lots of people like to drag along tripods into the parks with them. I also know that a lot of them can be rather small and lightweight. But... Pssst! Here's a secret. I love taking low light, long exposure photos at WDW (some lasting 5-10 seconds), but I've never used a tripod!!! I don't need one!

So what's my secret? Be creative! WDW is loaded with things you can use to stabilize your camera. The list includes:

1) Fence/bridge railings
2) Light posts
3) Tops of trash cans (they're flat).
4) The ground
5) Buildings
6) Etc.

If you need to tilt the camera a bit so it's not quite parallel to what you're using for stabilization, place something under the lens of the camera to prop it up. For a 7 second fireworks shop (shown above in this thread) I actually wedged two fingers under the lens to bump the barrel skyward a bit. You can also use a child's bean bag under the camera and align things more to your liking!

Geoff_M

04-12-2007, 11:33 PM

Fun with condensation!!!

If you've been to WDW in the summer, you know what I'm talking about! You leave your nice cool hotel room and 5 minutes later get your camera out of the bag/case/fanny pack/etc. and "Presto!" the front of the lens fogs up, as does the viewfinder... and the surface of the camera "sweats" moisture. You can't take a picture for a couple of minutes until all of the fog disappears. If you wipe it off of the lens, more just takes its place.

This is due to the "cold" camera hitting the hot humid Florida air. Until your camera's temperature is close to the ambient air temp outside, that suckers gonna fog up. In some cases the condensation can cause electrical problems with equipment (I had a camera once that would refused to turn on for a while if it developed severe condensation). Here's a simple way to avoid this...

1) Before you leave your room, place the camera in a ziplock bag.
2) Place it in the camera bag or other carrying case, but leave the zipper cracked so air can get inside it easier. This will prevent the case from acting like an insulated cooler. With the case cracked for air, any condensation that develops as the camera warms up will form on the outside of the ziplock bag.
3) When you pull the camera out for the first time, make sure the camera doesn't feel "cold" in the ziplock bag. If it does, let it warm up inside the ziplock for a couple of minutes before you pop the seal.
4) Once the camera is no longer chilled, you can pull it out without fear of it fogging up.

brack

04-13-2007, 12:06 AM

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples on shooting fireworks.

Request - I'd like to see some good tips with examples showing long exposures to capture motion at night.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b144/brackjr/IMG_2355.jpg

Obviously I used a tripod but this one was a mini version I placed on a trash can.

I also took about 20 different shots at various speeds and aperture settings.

brack

04-13-2007, 12:16 AM

I know that when you go to WDW you're on a free and easy type vacation but plan some of your shots before hand. I go with a planned theme for some of my pictures.

This is one of my planned panoramas:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b144/brackjr/POFQAnnette.jpg

brack

04-13-2007, 12:20 AM

I have over 10,000 photos taken at WDW and sometimes run out of things to do with them.

Try some of the software out there to manipulate them and give them new life.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b144/brackjr/AnnetteandTinkerbell.jpg

YEKCIM

04-13-2007, 06:08 AM

A couple that have worked well for me:

1. Use long focal length and/or wide aperture to isolate the subject (out-of-focus background)

2. Vary ISO setting, as required, for changing lighting conditions.

~YEKCIM

woody64

04-13-2007, 09:57 AM

Someone asked for night long exposure shots. Here are my 2 examples from Disneyland. The first shot I actually thought the ferris wheel moving would hurt the look of the shot but I definately think it improved it and made the "rays" of the "sun" look better.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b267/bgidlow/California/IMG_7328DCnight2.jpg

This second shot you will notice the water wheel has no spokes.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b267/bgidlow/California/IMG_7312Grizshack.jpg

With both shots I also took many versions with many different settings.

Castillo Mom

04-15-2007, 08:51 PM

This is a great thread, especially for a newbie like me. Just bought my Rebel XTi two weeks ago. Bumping to see if anyone else has more tips.

deletedpenguin

04-15-2007, 10:10 PM

wood64, those are great shots. My biggest delimma about my upcoming trip to DLand is which bag to use/bring. I have a smaller Lowepro Slingshot and a Tamrac Adventurer 9, which is bigger, but has room for stuff, other than camera equipment.

donaldduck1967

04-16-2007, 06:37 AM

Shoot the Your Trip

Everyone gets the standard shots of the Castle, the Tree, etc. Those are good to have, but it's just as important to shoot the things that mean something special to you. Take time to shoot the little things that make your trip special.

I always like to take a shot of the pastries that we buy in France. Those are a highlight of our day at Epcot. Is it a great picture? Not really. That doesn't matter. It means something to me and that's what is important.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/3157143-M.jpg

Actually I think that is a great shot. Thanks for all the tips. Keep them coming.

Granite State Heidi

04-16-2007, 01:23 PM

This is a great thread. I have a new Canon S3 IS, and I really appreciate all of these tips!

jaycat

06-04-2007, 10:28 PM

One Tip for shooting fireworks is to shoot before the shell goes off, because of shutter lag time if you shoot right after the shell goes off you may miss the shot completely. I also have the best luck shooting in ISO mode for fireworks, but that of course dependes on the camera and the person operating the camera, and weither you are using a prop (tripod, trashcan, wall, etc...).
These two shot was taken at DL in ISO mode without the use of a tripod, or a trash can. They look better than this as prints for some odd reason.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/catsmuffins/ResizeWizard-2ImgCAs.jpg
The little green thing in the pictures is Tinkerbell.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m163/catsmuffins/ResizeWizard-1CasIMG.jpg

coreyjune12

08-09-2007, 06:40 PM

To take a picture of fast moving objects you can trick your camera into focusing before it needs to. You can achieve this by pressing the button down on the camera to take a picture halfway, wait for the object to come by and press it the rest of the way.

meliahz

08-09-2007, 10:36 PM

Subscribing :) I recently got a Canon S3 IS and I LOVE taking pictures!!! I'm loving all the helpful tips on this thread :thumbsup2

zipuzee

10-11-2007, 04:55 PM

Great tips! Thanks for putting this together. I'll definitely be printing these out and taking them witn me!

Check Your Histogram
Most digital cameras have a little chart called a histogram. The histogram shows you how many pixels you have at different brightness levels. The values on the left edge of the histogram are pixels that are black. The values on the right edge of the histogram are pixels that are white. Your goal is to get an exposure in which all of the pixels fall somewhere in the middle.

And thanks for explaining this. I was having trouble figuring this out from the instruction book that came with my camera!!

Renysmom

10-12-2007, 09:22 PM

Thanks to everyone for sharing these tips, keep them coming.

I have copied several to my index cards which I print out and carry in my camera case for a quick lesson when I am out and about.

decomouse

10-15-2007, 10:43 AM

miss missy

10-16-2007, 05:06 AM

subbing... cool thread!

DBL101

10-21-2007, 06:28 AM

A lot of great tips. We're about to pick up DL passes again and I plan on spending some nights at the park trying out some of these firework tips.

great

12-11-2007, 09:45 AM

I have over 10,000 photos taken at WDW and sometimes run out of things to do with them.

Try some of the software out there to manipulate them and give them new life.

Nice one....I love it.....it's so lovely. I want one too. I've never seen a photo like this one until now.

MarkBarbieri

01-09-2008, 06:56 AM

I just found out this thread got mentioned on the 12/18 Disboards podcast. That's pretty cool.

william4192

01-13-2008, 12:52 AM

Subbing!

bubba

01-13-2008, 02:06 PM

Thanks for getting this thread started Mark ! I'm a relative newbie and can't wait until our next trip to WDW to try out some of these tips !

OU1247

01-13-2008, 05:54 PM

I have always be a camera/picture taker freak.

For Christmas I just got a new Cannon EOS Rebel xti.

I am working with the man. setting.

How big or how many flash cards should I bring for a 8 day trip and trust me...I take tons of pictures.

OU1247

01-13-2008, 05:57 PM

Also my tip. Don't always shoot on eye level.

Look up at a person or an object, or down on it.
It gives a whole different look to a picture.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y102/OU1247/icestorm/Icestorm2007082.jpg

Here's one I took from our recent and nasty icestorm

mom2disprincesses

02-11-2008, 12:06 PM

just want to say love all the tips i will be studying them diligently for our trip to wdw in dec! keep 'em comin'!

MassJester

02-11-2008, 09:54 PM

Mckymousefn

02-25-2008, 08:50 PM

Thanks for all the tips.. helps us newbies out! :wave2:

Groucho

02-27-2008, 10:19 PM

I have a question in search of a tip -- forgive me if this isn't the place.

I'll be looking to take fireworks pictures this April, and I can foresee shooting things different ways.

WDW offers unique opportunities for engaging foreground (or background for that matter) details along with the actual fireworks burst. (e.g., the castle) I can see wanting to take shots that allow for those details to come through without being washed out.

I can think of two ways. First, a relatively fast shutterspeed capturing the foreground object and the light burst. Second, capturing two images first the foreground properly exposed with an empty sky, and second the longer exposure showing the fireworks trails and then combining them in PS.

Any tips or advice?
I just glanced at this thread again and it looks you didn't get any responses, so I'll throw in... if you want a foreground object that's fairly close and not too bright, you can try using flash to illuminate it momentarily while using a slower shutter speed (or bulb) to give you a longer exposure.

It's an interesting idea but I'm not sure how well it'll work in practice, but it sounds like a nice challenge. Good luck! :thumbsup2

Mischa

02-28-2008, 07:55 PM

Thank you for all the tips. I love taking pictures and always am looking for tips.

Great shots by the way!

MassJester

02-28-2008, 10:12 PM

I just glanced at this thread again and it looks you didn't get any responses, so I'll throw in... if you want a foreground object that's fairly close and not too bright, you can try using flash to illuminate it momentarily while using a slower shutter speed (or bulb) to give you a longer exposure.

It's an interesting idea but I'm not sure how well it'll work in practice, but it sounds like a nice challenge. Good luck! :thumbsup2

I believe my camera allows me to set up one or more pre established exposure settings. I would use one to caputre the scene without the fireworks burst, and the other (longer exposure) to capture it with. This way I could mask over hot spots created in the foreground due to the longer exposure.

Maybe that doesn't make sense...

Groucho

02-28-2008, 11:04 PM

I believe my camera allows me to set up one or more pre established exposure settings. I would use one to caputre the scene without the fireworks burst, and the other (longer exposure) to capture it with. This way I could mask over hot spots created in the foreground due to the longer exposure.

Maybe that doesn't make sense...
Well, that's one way, but it's kind of "cheating", but you may not have a choice. :) It's nice to do it "in the camera" if you can, IMHO.

TinksDH

02-29-2008, 07:44 AM

Well, that's one way, but it's kind of "cheating", but you may not have a choice. :) It's nice to do it "in the camera" if you can, IMHO.

I don't know how much that would be "cheating". Sounds like the digital equivilent of a film double exposure, which isn't considered "cheating" in the film world as long as you state it as such. ;)

A common technique used to catch multiple fireworks burst images on the same frame involves putting your DSLR in "bulb" mode (tripod is a must here), holding a black card in front of the lens, removing it every time there is a fireworks burst and then putting it back when the burst is through. The end result is a scene with multiple bursts all on the same frame in the same exposure. I have used this technique at my local July 4th fireworks displays with fairly good results. THIS is done "in camera" and I would think that some folks could view this as cheating even more, as the multiple burst scene never *really* existed in real life. However, the image of the fireworks in the background and the subject in the foreground where you combine them in post-processing DID; you were just making up for the dynamic range limitations of the camera.

But this is a philosophical debate that will never get solved, so I guess we should move on! :)

MassJester

02-29-2008, 10:35 AM

But this is a philosophical debate that will never get solved, so I guess we should move on! :)

My first photographic philosophy issue! Do I get some sort of a badge?

Well, I will try to do it without cheating too. :)

Groucho

03-01-2008, 12:22 AM

Hey, you can do whatever you want. :) I just think it's nice to figure out if a certain effect can be done "in camera", and leave the Photoshop layers for a last resort. You're welcome to disagree with me, I won't be offended. :thumbsup2

AlphaMale

05-11-2008, 12:06 AM

Thanks for all the great tips. I am new to the D-SLR scene and am just learning the ropes. Some of these tips would have been helpful last week before our trip to WDW.

I look forward to reading more tips and having enough posts to submit images to show how I have applied them.

ScrapperKimmyD

05-11-2008, 03:30 PM

Subbing...need to come back after I learn more...

sanilacjack

05-11-2008, 08:46 PM

Subbing in. Great thread Mark!

Kim

tinkerbelt

05-12-2008, 12:29 AM

Great thread! Subbing! :)

Chris and Heidi

06-29-2008, 03:46 PM

Love this thread. Subbing!

MarkBarbieri

06-29-2008, 05:46 PM

I sometimes struggle with wanting to shoot wide (zoomed out) so that I can capture a large area vs wanting to zoom in so that I can see more of my subject. I've found a great compromise in shooting close and wide.

First, I zoom my lens out as wide as it will go. Then, I get really close to the person I want to use as my subject. Now, they are big in the picture, but the wide angle still lets me get a lot of the background behind them.

http://photos.barbierifamily.org/photos/273569697_2skLt-L.jpg

One thing that you have to be careful about is not aiming up or down at them - keep the camera fairly level. If you aim down at them, their head will look large and their feet tiny. If you aim up at them, their body will seem huge and their head will be distant and tiny. That can be fun when you want a weird effect, but it doesn't make for a very natural picture.

If your subject is moving (like the one above), it can be hard to get low and frame your subject. I just run along aiming the picture in their general direction and take lots of pictures. Most are trash, but memory cards are cheap.

lindseywb

07-06-2008, 05:50 PM

Definitely subscribing - just inherited a nikon d50.
thanks for the great tips for Disney as well as general photography!

zachsmomie

07-06-2008, 06:27 PM

subbing in too!

tjl1388

07-06-2008, 09:07 PM

Figured I would add my opinion/experience to the fireworks portion of this discussion.
Sorry point and shoot folk alot of this will not work for you. I haven't had a P&S for years and I avoid my wife's like the plague. sorry...:confused3

Location, Stability, Patience

Location: You will have to sacrifice some of your time to get the best spots and you will have to be "un-Disneylike" sometime to keep them, some people aren't "normal" like us photographers. I try to get in place and protect the legs of my tripod the best I can. Your location depends on your opinion of the best shots. Right side, left side, or center..it is purely opinion based.

Stability is a big concern. The simple pressing of the shutter release , even on a tripod, will cause blur. I use a tripod AND a shutter release button therefore never touching the camera except to change a setting (thats in the next segment). The less you come in contact with your camera the better.

Patience: One of the toughest traits us humans have had to master. This trait must be exhibited in every aspect of shooting fireworks. You will not get every single shot that you want and the only way you will come close is to try and time your shots. If you have the luxury of seeing the particular show before then it is A LOT easier when you know what effect is coming up next. You can't be hurried with your setting when you need to change them on the fly. You have to be calculated and change them gradually as the show goes on. You have to be patient with the people around you and in front of you..more than once have I had a father throw their kid up on his shoulders 6ft in front of me..:mad: . You have to be patient with your shots. In my opinion the art of photography is to get better and better and the shots that you do take are the evidence in a mystery on how to get better.

Most importantly try and enjoy the show and have a good time.

http://tjl1388.smugmug.com/photos/199075548_QAQNg-L-3.jpg

bamata2

08-21-2008, 03:28 PM

I have learned more about photography in the 30 minutes I spent reading this thread than I have ever learned prior. Thanks for all of the great advice.:thumbsup2

Flanigan

08-22-2008, 08:19 AM

Great tips! I'll be making notes for my upcoming Disney trip in a couple of weeks.
Thanks everyone! :thumbsup2

sherry7

08-26-2008, 11:09 PM

Awesome post! :cheer2:

I just ordered my first DSLR earlier today (Sony A300), and I'm sure the great info in this post will help me to become a better photographer.

DisneydaveCT

08-27-2008, 12:05 PM

Take a Few Extras

Nothing annoys me more than spending 5 minutes getting a shot set up and then finding out when I get home that someone blinked during the picture. Aargh! Have you ever tried painting open eyes on a blinker in Photoshop? Not fun.

Remind yourself - it's digital, no one is charging me for shots I don't keep. When you spend time and trouble setting up a shot, take several. Whenever I pose people, I always fire off a quick burst of 3 or more shots.

Throwing mistakes away is much easier than trying to fix shots with flaws. Just make sure that you throw away the extras. No one really wants to look through three shots in a row of the same exact scene.

Mark.

First let me say, I think this is a great thread. I am just now beginning to read all of the suggestions. Some of them I use regularly, some I had forgotten about over time. But as a follow-up to your suggestion about taking multiple shots. Bring plenty of memory. The cost of digital memory has dropped dramatically over the past few years. As a result, I typically bring enough memory to take 150-200 shots a day during my WDW trips. And then I delete those that just don't turn out well, or are duplicates of a better shot.

I also review my memory card each night to begin deleting shots that didn't come out well, thereby clearing up some memory for the balance of the trip.

DisneydaveCT

08-27-2008, 04:15 PM

Start a Collection

Disney fans seem to be big collectors. They collect pins. They collect autographs. How about themed photo collection? Pick a subject that you like and build a collection of photos of that subject. You could try to collect photos of as many different characters as possible. You could collect photos of the entrance signs of all the rides you go on. Oblio seems to be collecting photos of Photo Spot signs.

Shoot the Your Trip

Everyone gets the standard shots of the Castle, the Tree, etc. Those are good to have, but it's just as important to shoot the things that mean something special to you. Take time to shoot the little things that make your trip special.

I always like to take a shot of the pastries that we buy in France. Those are a highlight of our day at Epcot. Is it a great picture? Not really. That doesn't matter. It means something to me and that's what is important.

http://barbieri.smugmug.com/photos/3157143-M.jpg

Besides Disney, one of my other passions is collecting pictures and other artwork where a lighthouse is the subject.

In my living room, I have three 5 x 7 photos in one frame. It is a collection of photos of the three (3) lighthouses at WDW (CBR, YBC, and OKW). It hangs on the wall with some of my other WDW photos.

WDWFigment

09-25-2008, 11:27 AM

Great tips! Sometimes it's easy to forget the basics when you're on vacation, but I think there are many important lessons here.

minidreamin

09-30-2008, 06:36 PM

I've just read this thread and learned some good tips. But I need at least one more tip. I'm going back to WDW in December and I want to take better photos of the castle at night than I did last year. Here's a sample from last year.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2032/2402285156_8397e7d199_b.jpg

More can be seen on my Flickr page. Link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61275578@N00/sets/).

What settings should I try to get a better picture this time?

Thanks!

rkbrannin

10-07-2008, 09:13 PM

Thank you for this post!! I really enjoyed looking through these tips and look forward to seeing more. I have a Nikon D70s and have wore it out on my 2 trips to WDW and am looking to do so again in 40 more days!! One thing I would love to do is get closer pics of the animals at AK. I have tried a telephoto lens that came with my camera package and am unhappy with the results. I was wondering if anyone had any luck getting great close ups of the animals at AK with a telephoto lens and if so, what did you use?

matthew_hull

10-09-2008, 02:31 PM

rkbrannin: My advice is to take photos at the Animal Kingdom Lodge. They have a safari of the lodge savannahs which will get you close to the animals, and is educational and fun as well.

In the AK park, there are numerous animals on Discovery Island which don't really require a long lens. On the walking trails, a long lens is a big help but also not strictly necessary. Depends upon your tastes. As for the Safari ride, my advice is to put the camera away and enjoy the ride. It is too rough to get any truly good shots unless you are very lucky to grab a moment when the truck briefly stops.

You should also be familiar with a photo editor, in order to crop your photos to good effect.

therealgoofy

10-09-2008, 06:37 PM

This thread is full of win.

lovesdumbo

10-09-2008, 07:06 PM

matthew_hull

10-09-2008, 08:18 PM

lovesdumbo

10-09-2008, 08:53 PM

According to AllEars, the Wanyama Safari to which I refer is offered to all AKL guests. I'll bet though that they'll sign up anyone if availabilty exists on the day before. Concierge-level guests pay $50 less (for being so special).

Sorry....it is the sunrise safari at AK that is only open to concierge guests. But they would have to be an AKL guest.

barrie

10-10-2008, 12:23 AM

As for the Safari ride, my advice is to put the camera away and enjoy the ride. It is too rough to get any truly good shots unless you are very lucky to grab a moment when the truck briefly stops.

Sorry Matthew, gotta disagree. It is an awfully rough ride but I have gotten some pretty decent shots on the safari with a fast shutter speed and a high ISO. Of course, I've gotten banged in the head with my camera more than once! :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3008/2900332202_796fd853d1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fodw/2900332202/)

This shot came from the back seat of the vehicle. It was nice to get some unobstructed views by being able to turn around in the back seat but it was WAY too bumpy back there to get very many good shots. The front seat is much less bumpy.

Also, ask to be the first seated in the row. I find that the left side of the vehicle is better for catching more animals. A couple of weeks ago I rode 3 times in a row with no wait. Twice when I asked to be the first one in the row, they gave me the entire seat to myself. That was great! I got photos from both sides of the vehicle.

Dcanoli

10-10-2008, 07:25 AM

Sorry Matthew, gotta disagree. It is an awfully rough ride but I have gotten some pretty decent shots on the safari with a fast shutter speed and a high ISO. Of course, I've gotten banged in the head with my camera more than once! :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3008/2900332202_796fd853d1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fodw/2900332202/)

This shot came from the back seat of the vehicle. It was nice to get some unobstructed views by being able to turn around in the back seat but it was WAY to bumpy back there to get very many good shots. The front seat is much less bumpy.

Also, ask to be the first seated in the row. I find that the left side of the vehicle is better for catching more animals. A couple of weeks ago I rode 3 times in a row with no wait. Twice when I asked to be the first one in the row, they gave me the entire seat to myself. That was great! I got photos from both sides of the vehicle.

Well, look who showed up on the disboards! Barrie, I don't think I've run across you on the boards before.

Great to see you on the photography boards!

Debbie

Michele

10-10-2008, 08:40 AM

You can take photos of the animals at the Animal Kingdom Lodge with taking the safari. Walk right out the back of the lodge and around the pool, some of the animals get pretty close.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n207/moodymom44/100_3318.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n207/moodymom44/WDWMay2007287.jpg

barrie

10-10-2008, 10:37 AM

Well, look who showed up on the disboards! Barrie, I don't think I've run across you on the boards before.

Great to see you on the photography boards!

Debbie

Hi Debbie! I'm here pretty much everyday, I just don't talk much. I find I have more to learn than to share on this board.

Dcanoli

10-10-2008, 10:47 AM

Hi Debbie! I'm here pretty much everyday, I just don't talk much. I find I have more to learn than to share on this board.

Hey there! Me too...but I do like to post pictures here and there...

Just pop in and out all day in between working and doing household jobs! See you around the boards girl!

JoeyD

10-15-2008, 08:06 PM

This is just the help I need so thanks Mark. One tip I like is to use a tripod whenever possible. They are a pain to haul around, but really help.

POP Century at night

Does anyone know Disney has a no Tripod policy? How about mono pods?

Dcanoli

10-15-2008, 08:49 PM

You can use a tripod anywhere you want.

I carried mine everywhere I went for the entire trip a few weeks ago.

PA disfan

10-17-2008, 09:25 AM

Great advise everyone!!!! Keep it commin.

staugielady

02-01-2009, 08:52 PM

Can somebody tell me how to get the soft water effect in night shots? I don't have enough posts to put up an example, but what I mean is the effect where the water looks white? I hope I'm explaining this right... Thank you for your help.

DisneySuiteFreak

02-02-2009, 01:27 AM

amykay9377

02-02-2009, 12:26 PM

You have to use a tripod and slow shutter speed.

I've had luck doing this using the Fireworks setting on my Faux-SLR (Fuji FinePix s700). I captured a waterfall at a local garden with a 3 or 4 second exposure time. Just make sure to use a tripod or other surface (a bench, wall, floor, etc) so that you don't move. Think of 'catching' the water the same way you 'catch' fireworks. :thumbsup2

http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd351/amykay9377/ButterflyRainforest2009_196.jpg

staugielady

02-02-2009, 08:29 PM

Awesome, thank you so much - I'll try it!

Moeluv4u7

03-21-2009, 07:11 AM

I am enjoying this thread- I am definitely no photographer and understand it is not the camera but the photographer/picture-taker that does the work- However these tips will help me to understand what settings I should use to get some very nice shots & I hope it will help me to foster my abilities to get great shots for our family enjoyment-
I appreciate everyone who has contributed tips- They have all been very helpful to me & I am anxious to read more-
Thank-You to Mark & all the Photography Disboarders for being patient with us newbie's :thumbsup2

manning

03-24-2009, 11:15 PM

GOLFDISNEY72

03-29-2009, 05:10 PM

just bought a new camera today for our trip in 2 weeks. Put the battery on the charge and came straight to the boards. The last camera I bought had 3 megapixels. This one has 10. I hope it helps along with the tips I am reading here.

WillowBelle

03-29-2009, 10:50 PM

Can someone answer this question that may be non-answerable :laughing:. Is there a general rule of thumb in manual settings for indoor type photos? I have been studying this board (and another pixel board) like I'm in school, trying to learn how to take better photographs. I have a 50D and will be bringing my 50mm f1.4 lens (that I never realized could be so beneficial and take such good photos until reading all these discussions) to the world. I understand about ISO and have learned that the lower the f stop the more DOF that is created...how to I know what is the best aperature (1/250 <-- isn't that apearature) to set the camera on to get a relatively well lit indoor picture. Take for instance - the lighting in line for BL - what settings would you use? It takes me (what feels like) forEVER to get a propertly exposed picture. Is there a setting that I can put the camera on that will pick that number for me and have it properly exposed?

I have decided to challenge myself on this upcoming trip and not use my flash (at all) unless it is for fill. I really like night time photography with my tripod and shutter release - those are no problem for me, it's the regular lighting (i.e., not bright light, not super dark) that gives me the most trouble.

Sorry if I'm not explaning this so some of you pros can understand :sad1:.

william4192

04-23-2009, 11:33 AM

Any more tips?

Iwant2BAprincess

04-24-2009, 11:37 AM

bdtracey

04-24-2009, 03:54 PM

I know some of you will probably laugh at this question. I have a digital rebel and have not played much with the manual settings. I know how to change my iso but could use some help with the fstop

TIA

I'm hoping that I can help you out with this. I relatively new to the world of dSLR's so I hope the pro's can bear with me and back me up on this.

The best way, I find, to think about my aperature (f stop) is to imagine your eye. The lower the f-stop (the lower the number) the bigger the "pupil" is. Therefore, the lower your f-stop the larger your aperature is thus letting in more light. The more light your camera can let in the faster (1/50 is faster than 1/30) your shutter speed can be. The faster your shutter speed is the less risk you have in having blurry pictures...so to speak.

Further to this, the lower your f-stop the more background blur (bokeh) you will get. For example, if you're shooting at f/1.8 the corners will be more blurred/fuzzy/out of focus than if you're shotting at f/8. At f/1.8 you'll be able to have a much faster shutter speed, lets just say for arguments sake 1/50, as opposed to 1/4 for the same exposure at f/8. This is because at f/1.8 the lens lets in more light.

This is how I think of it, I'd appreciate any clarification as much as the PP...just no flames please :thumbsup2

scoot241

04-27-2009, 04:57 PM

I know some of you will probably laugh at this question. I have a digital rebel and have not played much with the manual settings. I know how to change my iso but could use some help with the fstop

TIA

You can do two things; either put the camera in Av (aperture priority) mode where you control the aperture and the camera calculates the rest, or put the camera in M mode and control the aperture by holding down the exposure compensation button and turning the wheel (this is how it works on the XSi). If you turn the wheel without holding down the button, it will change the shutter speed.

MermaidMom

04-29-2009, 11:20 AM

Mark B.- I've been inspired by your Disney photos (& other photos) for years! I also got a smugmug site because I enjoyed looking around yours!

I'd also like to add the tip that you should never underestimate the power of your editing software to improve your pictures once you get home. I am often too impatient to fiddle with all the settings on my camera or things are just moving too quickly to set it just right. I use Photoshop Elements and it's saved my bad shots time and again. It is definitely easier and faster to get it right the first time but that doesn't always work out. For an investment of less than $80, you can have this magic tool in your bag. :thumbsup2

This was a very so-so night shot of the carousel but with a little editing, I really love the glow of the lights. (This was with my somewhat crappy point & shoot cam, not my DSLR)
http://bonderosa.smugmug.com/photos/376664817_fi7mp-M.jpg

Another great tip that people miss is that you don't always have to stick your subject with the sun blaring in their face. You don't want to shoot directly into the sun but if you can get it somewhat to the side the light from behind really makes things glow nicely, especially in the morning sun. It's great for kids with cute hair - it really frames them with that special glow. Again, a shot from our last vacation without a DSLR and could have been much, much better but still a nice morning glow feel to the picture.
http://bonderosa.smugmug.com/photos/376661072_Lj7Up-M.jpg

THANKS to everyone for this great thread & tips!

jpmom97

05-01-2009, 01:04 PM

Thanks for all the tips! I need to get a notebook for all of it.

lizet313

06-04-2009, 10:52 AM

Thanks for all the tips! I need to get a notebook for all of it.

That is a great idea:thumbsup2

racreel

07-23-2009, 03:11 PM

Another great tip that people miss is that you don't always have to stick your subject with the sun blaring in their face. You don't want to shoot directly into the sun but if you can get it somewhat to the side the light from behind really makes things glow nicely, especially in the morning sun. It's great for kids with cute hair - it really frames them with that special glow. Again, a shot from our last vacation without a DSLR and could have been much, much better but still a nice morning glow feel to the picture.
http://bonderosa.smugmug.com/photos/376661072_Lj7Up-M.jpg

THANKS to everyone for this great thread & tips!

A bit of fill flash can also be used in situations like this to add a little light to the people while still getting that glow that you want.

Cory_D

07-23-2009, 04:01 PM

Hey guys, I'm new here, but have been lurking around for quite some time. After reading this excellent thread, I thought I would come in and share the fireworks technique that was taught to me. So here it is.

The Required equipment:
DSLR
Shutter Release cord
Tripod

The Technique:
Set the camera to Manual setting
Set the focus to manual focus
Set the depth of field to infinite
Set the shutter speed to Bulb
Set the aperture to F/11 or higher
Perhaps adjust the exposure bias up or down one step

I would also study the fireworks shows at WDW on Youtube. It makes it much easier to learn when the one burst you really want to capture is coming up. I haven't been to WDW since I learned how to shoot fireworks, but here's one of my shots from NJ just to show my technique in action.

edit: Since I need 10 posts to post links, just click the link in my sig to go to my Flickr page. All my fireworks shots are there.

Sewfun

07-23-2009, 04:49 PM

stitch1986

09-06-2009, 04:53 AM

I was wondering what tripod would be the best to get for travelling and easy to setup ? and that is sterdy for a d40 any suggestions? and I love all these tips I will try my best to use them for my trip in oct :)

MouseTriper

09-07-2009, 02:03 AM

Okay really loving all these tips...!!!! Thanks!!!

Finiamh

09-15-2009, 05:59 PM

Sorry....it is the sunrise safari at AK that is only open to concierge guests. But they would have to be an AKL guest.

Just to help in more detail for all:

There is a Sunrise Safari for Concierge guests only, and there is the Wanyama Safari for all AKL guests which starts at dusk and includes a meal at the end. AKL concierge guests do get a discount on the Wanyama Safari.

:)

Believing is Seeing.

10-14-2009, 12:58 AM

*BUMP* Are there anymore tips out there? I've learned so much from this board. Thank you so much. All the apeture, ISO, etc. lingo still confuses me because I'm still saving up to buy a dSLR. The Nikon D3000 has a guide inside of it to help along, I think I'll be buying that one. :) I can save the money I would have spent on another higher megapixel camera towards a tripod, memory, a case, and everything else. Don't you think so?

My other question is, how does disney feel about photographers like us? Say I wanted a picture of an awesome angle inside of the Prime Time Cafe at MGM, would I ask the hostess to do so or just do it? I'm kinda shy about that kind of stuff, I don't want to intrude.. How would I go about that?

YesDear

10-14-2009, 06:40 AM

I would say unless you wanted them to clear the restaurant, make guests move, or rearrange furniture, most castmembers are very willing to let you take pictures.

hollisterluva92

02-06-2010, 10:35 AM

KramBerries

02-06-2010, 10:41 AM

So...I just got an Olympus E-400 for christmas. Anyone have any experience with this camera? I've been trying to put together a little cheat sheet for myself to take to the parks so that I know what kind of exposure and shutter speeds and others to use. Thanks!

I don't know much about the E-400. I think you'll get a better response posting your question in a new thread rather than at the end of this thread.

hollisterluva92

02-06-2010, 11:13 AM

thanks :)

MomtoEmIs&Ow

04-24-2010, 11:46 PM

What a great thread! Thanks for all the tips!

Janell

05-01-2010, 07:58 PM

Great tips. Thank you.

CC&M

06-07-2010, 12:46 PM

rtphokie

06-18-2010, 07:33 AM

adidas97

07-15-2010, 01:42 PM

I have not read all the post so if this is a repeat question I am sorry. What are some suggestions for taking pictures of fireworks? I have a Nikon D60 and I am currebtly learning to take pictures more in maunual mode.
Thanks, I will be spending time read all the post later on.

adidas97

07-15-2010, 01:43 PM

I have not read all the post so if this is a repeat question I am sorry. What are some suggestions for taking pictures of fireworks? I have a Nikon D60 and I am currently learning to take pictures more in maunual mode.
Thanks, I will be spending time read all the post later on.

pgowder

07-15-2010, 02:19 PM

adidas97

07-15-2010, 09:14 PM

Thanks for the link. i will be trying this out in August.

Soopafly

07-16-2010, 04:47 AM

I hope you all don't mind a point-and-shoot question...

Any advice on getting better pictures of night time parades with a point-and-shoot? My camera doesn't have a "sports" mode, so I'm not sure how to handle the moving objects/people in the darkness...

Gathering light (to prevent a dark photo) and stopping the action (to prevent blur) are a trade off. It's hard with a P&S camera because changing to a lens with better light gathering capabilities is probably not possible. Upping the sensitivity of the digital sensor is a possibility but that has its trade offs as well (image quality).

What camera do you have? We could look it up and give some more specific ideas.

I also have a point and shoot camera that we bought especially for our trip in September-October, and I am really worried that I am going to get it all wrong and the shots of spectro and fireworks will be really poor. Just like the above poster, I would welcome and appreciate any and all help you might be able to give. I don't trust the 'heart' setting on this thing but I do usually use auto mode for things and they come out very well, just highly doubt this will apply to night shots. I have a Canon Powershot SX120 IS -

http://www.photographyblog.com/review/canon_powershot_sx120_is_review/

Many Thanks in advance

1tufgt

07-16-2010, 09:05 AM

This is a great thread and it's been a joy reading all the tips. Can't wait to test this out on our trip.

CC&M

07-16-2010, 11:20 AM

I also have a point and shoot camera that we bought especially for our trip in September-October, and I am really worried that I am going to get it all wrong and the shots of spectro and fireworks will be really poor. Just like the above poster, I would welcome and appreciate any and all help you might be able to give. I don't trust the 'heart' setting on this thing but I do usually use auto mode for things and they come out very well, just highly doubt this will apply to night shots. I have a Canon Powershot SX120 IS -

http://www.photographyblog.com/review/canon_powershot_sx120_is_review/

Many Thanks in advance

Thanks for reminding me about this thread...life has gotten in the way again :)

I have a Canon SD870 IS and a Lumix DMC-TZ3...any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks for the offer to help!

bdoyledimou

07-16-2010, 12:46 PM

We just picked up a Nikon Coolpix P100
It has a a lot of cool features and this thread will definitely provide some great tips!

TK Brown

07-18-2010, 09:44 AM

Great post! Cant wait to try some of these tips out on my new D5000.

minneapolismickey

08-01-2010, 09:28 AM

Thanks for this great site. I have disney pictures that total 10's of thousands, but I am always trying to improve on my amateur techniques.

mom2rtk

08-01-2010, 10:18 AM

I also have a point and shoot camera that we bought especially for our trip in September-October, and I am really worried that I am going to get it all wrong and the shots of spectro and fireworks will be really poor. Just like the above poster, I would welcome and appreciate any and all help you might be able to give. I don't trust the 'heart' setting on this thing but I do usually use auto mode for things and they come out very well, just highly doubt this will apply to night shots. I have a Canon Powershot SX120 IS -

http://www.photographyblog.com/review/canon_powershot_sx120_is_review/

Many Thanks in advance

Just so you know.... you'll be shooting the Main Street Electrical Parade now. It has been extended for a while.

If you want fireworks pictures, you're going to need to bring your tripod.

adidas97

08-17-2010, 02:23 PM

Does any one have a quick photo tip guide. Something small like one page that just gives so basic tips like pictures at night, f/stop, etc. I will be leaving in two days, so sorry for the short notice.

ChiSoxKeith

08-17-2010, 02:30 PM

Read the night time / fireworks / parades posts over at wdwphotography.com

-Hope-

09-01-2010, 02:52 PM

Pineapple Whip

09-02-2010, 07:53 PM

What a great thread! :goodvibes

I'm wondering what some of you use as your 'walking around' settings. Do you switch from manual to another mode so your always ready to capture an unexpected moment? Or have you found a 'magic' setting that keeps your camera ready for those moments when you're more focused on your vacation than on pictures but want to be ready just in case.

Walking around, I use the P Program mode on continuous (no continuous AF). If I get a surprise shot to take, I whip up the camera, get an auto-focus on the first shot, get myself still, and take a burst of shots. Here the camera is somewhat automatic, but you can tweak a couple of settings to your taste.

Some shots you just have to cross your fingers on because you won't have time to set up manual settings. For me, Auto and P seem to work best for surprise shots. I usually burst, correct position, burst, correct, burst as if I were taking 3 single shots. It gives me around 9 well placed photos to choose the best of later on my computer. How often does a pic look great on the camera LCD, and blurry at home? This increases your odds of a good shot.

-Hope-

09-02-2010, 09:04 PM

Walking around, I use the P Program mode on continuous (no continuous AF). If I get a surprise shot to take, I whip up the camera, get an auto-focus on the first shot, get myself still, and take a burst of shots. Here the camera is somewhat automatic, but you can tweak a couple of settings to your taste.

Some shots you just have to cross your fingers on because you won't have time to set up manual settings. For me, Auto and P seem to work best for surprise shots. I usually burst, correct position, burst, correct, burst as if I were taking 3 single shots. It gives me around 9 well placed photos to choose the best of later on my computer. How often does a pic look great on the camera LCD, and blurry at home? This increases your odds of a good shot.

I rarely like the quality of my shots on auto so I just took a few shots in my living room to compare and the program mode is much better! Thank you!

Soopafly

09-03-2010, 04:52 AM

Just so you know.... you'll be shooting the Main Street Electrical Parade now. It has been extended for a while.

If you want fireworks pictures, you're going to need to bring your tripod.

Haven't checked this thread for a while sorry! I recently purchased a gorilla pod so I am hoping to just stake out a good spot. We are there for 14 nights so I think I am going to go in on the first few tries and experiment with what works and go from there. I am going to read up a little bit first but I don't have high expectations with this point and shoot, I will get an SLR camera one day though :goodvibes

matt1902

09-03-2010, 07:25 AM

Hi all

First time on this part of the site so apologise if this questino has already been answered.

There are lots of fantastic photos on this sitem, and being a budding photographer I can clearly see that most of them have been taken on DSLRs. My question is though, if you take your SLR into the parks to get those great photos, where do you put it when you are on rides? The only reason I ask is because at theme parks here in the UK I wouldnt dream of leaving my camera by the side of the ride whilst I am on it.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated

adidas97

09-03-2010, 09:16 AM

Hi all... where do you put it when you are on rides?

I bought a backpack/camera bag. Top part is compartment for perosnal stuff, bottom well insulated camera bag, Tamrac. it fit my Nikon D60, a point and shoot, video camera and two lenses. Bought for around $80 at Ritz Camera. Most rides have spot to put the bag in while riding. (Mesh compartment) If I am riding Splash Mountain, usually I leave with a trusted person, wife/ inlaws, etc. when i ride. This trip i was able to bring the camera bag on almost everyride, except the thrill rides like rollercoasters.

adidas97

09-04-2010, 03:20 PM

how do tou upload pictures on these threads?

Pineapple Whip

09-04-2010, 03:55 PM

how do tou upload pictures on these threads?

Most common, upload to Photobucket and post links to the photos here.

MOmousefan

03-15-2011, 10:36 AM

SrisonS

03-15-2011, 12:09 PM

This is my favorite thread as I am learning how to take better pictures. One question: Are you shooting in RAW while taking these shots? The slower interval between shots seems like you might miss a good opportunity on occasions.

If you're talking about holding down the shutter release while in Continuous Mode, most cameras still shoot fairly quickly to where you won't miss out on something. But if you're trying to go too long during a stretch, the buffer might get too full, and the camera will hang up some. But mostly, you should be alright. And if you're doing quick single shots, you won't have any problems.

Also, getting a faster memory card will help for those Continuous shots.

weilkevin

09-04-2011, 07:42 PM

DisneyFreak06

09-04-2011, 08:39 PM

Hey all,
My girlfriend and I are leaving in 9 days for Disney and just wanted to revive this thread in hopes of some last minute tips!

I'll be bringing my Olympus XZ-1 w/ a 16gb memory card, an extra battery, and an SLR style gorillaPod.

-General tips would be awesome!!(I did read the entire thread so no need to repeat)
-I'm also wondering about how Disney feels about photos/videos on rides. Is it allowed? What about in shops, restaurants, queues, shows, etc...

Thanks all!

Here's a question I can answer!

Most rides are allowed, some are just no flash. Others, they don't mention it at all. I've taken pictures in restaurants, queues, shows, outside, inside etc. Most of WDW is very accepting of photography. In fact there are threads here on the Dis of pictures of restaurants (and food), stores in the parks, stores in the hotels, and there are many ride and show pictures as well. Good luck and have fun!

weilkevin

09-04-2011, 08:53 PM

Sewfun

09-04-2011, 11:29 PM

That sounds perfect! Thanks!

I thought of another question...

This will be my first time carrying something other than a pocketable point and shoot. Do you all find it somewhat inconvenient to carry your cameras or is it fairly easy to tote it around on rides? I have a strap and small bag to store everything. I'm just a little worried it might end up being a hassle.

I am going to WDW Friday for the Night of Joy. This will be my first trip with a RapidStrap and I am eager to see how it works with my Sony A580. It has pockets for extra batteries and cards. I like how the camera hangs so that it is in the small of my back and protected when I carry it. I will post a comment about it when I get back on the 9th. I have had trips where I carried just the camera itself because of the heat, and it wasn't bad. I just couldn't change lens from my 18-200mm lens to my 50mm prime for the dark rides. I did ok on the rides without a bag for my camera, but did make sure I held it to try to protect it as much as I could. On my last trip for my birthday in July, I took a waterproof point and shoot and left my Sony at home. I much prefer having my Sony!! I will carry a plastic bag in my pocket to protect it on water rides, etc. I like the flexibility of my DSLR.

Sewfun

09-04-2011, 11:35 PM

Hey all,
My girlfriend and I are leaving in 9 days for Disney and just wanted to revive this thread in hopes of some last minute tips!

I'll be bringing my Olympus XZ-1 w/ a 16gb memory card, an extra battery, and an SLR style gorillaPod.

-General tips would be awesome!!(I did read the entire thread so no need to repeat)
-I'm also wondering about how Disney feels about photos/videos on rides. Is it allowed? What about in shops, restaurants, queues, shows, etc...

Thanks all!

If the ride states no flash photography, I don't do it. I did get yelled at over the loudspeaker on Dinosaur for having my DSLR out and I was NOT taking flash pictures. If the ride states no photography, I follow their rules. I have an alien from Toy Story that I take with me and I take pictures of my LGM everywhere. Most castmembers and guests are so cool with this, and it makes for great pictures too. I have a picture of my LGM on the front door of the haunted mansion at Disneyland and the castmember helped me get it. They are great about photos as long as you respect their requests regarding flash/no flash (POTC and Haunted Mansion) or NO pictures (Monster's Inc Laugh Floor). They will let you know if you are not following the rules.

weilkevin

09-05-2011, 12:07 PM

Luckily(or unfortunately, depending on who you ask :confused3), my camera has a nice non-interchangable lens on it, so I won't have to worry about changing lenses or carrying extras.

I'll definitely be bringing along some plastic bags though. Do you find that they work as well as you would hope? I'm not so worried about rides being a problem but the flash rain storms scare me. Any suggestions other than a plastic bag? I know I can buy a $300 waterproof enclosure but thats going a bit too far haha.

I did get yelled at over the loudspeaker on Dinosaur for having my DSLR out and I was NOT taking flash pictures.

Thats crazy! I mean I'm not too surprised that you can't take pictures but for them to interrupt the experience by announcing something over the loudspeaker seems a little out of character for Disney. Its nice to know that other than that, the cast seems accepting as long as your respectful. Thanks for the tips!

Sewfun

09-05-2011, 12:27 PM

Luckily(or unfortunately, depending on who you ask :confused3), my camera has a nice non-interchangable lens on it, so I won't have to worry about changing lenses or carrying extras.

I'll definitely be bringing along some plastic bags though. Do you find that they work as well as you would hope? I'm not so worried about rides being a problem but the flash rain storms scare me. Any suggestions other than a plastic bag? I know I can buy a $300 waterproof enclosure but thats going a bit too far haha.

Thats crazy! I mean I'm not too surprised that you can't take pictures but for them to interrupt the experience by announcing something over the loudspeaker seems a little out of character for Disney. Its nice to know that other than that, the cast seems accepting as long as your respectful. Thanks for the tips!

I was a new friend I had met there and we were loving the ride when "PUT THAT CAMERA DOWN!" shouted over the loudspeaker. I looked at Glenn and said "Did I just get yelled at?" He started laughing and said yes. I was taking pictures but not flash. The spiel at the beginning of the ride said no flash pictures. She must have been having a bad day.

Sewfun

09-05-2011, 12:33 PM

Luckily(or unfortunately, depending on who you ask :confused3), my camera has a nice non-interchangable lens on it, so I won't have to worry about changing lenses or carrying extras.

I'll definitely be bringing along some plastic bags though. Do you find that they work as well as you would hope? I'm not so worried about rides being a problem but the flash rain storms scare me. Any suggestions other than a plastic bag? I know I can buy a $300 waterproof enclosure but thats going a bit too far haha.

I haven't broke down yet to buy a waterproof enclosure for my Sony. I have a waterproof P&S that I use for vidoe or photos on water rides. I think I am going to take a gallon ziplock bag for my camera this time, as I am not going to haul my camera backpack into the parks this time of year. I did it in May and was drenched. I think it will work well, as those are pretty secure. I would not go on Kali River Rapids though, just because right now I can't afford to replace my equipment. I do have an extended warranty that protects against water damage but honestly it isn't worth the risk to me.

MarkBarbieri

09-05-2011, 12:53 PM

Sewfun

09-05-2011, 01:03 PM

I took some shots on Dinosaur once. I don't remember anyone complaining. I'm not sure why I bothered. It was very dark, so the shots were pretty useless. On top of that, the ride is so jerky that I didn't dare put the camera to my face. I almost got a black eye when I was on the Safari ride with a 1D and a 70-200 f/2.8.

Mark, I agree with the ride and bothering to take pictures. I was just surprised at how the castmember handled it. I have never been yelled at like that in a Disney park. They are usually much better at letting you know when you are doing something wrong. I hate it when people take flash pictures in POTC because it does ruin the ride for others. I hope it was just the person was having a bad day. Nobody said a word to me when I got off the ride.

weilkevin

09-05-2011, 01:38 PM

I'll probably bring a few zippered gallon bags and just double up on them just to be safe.

Speaking of the Safari. I read some people just say to take in the sites and forget the camera. How do you guys feel about this? I got a really nice video of the entire ride a few years ago and it wasn't distracting at all. I work with animals every day at my job so I'm extremely interested in getting some good shots. Any thoughts?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone is familiar with the adapter tubes and zoom add-ons but I know my camera is compatible with the TCON-17(I believe it adds 1.7x zoom) zoom add-on with an adapter tube. I've been considering getting it for awhile but the size seems to be fairly prohibitive. Does anyone have any advice about this?

I can't add pictures or links but if you search TCON-17X you can find a picture of the tube and lens add-on. SO BIG!

Thanks all!

Gina421

11-25-2011, 10:53 PM

It's been great reading all these tips! We are heading to DL next week and I'm bringing along my canon rebel xsi! Excited to take some "new" shots!

mrodgers

12-03-2011, 11:10 AM

I haven't read the whole thread yet. I'm on page 4, but I notice something on this board all the time which I don't ever see in regular photography forums....

This is a post processing tip. Straighten your photos. I quickly scrolled through all the rest of these pages and I counted 19 photos of the ones that are still available for display that the scene is falling out of the photo because either the horizon line is slanted down or light poles or other vertical lines are leaning.

This is the very first thing I notice of a photo that is bad. It just pops out drastically for me and I can not appreciate viewing the photo at that point. Every photo that pops out at me as "Wow, great shot" I look at again and easily notice that the horizon is level or vertical lines are vertical.

Unless it is for artistic merit, which one of the photos in this thread of a wide angle shot of a boy running from the surf it does look good and has artistic merit from it, the horizon and vertical lines should be level.

As this is named "Photography Board" and not "Vacation Snapshooter's Board" and with the amount of folks constantly posting that they want a dSLR for better photos, or ask about the quality of pictures, or what camera takes the best quality, it must be said again that great photos come from the photographer and not the camera. In the old days of film, the photos had to be processed. In today's digital world, people don't think they do any more. Post processing is a term that I don't like now in the digital world. Post processing sounds like editing and changing a photo to something different and I think many people do think that way. I like to think of it as "digital developing."

Whether you shoot a point and shoot or a dSLR, in JPEG or in RAW, every photo must still be "developed". First thing I look at is whether my photo is level. It is difficult to do looking through the viewfinder (or on an LCD screen) as the view is quite small. I check to see that the horizon is level or vertical lines are vertical immediately upon looking at the image on the computer after uploading from the camera/card.

Other subtle "development" corrections need to be done, yes even with the "I get it right in the camera" crowd, but this tip is about leveling your photo. I didn't count the overall number of photos in this thread, but as I said, I counted 19 of them that were not level which is a pretty high percentage of the overall count.